Feather roller, final version

[Niki]

Good day

Today I made the final version (I hope), based on the second version.

If you have any comment, I'll be happy to here.

Thanks
niki

[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Feeder%20Rollers/01.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Feeder%20Rollers/02.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Feeder%20Rollers/03.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Feeder%20Rollers/04.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Feeder%20Rollers/05.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Feeder%20Rollers/06.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Feeder%20Rollers/07.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Feeder%20Rollers/09.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Feeder%20Rollers/10.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Feeder%20Rollers/11.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Feeder%20Rollers/12.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Feeder%20Rollers/13.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Feeder%20Rollers/14.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Feeder%20Rollers/15.jpg[/img]

 

[Mcluma]

That looks pretty good now 8)

ps do not be frightend of these UK safety guys who jump on you like nothing on earth - its a typical uk thing we call them good do-ers :wink:

keep the modifications comming

 

[seaco]

Very nicely done Niki and I agree with above some people do get just to goody goody in reality if you have any sense you use your tools safely and your idea looks as though it makes things safer to me!... :wink:

Are you still tilting the wheels down slightly?

 

[Scrit]

Since when is pointing out safe practice based on well established principles "goody-goody"? If you take that approach, then I hope you aren't a driver! Or at least not in my locale.

Scrit

 

[Niki]

Thank you Mcluma and Seaco

I think that you are both correct; "Safety is in the Head and not in the Blade", me think.

Seaco
Yes, the rollers (both) are tilted down. You can see it on the second picture (look at the screws).

Thanks
niki

 

[engineer one]

scrit i take your point,
but at a time when fireman are being banned from
sliding down poles due to H&S new plymouth station in papers sat 05 august, sometimes common sense needs to come into play.

the problem seems to be now that those doing the risk assessments have never actually used the tools and equipment they are assessing.

we all know of machinery which is almost impossible to use in normal
circumstances because of guarding designed to stop people hurting them selves by doing something stupid like standing on the machine.

as usual niki you have produced an interesting article which offers some better potential than normal featherboards in keeping wood properly pressed against the blade and fence. not convinced it will stop kick back, as it releases the pressure just before the end of the board moves over the blade, but it is a useful starting point.

paul :wink:

 

[seaco]

not convinced it will stop kick back, as it releases the pressure just before the end of the board moves over the blade, but it is a useful starting point.

paul :wink:

I don't think Niki said it would stop kickback but I certainly can't see it causing it?

Equal pressure either side of the blade while pushing lumber through is more important in my eyes to prevent kickback!

 

[Niki]

Thank you Paul

I did not say that it will stop kickback, I said, that you will not get kickback because of this setup.

Today, when I was cutting for the pictures, (and I made two cuts because I missed the first one and did not stop just before the end for the picture), I did not feel the transition from "roller pressing" to "roller released".

Of course, for example, if your fence is not parallel to the blade or the board is not flat, you will get it with or without the rollers.

Edit; Seaco, you are faster

niki

 

[Losos]

Hi Niki,
looks like you've arrived at a real neat solution to cutting lots of Oak boards. I await you next 'idea' with eager anticipation.

The Health & Safety legislation in England has in many ways gone far beyond 'common sense' but managers working in the industry are obliged to try to conform. As Scrit says a lot is down to common sense & what one can do in your own workshop is not always going to be acceptable in a factory, I think it's worth noting what the 'factory' rules are, even if we bend them sometimes, at least we will then know how far to 'bend'

 

[mrbingley]

I get the feeling that if you're using just ordinary steel instead of tempered sprung steel that any undue pressure will just bend the rollers and it won't come back, therefore losing the initial pressure.
If you can't get tempered steel I'd go back to wood with some spring in it.


Chris.

 

[Niki]

Thank you

Losos
I think that there is no end to safety laws and precaution but the best law is to use commonsense.
Ones, my friend told his boss, "to you and to the rabbi's wife it will not happen, you know why? Because you are not working".

Chris
I really don't know if it's tempered steel or not but it returns to the original condition (and it was expensive in Japan).

niki

 

[JFC]

What if you do get kick back because the fence is out of square ? Many people that read this forum dont have a top of the range table saw and some fences are pretty flimsy . Maybe the pressure of the rollers will bend the cheaper fences and cause kick back ?
Also timber bought from stock may have a slight deviation and this is normally at the ends due to bad machining , the roller would make sure that would cause a problem IMHO .
Great idea for some set ups but i dont think your going to make your millions out of it ..... unless of course you sell it to trend

 

[seaco]

What if you do get kick back because the fence is out of square ?

The spring in the metal should account for that!

Many people that read this forum dont have a top of the range table saw and some fences are pretty flimsy . Maybe the pressure of the rollers will bend the cheaper fences and cause kick back ?

Test the fence and if it flexes dont make one!

Also timber bought from stock may have a slight deviation and this is normally at the ends due to bad machining , the roller would make sure that would cause a problem IMHO .

Again the spring in the metal should help there!

Great idea for some set ups but i dont think your going to make your millions out of it ..... unless of course you sell it to trend

If people like Niki didn't invent and take the time to photograph and write about things this forum would be a less colourful place!

 

[Niki]

Thank you JFC

As you can see in the pictures of the prototype and this post, my fence is a home made (or shop made) fence. If the fence is flimsy, I would not cut nothing on this table saw (I got 2 kickbacks some 10 years ago).
I think that even with low end saw, one can make a good and accurate fence. I had one of those low end bench saw for almost 10 years (the EB is 6 months old) without any kickback.

niki

 

[Niki]

Thank you so much Seasco

You are for sure faster then me.

niki

 

[seaco]

Your welcome mate, keep up the good work!... :wink:

 

[devonwoody]

Niki, for your inventive mind, how about designing a system that allows a wedge to drop between the saw cut after it has left the blade and the riving knife has already been grabbed by the timber tension.

That should keep you busy this weekend

 

[JFC]

I don't think the spring in the metal is going to help if the timber runs out on the fence side , wont it push the timber round and cause the wood to snatch ?
Niki asked for opinions and im giving them . I think that its great he posts his ideas but i also know people will adapt it to their own materials and give it a go . Table saws aren't very forgiving when they snatch !

 

[Scrit]

I don't think the spring in the metal is going to help if the timber runs out on the fence side , wont it push the timber round and cause the wood to snatch ?

With a long rip fence (one that extends past the front of the sawblade) then that's a possibility as the timber can "destress" and jam between the blade and the rip fence - then "Hey Presto!" Kickback. If the rip fence is short there is nothing for the timber to "wedge" into and it doesn't really matter too much what is happening before the timber reaches the blade other than it os running straight at the blade.

Scrit

 

[seaco]

I don't think the spring in the metal is going to help if the timber runs out on the fence side , wont it push the timber round and cause the wood to snatch ?
Niki asked for opinions and im giving them . I think that its great he posts his ideas but i also know people will adapt it to their own materials and give it a go . Table saws aren't very forgiving when they snatch !

Then you should'nt be pushing it through the saw in the first place straighten one edge first... :shock: