Forming chisel side bevels.

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Might I trouble you for a quick recap as this thread seems to have become rather technical.

What are the benefits of a chisel side bevel.

If I wish to file one onto an old chisel where in the UK would be an appropriate and a reasonably priced place to purchase a new file for such a purpose.

Thanks

Ewan

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
Hi Ewan;

Bevel edge chisels

the edges have been ground down so that they can be worked into the corners and joints with acute angles.
 
Most of which can be done with very little work - :D
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The task of modifying the firmer chisels to bevel edge chisels has been completed. After the initial annealing process, the steel maintained more than adequate hardness not to proceed further with later heat treatment. (Thanks to John C. for that advise.) Likewise to Vincent Tai. on his advise to stick to flat surface sanding when flattening the full length of backs. ( 120, 220, and finished on 400g). The front bevels were honed up to 13000g.

Stewie;



 
E-wan":1gpeb2wb said:
What are the benefits of a chisel side bevel.

If I wish to file one onto an old chisel where in the UK would be an appropriate and a reasonably priced place to purchase a new file for such a purpose.

Thanks

Ewan

If you need to chisel into an acute corner (dovetailing is an obvious example) then you need a bevel edged chisel or you'll bruise the corners and leave a small but unsightly gap. Yes, on more open dovetails you could go in at angle with a firmer chisel (a firmer chisel is one without a bevel edge), but even that won't work with needle or London Pattern dovetails like these,
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You should be aware that even bevel edged chisels don't come to a complete knife edge, if they did you'd cut your fingers using them. The residual flat section on the edges of a bevel edged chisel is called the "land", most traditional bevel edged chisels still have a thicker land than I prefer for dovetailing.

Ashley Iles make some superb dovetailing chisels with a unique curved profile, these have virtually no land but still don't slice up your fingers when you use them,

https://www.classichandtools.com/acatal ... isels.html

Blue Spruce also make chisels with almost no land, but besides being shockingly expensive they require either a very deft touch or a good supply of sticking plasters!

https://www.classichandtools.com/acatal ... isels.html

Many cabinet makers prefer 3/16" and 5/16" chisels for dovetailing as opposed to 1/4" and 3/8", before we became deluged with so much choice they'd generally hunt around for used examples in these two sizes and then grind off the land. Despite looking at Stewie's superb work I wouldn't recommend following his example unless you've a fair amount of experience under your belt. In fact until you're a bit further along your woodworking career I wouldn't worry too much about one chisel versus another. Get a cheap set from Aldi, or perhaps a few Bahco chisels like these,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BAHCO-6-Piec ... SwO~tZymv7

Or some Narex chisels like these,

https://www.workshopheaven.com/narex-ch ... -of-6.html

And they'll be more than adequate for any job you're likely to undertake in the next few years.
 

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Just to add a little to Custard's comprehensive post above, most modern chisels of the sort sold in the big DIY sheds are expected to be used for site carpentry and joinery, and perhaps not cosseted as much as some tools. They are therefore designed and manufactured with the possibility that that they may be abused as much as used; perhaps used for levering or wedging parts apart. Consequently, they tend to be quite strongly built, and maybe tempered a little on the soft side so as to be tough enough to stand the levering. They usually have a fairly strong cross-sectional shape, too - more like an old-fashioned firmer chisel, but with the corners ground off a bit. Some people refer to these as 'bevel-edged firmers'.

Perfectly capable chisels for their intended use, and arguably everyone should have a few for rough jobs and heavy chopping. The Bahco chisels Custard linked to fall into that category, as do current Marples branded offerings.

For finer cabinetmaking and some joiner's bench work, chisels with thinner cross-section blades tempered a little harder (so they tend to hold an edge a bit longer) are preferred by many because they tend to be lighter. They tend to have much finer lands, too, so can access tighter spaces and clean up corners more precisely. Some specialty makers do still produce such chisels, usually in small volumes and at quite a high price. Ashley Iles mark 2 bevel-edged chisels are probably the best on the market for their price in this bracket, but there are others such as Lie-Nielsen and Stanley Sweetheart, and a fair slew of niche makers.

Looking at older chisels - back in days when much more hand-work was done, and it was commercially viable for manufacturers to supply chisels to satisfy every requirement - and you see this reflected in the designs. Most carpenters and joiners preferred stronger 'firmer' chisels - rectangular cross-section blades, strong necks - whilst cabinet makers preferred finer, lighter bevel-edged chisels. For really heavy work, registered firmers were available - very thick blades, very strong necks, and often double-hooped handles. There were also a few specials, such as the very long, thin paring chisels favoured by patternmakers. Good older chisels can be a very good investment, but like all second hand tools, there are some duds about, too, and even the best will need a wee bit of fettling to perform at their full potential.
 
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