Guide Rail for Circular Saw and Router

[Chems]

I need a guide rail, but I'm against buying what essentially is a grooved track.

I started off with some 1.5m MDF, cut around 6 inches or so wide. The smaller piece will be the runner and the larger bit the track:


I started off by grooving the track:


Then the runner. Ive made one longer one then cut a smaller section that will be for my router. The marks of what look like glue are just wax I got on there accidentally.



Then just 2 holes in the base of the saw and 2 in the runner making sure they are well countersunk and together with some bolts. .


Its important you make it so that the when your done the blade is actually over the MDF, this means your first cut with the system will give you the exact edge you will get, as you can see in this shot. I can't do that yet as I'm waiting for my new freud blade to turn up and want it accurate for that blade.

After thats done turn the track over and run a very shallow dovetail down the board in the centre.


Once that is done you need to make to dovetail runners like this.


Then take the top off your aldi quick clamps as you will see in the background, glue 2 bits of MDF either side and drill a hole for the bolt this will secure these to the top of the clamps. And then there you go a guide rail system. I haven't done this last step but I will tomorrow and get pictures.

Hope this saves some people some money, I know it will save me a lot of time and money.

 

[OPJ]

I like your way of thinking with this, Chems. :wink: I made a simpler version of something fairly similar earlier this year but, there's nothing on my jig to stop the saw from wandering away from the jig (you appear to have it sussed).

The only downside I can see is that you are restricting the available depth of cut. Assuming you're only going to use it with sheet materials though, you should be fine.

I look forward to seeing how the clamps fit on there. Will you be making a separate one for the router or can you use the other side of the same jig?

 

[mailee]

I too made a simple version of this for my circular saw and the router. To stop it moving around as I found I couldn't always use clamps on it I placed some non slip tape to the underside, it works great and with just the weight of the saw/router it doesn't slip even on worktop! Got the non slip tape from Lidl.

 

[Chems]

Thanks OPJ, its specifically for some 18mm stuff and sheet material I'm only losing a few cm of cut so it should be ok as the saw has a full plunge of 64mm.

I have an identical carriage thats a little shorter that I will use for my smaller router thats basically the off cut from the saws runner.

I'm off out in a mo to do the clamps, they will need a block putting on the lower jaw to close the gap otherwise I wont be able to clamp thin material, other than that though should work fine. I'll also get some no slip tape and put it on there, thanks for the tip maliee.

 

[wizer]

Very clever. You can't beat my EZ rails for weight, expandability, minimal loss of depth and ease of clamping. Not to mention 0 Chip-out on both sides of the cuts.

 

[Chems]

I looked at buying them, but it would mean I'd have to buy a new CS and its starting to get very expensive. I tell you what wizer, when mine is finished and has a freud blade in, we will both do a cut with our rail systems and see what the difference is? I'd love to see how close to a good rail system I've gotten. Also how does the EZ system insure a splinter free cut on both sides? Obviously the rail side is supported by the rail, what about the offside of the blade?

Ive just thought of how to make an even better cut. I will attach another double thickness of MDF to the base of the circular saw thats overhanging the rail, this will mean that both sides of the cut will be supported and should help with the splinter free-ness.

 

[wizer]

It's a shame your not local, I would have been more than willing to give you a demo.

WRT chip free on both sides. Think about how a Zero Clearance insert works on a TS. You need to cover the blade on both sides.

 

[wizer]

actually, what you should have done is bought the EZ Smart Base and then built your rail around that. However, the light weigh aluminium and the fact you can extend it to as long or short as you like makes the whole system so attractive.

 

[Chems]

Yes I see, I will try and do something similar. Need to order up a freud blade and I'm ready to go.

 

[OPJ]

Another thoughts, Chems... With the router, you'll only be able to use it with the same diameter cutter, won't you?

 

[Chems]

I think with the router I wont be able to use it as the edge been exactly where it will cut. It will have to be an offset edge. I have a table now so really its for the CS but it would be good for inlay work and such if I ever dare to try.

I've made up a zero clearance type thing from the scraps of MDF to go over the blade. Soon as I get a new blade I will be ready to go.

 

[Jake]

Interesting picture - I've been asking since Dino first posted about this as to how it doesn't screw up the guarding, and several devotees have sworn blind it doesn't - you can see there that it does.

 

[wizer]

yes I'm not going to argue there, you do loose some of the guarding from the front of the blade. I'm not sure how dangerous this really is? The fact it's never entered my mind probably says the risks involved are minimal.

 

[wizer]

You can see here with the AC2 (The antichip insert used on the guide rails) that the amount of exposed blade is not a hug amount.

 

[Green]

The fact it's never entered my mind probably says the risks involved are minimal.

...says the man who routed his finger to bits :lol:

Chems, cool idea. I am going to steal it.

Copying the festool anti-chip method looks easiest to make and safer to.

 

[Tom K]

The fact it's never entered my mind probably says the risks involved are minimal.

...says the man who routed his finger to bits :lol:

:lol: Funny but a little harsh :lol: Saw accidents certainly give new meaning to the old adage Measure once cut twice.

Regards Tom

 

[Green]

no offence intended...

Getting back on track - Looking at the pictures Wizer posted, the Eureka AC-1 anti-chip thingy doesn't need to hold the guard open quite so much, surely it only needs to go as far back as the gullets of the blade or even just the the back edge of the teeth?

 

[wizer]

yes the blade is only exposed a tiny bit more than it normally is with a circular saw. I've not seen the festool guard in action, does that cover the blade in action? Personally, through weight alone, I'd never buid my own saw rails.

 

[Tom K]

Funny thing circular saws you cant cut anything until you expose the blade a bit. I will admit they scare the pants off me at times but the
Murricans seem to chuck them about in the way we treat a drill or cordless screwdriver and never come a cropper why is that?
Or is it just they don't show the video that ends with bloody stumps :?

 

[Chems]

I think people reley to much on guards etc, the real thing thats going to keep you safe is common sense. At the end of the day the only difference between my rail and a bought rail is one is made of metal. The design principles are all identical. If your sawing wood some of the blade needs to be exposed, I for one will be keeping both hands above the saw and my legs away from the bottom!