In this guide I’ll be using the Tormek 2005 with the straight edge jig, to sharpen a bevel edge chisel.
Start by sliding the chisel into the jig with the bevel facing down. Making sure the right hand side of the chisel is against the two stops on the jig (where the two arrows are pointing in the picture)
The chisel should protrude from the jig about 2" (50mm)…
Tighten the two knobs on the jig to clamp the chisel in place, making sure it’s applying even pressure on the chisel and that the chisel is still resting against the two stops.
Grab the Pro AngleMaster and set the to the angle you require. I’m setting it at 25°…
With the universal support placed in the vertical sleeves, slide the jig & chisel onto the support.
Resting the back end of the Pro AngleMaster on the stone and the other end on the back of the chisel, set the angle by lifting or lowering the universal support. When the AngleMaster is resting flat on the back of the chisel, the chisel is set to the correct...
In this guide, I will be using the T20 biscuit jointer.
The review for the T20 biscuit jointer can be found here.
First you have to decide which biscuit size to use (0,10 or 20). I’m going to use no. 20 biscuits.
You now need to draw witness lines across both of the boards to be joined. These witness lines are where the biscuits will be. It helps when marking the witness lines if you take a biscuit and roughly mark a center line on it. (Just to help you layout the witness lines.)
Make sure you set the biscuit jointer to the correct depth. In my case I’m setting it to 20, for No. 20 Biscuits.
The blue arrow is pointing to a small lever; turn this anti-clockwise to loosen the fence. Set the fence height to about half the thickness of wood you are joining, so the biscuit slot will be in the center of the wood. Tighten up the fence by turning the lever clockwise.
When setting the height of the fence, make sure it’s level. The red arrows are pointing to two scales, If they read...
In this guide I am using beadLOCK with the 3/8" guide bar.
First dry-fit your mating pieces together, as you have to draw a witness mark across both pieces. It helps later on if you draw the line as finely as possible.
The photo on your right shows me holding the tenon stock in the center of the wood. I judged this by ‘eye’ – and then you have to mark the witness line across both mating pieces, using the center of the tenon stock as your guide.
Carefully line up the witness mark to the edge of the ‘half moon’ on the jig.
Clamp the jig to the piece of wood using a bench vice or workmate. You could use a clamp, but this way both the jig and the work piece are secured.
Set the jig to the ‘A’ position by loosening the knobs and sliding the guide block to the left. (Three holes should be showing).
Make sure you tighten up the knobs before drilling.
Using a 3/8" or 9.5mm twist drill bit and masking tape to act as a depth stop, drill the three holes.