101 uses for a hot melt glue gun.

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Phil Pascoe

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Well no, actually, but here's the first one. Someone asked in another thread what we used h/m glue for so I thought it might be interesting and informative to see how many we can get, so here goes.

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Sled for squaring logs on a bandsaw. A sacrificial piece of MDF and some wedges - a damn sight safer than trying to hold it.
 

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1. I hot-glued the 'fibre ring' from a Hayter Osprey lawnmower clutch back to the metal plate it had detached from... never had a problem since.

2. I usually hot-glue the piezo disc into a piezo guitar pickup when I make such a thing.
 
I use mine a lot when gluing flexible things, I use the proper glue on the item and a dab of hot glue almost like a clamp. A recent example was some PVC trim, it wouldn't hold it place on it's own because of the shape and position and the silicone I was using to attach it doesn't have enough grab while wet, it would pull away slowly, a dab of hot glue held it in place while the silicone cured and only required me to hold it for a few seconds. When I use hot glue like this I also often use a can of air duster to freeze the hot glue.
 
Used by me and many woodwind makers and repair techs to fix the pads on woodwind instruments. Older alternative is sold shellac, melted over a sprit lamp.
 
I use it to stick thin pieces down so I can thin them even more with a plane.

although in my shop it's usually going from 3mm to 2 at one end and 0 at the other. :)

also, it's way better than those sticky bits of plastic for stopping your cupboard doors slamming.
 
1 - An old trick but just to state it here - I've used it to position a drawer front in the correct place (with shims) so you can then pull the whole drawer out to screw the drawerfront from behind.

2 - I use it to hold items on my thicknesser sled, just a few short lines where the side meets the sled is enough. Using it this way you can gang up a whole load at once to speed up the work and ensure continuity, see below pic on the right.

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3 - same thing with the thicknesser sled but I have squeezed it under any gaps below the wood as support if it's warped or twisted to stop the rollers from deflecting the wood thus deforming an otherwise flat cut.

4 - hold a template down onto wood to be routed when you don't want screwholes
 

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it's pretty good for cable routing too. If I have to run a long low voltage cable I'll cut a groove, puss the cable in then run a bead of hot snot over it.

also for waterproofing connections (again low voltage stuff only)

quick way of attaching runners on a tablesaw sled ready for screwing them in later too. :)

I also use it when I'm making small draw or box dividers as it's quick to hold and makes a good strong joint for this application. if it's just little boxes I'll use mitrebond (CA with activator).
cant take credit for the door bump stop idea.
 
novocaine":24j9zrvy said:
puss the cable in then run a bead of hot snot over it.

:shock: :lol:

I haven't yet used HMG, I presume it must be quite easy to remove after a temporary application?
 
It could be ideal for holding work on a temporary base while carving. I've got one carving vice but it's usual to have two or three pieces on the go at once. [Less usual to have one actually completed!]

I like the thicknesser sled idea, I suppose adding sacrificial pieces past the 'good' pieces could eliminate snipe [or move it onto the sacrificial bits]
 
I sometimes use it like an extra pair of hands when soldering. i.e. if soldering a thin wire which tends to move, tack it a cm or so away from the intended solder joint to prevent movement.

It's also great for sticking your mates coffee mug to his desk. :)

I've actually only just bought one after always borrowing a friends, for two years.
 
I commented down at the club how happy I was to have a gun with a quicker throughput when gluing bigger jobs ... and was told that someone else always has three well heated guns on the go when he sticks blanks of over a hundredweight. :shock:
 
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