Thein Seperator WIP - resurrected thread

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Krysstel

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Warning ! Long thread with many pictures.
Please bear with me ....................

After going through 4 shop vacs with all the inherent problems of blocked filters, reduced suction and small capacity I’ve finally got around to doing something permanent and proper with my dust extraction.
I set myself the following criteria :-
- fixed ductwork.
- no cables or pipes dragged across the floor.
- extraction from all my machines and power tools.
- remote start of extractor(s) from each machine and each power tool.
- minimal noise.
- minimal dust returned to the workshop environment.
- no reduction of suction due to blocked filters.

Initially I came close to buying a 2-motor Camvac combined with a small cyclone and big bucket, but at the last minute was persuaded out of it. I have a head room issue in my basement workshop which necessitates running all the fixed ductwork around the walls and with the last machine 13 meters from the extractor a Camvac, even with 4” ducts, would never have coped.
Plan B became a dual system with an Axminster ADE2200 HVLP chip extractor running through fixed ductwork and some kind of LVHP vacuum extractor for the power tools. I briefly considered using my existing shopvac with a Dust Deputy but there had to be a better way. Hanging on the wall in the basement we have a central vacuum cleaner unit which is connected via 2.5” fixed pipework to various suction outlets in the house. Essentially a wall mounted Camvac/Record LVHP extractor. Could I somehow also use this as my power tool extractor ?
The central vacuum cleaner has a 12V remote start circuit that starts the cleaner when a hose is plugged into one of the suction points. If I could utilise this facility, rig up a switch at the power tool end of the hose, and at the same time incorporate the mains power cable with the hose, then I’d almost have a Festools setup – maybe even better !
This is how I did it :-

The vacuum cleaner has a fine filter and exhaust direct to the outside. Obviously the filter would get blocked just as quickly as in a shopvac. I solved that problem by hooking it up via a Dust Deputy. The 2,5” flexible hose came from Rutlands. Exhaust pipe not finished in picture but now routed out through wall.
pic1.jpg


The vacuum unit, although quite powerful, has only one motor so I rerouted all the 2.5” pipework to give the shortest possible run. White pipe in the picture. The short branch to the right will go to my SCMS.
pic2.jpg


Above each bench I’ll mount a suction outlet adjacent to a power socket and, to run the 12V start circuit, a panel mounted car cigarette lighter socket. Power socket not yet installed in picture.
pic3.jpg


If I was to be able to incorporate the mains power cable with the extraction hose then I would have to replace the cable on each power tool with something similar to the plug & socket setup Festools use. After a lot of hunting I found these https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~eu_en/elfa/init.do?init=1
pic4.jpg


Modified Makita plunge saw
pic8.jpg


These are all the components I needed to rig up a complete extractor hose with integrated 12V start circuit and mains supply cable.
35mm extractor hose (from a central vacuum cleaner supplier)
Power tool adaptor (Axminster)
2-pole mains power mini socket. (Elfa Electronics)
Standard mains power plug (European type)
Small switch for 12V start circuit (not shown in picture)
12V plug (car cigarette lighter type)
2 x 1,0mm2 mains cable with rubber sheath
2 x 0,75mm2 cable for 12V circuit.
pic5.jpg


Initially I’ve attached both cables to the hose with plastic strips but have a braided sleeve and some heat-shrink shroud on order which I hope will be a better solution.
This kind of thing although I’ve ordered mine locally http://www.cmwltd.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_22&products_id=266

pic6.jpg


Here’s the complete setup connected to my plunge saw. For the moment I’ve left the mains cable a bit over long until I decide the optimal length.
At the wall outlet end (temporary connection in picture) I plug the hose into the suction point, and the 12V plug and mains plug into their respective sockets. At the power tool end I connect the mini mains plug & sockets together and attach the hose. When I flick the small 12V switch the extractor starts and stops.
PIC7.jpg


Does it work ?
This is the result after filling one DD bucket. Vacuum unit bucket on the right. The dust on the floor is all I managed to shake out of the filter. The level of suction has stayed at the same level the whole time.
Success !
pic9.jpg


Hope this was of some interest. I’ll post more as I develop the rest of the system and install the ADE2200 extractor, ductwork and homemade blastgates etc.

Mark





.
 
Anyone know what I've done wrong with posting the pictures ? The addresses show but not the actual pictures.

Mark
 
linking to flickr is a right faff - which is why i dont do many wips

first make sure you've turned off disable BBCode on your options when doing your message

then on flicker open the photo and go to share

where it says grab the html/bbcode do the 'ctrl c' thing making sure you've selected medium size and html on the check box

paste it in between the Img bits like you've done

and then the annoying bit:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/47923762@N08/6437891877/" title="P9210255 by stoatyboy, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7027/6437891877_cfd4c16cc2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="P9210255"></a>

see that lot above? delete everything from the start to the second http and then everything after the jpg.

and then it seems to work

6437891877_cfd4c16cc2.jpg


now I have a suspicious mind and suspect there may be an easier way but this is what I do

oh and use the preview button to see if it works before pressing submit that way you don't look so much like a donkey if you get it wrong - I just did and realised i'd not turned off the disable BB code so no picture sorted.

i think there is some proper instructions somewhere if you do a search

hope that helps
 
This is as far as I've got to date with the chip extraction (HVLP system)

The 6" duct top-left will continue another meter to the extractor.
After the 2 droppers to the PT (will be replaced by a Jet 260 after the new year) the duct reduces to 5" past the light fitting and then down to 4" soil pipe around the rest of the room. Droppers for pillar drill, under TS and router table. The 2 points at roof height will be for the TS crown-gaurd and the router table fence. The last dropper is for a floor-sweep/Gulper.
hvlp1.jpg


hvlp2.jpg


This is what the whole room looks like now after I'd panelled all the walls and hidden the 4" soil pipe behind. I plan to mount the blastgates directly at each flange where they come through the walls and use them as adaptors from the fixed ducting to 4" flexible hose.
hvlp3.jpg


Mark
 
If you are using the 'one sided' type gate from axminster and the like, I strongly advise that the gate is such that flow is vertical. If you must have the flow horizontal make sure the gate opens downwards.

With out this you will have problems with gates not closing fully.

Also always close gates with the extractor running.

Bob
 
9fingers":2m6we7y1 said:
If you are using the 'one sided' type gate from axminster and the like, I strongly advise that the gate is such that flow is vertical. If you must have the flow horizontal make sure the gate opens downwards.

With out this you will have problems with gates not closing fully.

Bob
Bob, so what you're saying is if the pipe run is horizontal and there are gates in the run, they should open downwards, yes? If so, I'll need to swivel mine through 180deg on the 'morrow - Rob
 
woodbloke":21izwb03 said:
9fingers":21izwb03 said:
If you are using the 'one sided' type gate from axminster and the like, I strongly advise that the gate is such that flow is vertical. If you must have the flow horizontal make sure the gate opens downwards.

With out this you will have problems with gates not closing fully.

Bob
Bob, so what you're saying is if the pipe run is horizontal and there are gates in the run, they should open downwards, yes? If so, I'll need to swivel mine through 180deg on the 'morrow - Rob


Correct. I have also added to my earlier reply that the gates should only be closed with the extractor running.

Bob
 
9fingers":qndgg8nh said:
woodbloke":qndgg8nh said:
9fingers":qndgg8nh said:
If you are using the 'one sided' type gate from axminster and the like, I strongly advise that the gate is such that flow is vertical. If you must have the flow horizontal make sure the gate opens downwards.

With out this you will have problems with gates not closing fully.

Bob
Bob, so what you're saying is if the pipe run is horizontal and there are gates in the run, they should open downwards, yes? If so, I'll need to swivel mine through 180deg on the 'morrow - Rob


Correct. I have also added to my earlier reply that the gates should only be closed with the extractor running.

Bob
Thanks for that Bob, I'll get mine altered first thing in the morning - Rob
 
If you are using the 'one sided' type gate from axminster and the like, I strongly advise that the gate is such that flow is vertical. If you must have the flow horizontal make sure the gate opens downwards.

With out this you will have problems with gates not closing fully.

Also always close gates with the extractor running.

I'm planning to make my own gates to fit the ends of the fixed pipework on one side and flexible hose on the other. Should be no problem to have them opening downwards although I don't completely understand why this should make a difference. Can you explain ?

Mark
 
Dust gets compressed into the corners of the gate housing and eventually the gate will not close fully. Not only does the gate then leak but it whistles too

If you are making your own gats then use the type where the gate protrudes on both sides. In this design, there is no where for dust to collect.

Bob
 
MickCheese":5cr8erjr said:
Looks great and very interesting, thanks for posting.

It looks like you work in a cave!

Mick

Basement under the house. 3 room in a T-shape. Total approx 30m2.
Walls are 1m thick stone so easy to heat and stays (almost !) the same temperature all year even when it's -20 outside .
4 windows along one side so it's not dark.
Only problem is the 1,9m (just over 6 feet) ceiling height :shock:

Mark
 
Krysstel":3kss4o71 said:
.


If I was to be able to incorporate the mains power cable with the extraction hose then I would have to replace the cable on each power tool with something similar to the plug & socket setup Festools use. After a lot of hunting I found these https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~eu_en/elfa/init.do?init=1
pic4.jpg



.
Can you post a link to these as I can't find them on th site
Thanks
 
Another possibility would be standard IEC connectors like the ones used for PC mains leads. These are available as male and female, cable mounted and should be much cheaper and only a little larger than the above type.

Bob
 
9fingers":1ioj4jx4 said:
Another possibility would be standard IEC connectors like the ones used for PC mains leads. These are available as male and female, cable mounted and should be much cheaper and only a little larger than the above type.

Bob
Great idea. I have lots of those around from dead computers. I would only need the cable mounted sockets. =D>

Thanks for the links Mark.
 
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