Moderators: Random Orbital Bob, nev, CHJ, Noel, Charley

By Sad Pangolin
Hi ---
Given limited budget I've got a Metabo TKHS 315 C tablesaw. It's got a somewhat substantial weight (60kg) but all in all it's really floppy. The sawtable without extensions is just under 60cm wide, 80cm deep; then short T-track rails to front and left.

As my first planned project was to build a workbench, this is now somewhat in disarray. I've seen various youtube projects of fixing tablesaws into benches, so I think that's the best way to go; and I can see how a 'contractor' type saw will do that (like a DeWalt, flat at bottom). However the Metabo is a set of legs, with a steel top over that (folded an inch around the edges), and then the whole saw hangs off that.

For starters, the top is far less flat than I'd planned/hoped, together with the wobbliness. That top is 1.8mm thick steel, with an inch of overhanging lip to which the ( 2.5degrees splayed outward) legs are connected. You can google for photos or I can photograph any part of it that would matter.

I want a 122x180cm workbench roughly, and 90cm tall; it's a compromise over available space etc as usual. I'm looking for any inspiration on how to proceed!

My current thinking is:
    Fixing 12mm hardwood ply over the top, sacrificing 12 out of 85mm depth-of-cut, for a one-piece large surface. My shop floor is rather flat, so I can do this on the ground with the saw upside down, legs sticking up.

    Then removing the stanchions, loosening the legs, and boxing in with ply (say 888mm tall so it's to 900mm working height) until the legs are vertical not splayed, then screwing all tight (probably bending the lip of the steel top, where the legs are fixed)

    Then fit 18mm (or thicker?) ply (or MDF?) on top of previous ply, minus a rectangular hole (just over 80x60cm) to fit the boxed-in saw. Then maybe a torsion box construction, and legs made from 2x4s in the way of Steven Ramsey's 'woodworking for mere mortals' bench.

Is this a terrible plan? Is there an obviously better plan? Would it be more sensible without the legs, straightup joining ply to the top's folded lip?

There are further complications, like this boxing-in will overheat the motor (would almost touch one of the walls); and swung to 45degrees the body sticks out substantially past the top's footprint. But both these can be solved by cutting holes in two the two long sides of the 'boxing in' box.

I thought of removing legs and top; but the structure by which the saw is connected to the steel top is very close to the swinging part of the tilting mechanism etc; and not many places to fix onto.

The other main question is where to fit the saw into the bench: I was going for the blade being 40cm from the left short edge --- then with the bench against one wall, the blade lines up with the left edge of my door and I can feed 2m40 x 60cm long stock into my shed with 2m40 outfeed. [see sketch] And moving the bench away from that wall I can line up the blade anywhere within the door's width. Or does that make no sense, is only half the width sensible (flip workpiece over) so blade can be 70cm not 40cm away? Because most arrangements I've seen have the saw at the narrow end of the (typically 4ftx8ft / sheet-sized) bench?

Any suggestions welcome, and I can elaborate where I'm unclear!
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
By Orraloon
I think Its better to just have a bench the same height as the saw then It can double as the outfeed table. Down the track when you upgrade the saw then you dont have to build another bench.
As to bench size about 600 to 700mm is wide enough as it's good to be able to reach over to the other side and seeing as the shed is not large no point having a bench twice as wide as it needs to be.
By Sad Pangolin
Cheers.... smallish shop indeed, roughly 3.5x3.5m inside. The fixed shelving has about 90cm between the legs, the two leftmost have rolling drawers between them (that function as work surface as needed). So following your suggestion, I could remove the bottom shelf of the remaining one on the right & roll the tablesaw there when not in use, separate from workbench.

Now, my main concern is the wobbliness of the tablesaw-on-stand, so I want something to fix that: Any suggestions there needed! So far, I'm still thinking about boxing that in somehow.

From what you're writing I'm considering separating it into a smaller (say 85x122?) stablesaw+router bench, and the remainder of my 'reserved' footprint (so up to 95x122?) into a secondary bench that can be attached/detached in various configurations. This increases the cost (2sets wheels, more vertical uprights etc) and reduces stiffness, however makes it more adaptable.

Up to now I've had a 45x180 (x90) workbench along the window --- actually, two halves of study steel shelving each 45x90 (x90high) so I could swap between 90x90 and 45x180. From that I know I work well (non-woodworking, train layout or arduino/electronics, etc) on a much deeper surface -- thats my reasoning for (sheet-sizing) 122 deep... The tablesaw is a new acquisition, clearly; so putting it in a corner until needed may not be optimal.
By Orraloon
I had to google the saw to have an idea of the saw setup. ... e-saw.html
As it has wheels I would feel it would be more flexible workwise in a small shed being able to move it about as required. Could even wheel it outside on good days. That said we all have ways we like to work so if you like it built into a bench It's your call.
As to the stand having the wobbles some cross braces screwed on to the legs would stiffen things up.
By Sad Pangolin
OK. I think I'm mainly after some more infeed space, for a table sled. As on your link there's on the left 2ft, and in front about 1ft of fence/guide track!

If I follow your suggestion of a separate bench, I might router in slots for such track at the width of my saw, and then get say 4ft lengths of that track. Connecting them to my saw but sliding backwards, I can then couple my saw to my bench for outfeed. Sliding them forwards, I can put a sled on the infeed side if I support this.

Another probable problem with my original plan: Out-of-the-box the sawblade from back to front varies 1.5mm in distance to the left edge. My original plan of overlaying all with 12mm ply would give a 1x chance to get it right, then lock in the situation. I'm not sure how adjustable that would be later, or if expected to vary over time.


The supplied mitre gauge/ fence seem OK but the slider it has just wiggles wildly in the T-track... so just that runner I will have to replace. Of course the fence extrusion is too short when extending infeed.
By Orraloon
An outfeed table only has to take the weight of and support long bits of wood coming off the saw. It really does not need to be connected to the saw. This is my outfeed. Does the tablesaw and bandsaw as I can alter the height. You see some have slots to match the saw table but that is not really necessary as it can sit back a bit from the saw.
As to the saw itself it needs to be adjusted so blade is parallel to the miter gauge track. Then when that is done the fence is made parellel to the blade. Never seen one of those saws but where the saw is hung from the table there are likely bolts or screws. By slacking them the saw can be realigned then retighten them when done. Can be a fiddle to do but is a necessary task if you want the saw to perform right. Hope someone out there has a similar saw and give some pointers.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
By Orraloon
A PS to the above. Had another look at all the saw pictures this time and see the miter track is attached alongside the table so may be a easier option to shim out the track parellel to the blade. The saw also has quite a long outfeed attached so should do most of your cuts unless it's really long.