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By Duncan A
#1220931
Thanks for taking the trouble to draw and post this, Mike.
I may have to replace a shed soon (yep, the bearers were placed directly onto paving slabs) and this will certainly be one way of keeping the job simple, it's a great idea.
Duncan
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By MikeG.
#1220932
Duncan A wrote:Thanks for taking the trouble to draw and post this, Mike.
I may have to replace a shed soon (yep, the bearers were placed directly onto paving slabs) and this will certainly be one way of keeping the job simple, it's a great idea.
Duncan


No problem, Duncan. Feel free to ask about it at the time.

Those drawings took an hour or two, but will actually save me hours of typing in the long run, and I was clutching around at the time for anything that would stop me getting on with some work.
By dom68
#1221434
hi mike is it necessary to use prestressed lintels or is just reinforced ample? as in fence posts..

would it be possible for me to cast my own lintels in some kind of form using reinforcing rods?

thanks..
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By MikeG.
#1221437
Frankly I doubt it makes much difference. Timber framed buildings are treated as a uniformly distributed load, so as long as the lintel is correctly bearing on the substrate along its length it will only be in local compression. My hunch (unproven) is that you won't be able to cast your own as cheaply as you can buy them. I don't think you'll find a fence post which is 150 in one dimension. The ones I am familiar with are about 100mm square, and although that is better than sitting the shed on the ground, it isn't really high enough.

Treated timber? Absolutely. Don't even think of not doing so.
By dom68
#1221444
i actually have a old mate (not seen him for a long time!) who has a fencing business.. i used to work for him long time ago.. i was thinking i could ask him to provide the concrete if i provide the form..

would it make a difference if two lintels are used length ways to make up full length of shed?

cheers, dom.
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By MikeG.
#1221446
dom68 wrote:.......would it make a difference if two lintels are used length ways to make up full length of shed?

cheers, dom.


No, absolutely not a problem. I should have made that clear. Just keep the gaps tight (and at the corners) otherwise you'll have mice or wasps nesting in the void.
By HOJ
#1221516
We use 150mm X 100mm concrete lintels, as part of our construction method, we generally keep the lintels to a max length of 1200mm long, found that longer than that length they have a risk of having a camber in them, plus, we can handle them easier.
By Sideways
#1222524
I've learnt a great deal from these threads Mike, thanks for sharing the ideas behind them as well as the designs themselves.
I plan to adapt your design to build a small (1.8 x 1.2M) uninsulated storage shed raised up on concrete lintels as you recommend.
I propose to move the 9mm OSB3 skin to the outsideof the framing as I don't need either the insulation or the smooth inner walls, but do like the stiffness that it will add to the frame.
Having the framing open on the inside will aid air circulation and make it easier to see any problems as the years go by.

I'll then use 25mm battens to support the cladding off the OSB to reduce the transfer of damp from rain soaking into the cladding.
In this construction, is there any significant benefit from fixing a membrane to the outer surface of the OSB before fixing the battens ?
The shed is in a sheltered corner of the garden so driven rain should not be an issue.
Thanks.
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By MikeG.
#1222527
For a store shed only (ie without human activity happening inside), what you are proposing is spot on. It is in fact exactly what I did for a shed I built (last year I think). No, you don't need a membrane over the OSB so long as you have counterbattens forming a 25mm airspace behind the cladding. For that sized building, ex 50x50 timber is plenty for the framing, with ex 100x50 for the lintel over the door.
By dom68
#1223084
hi mike.. i seem to be only able to find 140x100 lintels. if i wanted to use 4x4 for the sole plate would this be acceptable? im thinking of the gap between the ground and the underside of the floor..

also is there any reason i shouldnt use concrete screws for fixing the sole plate to the lintel rather than the galvanised straps?

thanks dom.