Finishes on Pine

[Andy Kev.]

I've just built a pine bookcase and have got to applying the finish. I've wasn't sure about using the Danish Oil I've got because I've read that it can result in a blotchy finish on pine, so I bought a tin of finish from the local supermarket which is a mix of wax and varnish (it has the look of milk when you open the tin) and a test application on one bit of the rear side of the case looks good.

My question is, is it possible or even desirable to put a coat of Danish Oil on top of this to enhance the finish. Am I right in thinking that the wax-varnish finish would prevent any blotching which might result from application of the D.O.?

 

[MusicMan]

The varnish you have got is what I usually use for pine. I like the look of it and two or three coats, with a light fine-grit sand in between give a good surface. The first coat can be moderately heavy but the second (and third) should be very thin.

Fiddes Hard Wax Oil is a somewhat better product, more resistant to stains, alcohol, coffee etc, so is worth using on a desk top but not really on a bookcase unless the wood is really nice, eg yew.

I don't see any point in using Danish oil after these finishes.

 

[thetyreman]

I finished mine with shellac then wax, and am very happy with how it turned out, be careful not to make it too smooth though, sand it to 120 or 150 so that there's some grip or your books will be slipping everywhere , I think a very basic sanding sealer would be more than adequate then sand it back, you don't have to go overboard.

I'd imagine oils and their smells could penetrate into the paper, which is also why you won't find it used on the inside of drawers e.t.c and not many of us have 2-3 months to spare before it fully cures and we can use it.

 

[Andy Kev.]

Thanks for the replies, they make sense.

I want to try shellac one day but I don't think something the size of a bookcase would be my first effort!