finishing

[aramco]

hi again I have almost finished a table made out of pitch pine ,but now I have problem of putting a finish on it, I have some finishing oil some Danish oil and some boiled linseed oil , but I am open to suggestions please.

take care

|John

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

Danish oil or finishing oil will be fine but not linseed oil unless you like the smell of cricket bats!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

There isn't too much difference in practice between Danish and Finishing. The difference is mainly the resin(s) content - Danish have higher in order to be more water resistant for exterior use.

 

[thetyreman]

I'd go with the finishing oil of the listed products.

 

[aramco]

hi thanks for the help but , contrary to my better judgment it looks like its going to be a clear gloss polyurethane finish, I looked at spray lacquer but as I am rubbish at spraying that was a no no , and brush lacquer is to expensive.

take care
John

 

[MikeG.]

Where are you John? I buy my water based lacquer for £8 per litre, and they'll give you a free sample pot big enough to do a table anyway.

If you are going to use polyurethane varnish, I suggest thinning it down 50/50 with white spirit and wiping it on and off again, a number of times.

 

[aramco]

hi mike I live in the Scottish borders newcastleton, I would love to try the water based lacquer where do you get it please.

take care.
John

 

[MikeG.]

It's fromIngilby Paints, Suffolk.

As with most water-based finishes, it raises the grain a bit, so needs sanding down between coats. The beauty of it is that it produces a robust non-yellowing finish which can easily be re-coated..........and the latter two attributes definitely do not apply to PU varnish. It looks a bit weird when you first see it: just like milk.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

In NZ it's an extremely common floor finish - especially on bare chipboard floors, which actually don't look at all odd.