bandsaw/scrollsaw decison

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gjhimages

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i currently have a 2nd hand excalibur ex16 and an Aldi bandsaw
been getting more into bandsaw but 75mm depth of cut is a bit limiting. for me it is easier to use bandsaw, i am making boxes etc
so
i am thinking sell ex16 and aldi b/saw and buy a better spec bandsaw

would a thinner blade be able to do finer cuts aka scrollsaw?

i realise inside cuts would be out but i don't really do that many

thoughts?
 
Most bandsaw blades are the same or thereabout thickness, a finer tooth profile will make finer cuts at the expense of speed through the workpiece and the risk of burning, however a narrower blade will allow a tighter radius to be cut, but at the detriment to control if cutting straight, the wider the blade the more control over re-sawing the workpiece, what do you mean by inside cuts?

Mike
 
Agree that most blades for little band saws (like mine) are about the same thickness as the bigger scroll saw blades, but the finer scroll saw blades (as would fit into the Excali 16 that the OP currently has) are MUCH finer/thinner.

I'm pretty sure that what he means by inside cuts are the sort of things you see in a lot of fretwork - "holes" in the middle of the work somewhere, such as for decorative cut out scrolls, etc (sorry!).

IMO (not so experienced), I use my Excal 21 for just about any curved or angled cut in just about any size, type, & thickness of wood (and thin metal too), but use the band saw for just about all straight cuts, especially if the fence is OK (mine is very fiddly to get right - cheapo saw - but I get there in the end).

If the OP is more or less permanently into boxes, with almost no curved and/or angled cuts then I would say that the band saw is the way to go. As already said, with a narrow blade the band saw will do angled cuts, though of course, not to the tight radii that a scroll saw will do.

Note that if his Excal 16 is in good nick then it should fetch a decent price on the SH market - they're generally acknowledged to be pretty good scroll saws.

Just my take FWIW.

AES
 
MikeJhn":3iaum1p0 said:
Most bandsaw blades are the same or thereabout thickness, a finer tooth profile will make finer cuts at the expense of speed through the workpiece and the risk of burning, however a narrower blade will allow a tighter radius to be cut, but at the detriment to control if cutting straight, the wider the blade the more control over re-sawing the workpiece, what do you mean by inside cuts?

Mike

Cutting the middle out of something without cutting your way in.
 
Thanks for the replies
You are right regarding inside cuts, drill holes put blade through and cut out
Maybe just save and buy decent bandsaw to use alongside ex16
I could always make boxes in layers and glue and sand to finish
 
Ah Ha, fretting out the inside of a piece, thanks for explanation guys, not into fret work.

Mike
 
Nice boxes wish mine were as good looking, practice,practice
Out of interest what bandsaw do you have?
 
I have an axminster 350N, but to be honest, its not really about the make, its about the attention to setting up detail.
Even expensive bandsaws need "fettling" nowadays.

Whichever you buy, you need to use Tuffsaws blades. I dont know what Ian does to them, but they are unbeatable. I have had tuffsaws blades resharpened locally and they are nowhere near as good as they originally were.

!/4" (6mm) or even narrower will get you around some very tight corners.
 
Ta
It’s probably a bit more than I can afford at the moment.
Looking at record power bs250. If I could get £200/250 for ex16 it would be on my shopping list
 
My first bandsaw was small and cheap because I "couldnt really afford it" at the time.
I spent over a year fighting that piece of junk before I caved in and spent more than I could afford. I havent regretted a single minute.

Truly, sell some children to get a decent one. :shock: 8)
 
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