Do things have to be millilitre perfect?

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I'm Making the same trucks as Delboy ( see the last thing you made thread) The standard size is the red truck. I made twice as big (green truck) and a smaller, natural finish one. I'm making an even smaller one. The smaller I go, If it's 'out' , then it's really noticeable. I'm sticking to the larger ones!
 

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Hey Guys

18 Shaker doors later I think I’ve worked out why things weren’t square. Turns out that my combo square, lidl squares are simply not square when doing the flip test. I’m going to try and true up my combo square but it’s left me wondering what squares do you guys use? Can you recommend any that do not cost a fortune like Incra or woodpeckers?

Thanks
 
Traditional woodworking squares might look nice with their hardwood handles and brass inlays but are often not square :roll:

I use engineer's squares, reasonably priced in comparison and generally much more accurate.

I have heard a lot of good stuff about the Banggood squares etc (Woodpecker copy) but never used any myself.
 
I mostly use trad woodworking squares.
It's worth checking each one by flipping on a straight edged board, followed by careful filing and rechecking. I did that with mine and now I know how accurate they are.
 
Cheap and expendable squares can be cut from the undamaged corners of thin sheet mdf. They can also be quite large so very good for door making.
 
Years back, there was a frequent contributor called Niki. He posted lots of really clever ideas. Often, he used plastic setsquares - these can be very accurate and also cheap. (Just look at four in the shop and see if they fit together on a flat surface).

When he died, his posts and their illustrations were preserved here as a useful resource to all. Have a browse through and I'm sure you will find useful ideas.

the-wonderful-world-of-niki-s-jigs-t107708.html
 
an understanding of square is better than using the best square ever manufactured. on shaker doors the sides need to be the same length the rails need to be the same length. the ends of the rails need to be squarely cut. finally the corner to corner measurement needs to be the same.
the least important bit is cross cutting the rails. having a good reference square is also a good idea. you can show light on a square 60mm crosscut and it wont affect the squareness of your door hardly at all.
 
Thank you so much all and your advice John by b.

Rails and stiles aside (no issues there), what let me down was the cutting of the panel. Baring in mind that I have no reference square:

- cutting the mdf sheet for the panel was done by striking a line with the “lidl square”, placing the track on the like and make the cut. Problem here, the lidl square is not square

- accurately cutting on the table saw is fine but before hand I’m checking for square of the fence with the lidl square which is not square

Result is the panel is skewed (couple of mm) and therefore the corners of the assembled door are not flush. Luckily I managed to plane that flush but still, it’s not perfect.

Please correct me if I’m wrong but I think I need to do a couple of things:

Get a square that is reasonable square and not off my a couple of mm. This will be my reference.

Mentally get my head round squaring a sheet with a table saw or anything, I must admit I’ve watched lots of videos but still the “mechanics” of it I need to understand better. Yes I know about corner to corner measurements. I think I need to always remember to place the straight edge against the fence (silly I know)

As always any advise is appreciated. It’s the only way I learn :)

Thanks guys
 
Not following. The panel doesn't have to be square. It's edges are hidden in grooves in the edges of the frame (rails and stiles), and it's cut undersize. There's no need for accuracy at all.
 
Let’s say your holding the panel vertically and you identify the stile male edge is slightly slanted. The stile (female groove) would therefore sit slanted

Hope that makes sense
 
First you need a square that is square, preferably more then one, a small one and a bigger one.

If all your shoulders are cut square it makes things much easier as the frame will pull together square, providing all the rails etc are the same length.

When working with panels start with one edge that is straight, cut the other edge parallel to this. Cut one end square, measure the length and mark it square across. You can now measure corner to corner to check if it is square, if the measurements are different something is out.
 

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