Sheds and boundaries...

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stormy121

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This is something i am thinking about, I've decided my sheds size to be approx, 11x6ft odd size but its perfect for what i need, going onto some questions before i start the finalization though!

Planning permission! I'm up to date with most of it but its a bit of a grey area in terms of the boundaries, it states that if the outbuilding is to be with-in 2meters of a "dwelling boundaries" it can only be 2.5m high, but its not specific in terms of just a boundary? as my shed will be at the end of my garden next to a 7.5ft wall which then backs onto our private parking, the side wall backs onto the street which is public, you cannot see over it mind as our house is lower.

This is where i am lost, my understanding is the eaves height is 2.4m overall height is 4m but alas because i cannot confirm the boundaries its become an issue.

Thanks guys!
 
If you own what it’s next to, not a boundary. If you don’t, it is. It sounds quite clear in your case
 
I had a similar conversation with a building inspector regarding my oil tank. He wanted part of the wall which is next to the tank making higher as he said it should extend 300mm past the tank in height. I pointed out that the land at the other side of the wall was also mine so it wasn't a boundary wall. His argument was if I sold the land on the other side of the wall it would then become a boundary wall :dunno:

I extended the wall as I couldn't be bothered arguing and wanted to keep him onside for other stuff I was doing :rolleyes:
 
IMG20220913095240.jpg

So I thought id show this to explain the read a bit better, the wall on the left with the small fence goes out to a small green area that isn't a part of out boundary, so you have about 4 meters of grass then the path, but we are from the walls height on the left that much lower than the ground (odd I know!) but its a space that is just BEGGING for a nice work shed to be built :D
 
View attachment 143731
So I thought id show this to explain the read a bit better, the wall on the left with the small fence goes out to a small green area that isn't a part of out boundary, so you have about 4 meters of grass then the path, but we are from the walls height on the left that much lower than the ground (odd I know!) but its a space that is just BEGGING for a nice work shed to be built :D
Why do you need to go higher than 2.5m

I would go as high as the wall / fence.

With a standing line of sight the shed will hidden.

Looks like space for 12x8' shed?
 
Ah you see this is the problem i have, i intend on installing a uPVC door, most of which are around 2100mm tall, that would also need to have a brace at the top, including everything thrown in the height soon jumps up, as i wanted to build a unusual apex style it meant I needed to raise the eves up to the doors height, if it was a pent style i wouldn't have an issue, but with a pent style i have the problem that the shed will actually overhang onto the grass by almost a foot, the space there is roughly 12ft by 6.5ft so that's why i went with 11 x 6ft for maintenance etc Pent means i wouldn't be able to have a good overhang on the back, Apex allows this better, i actually 3d modelled them if that would help? you have to bare with me as i am dyslexic/autistic so pretty rubbish with this typing stuff and explaining myself ha
 
Ah you see this is the problem i have, i intend on installing a uPVC door, most of which are around 2100mm tall, that would also need to have a brace at the top, including everything thrown in the height soon jumps up, as i wanted to build a unusual apex style it meant I needed to raise the eves up to the doors height, if it was a pent style i wouldn't have an issue, but with a pent style i have the problem that the shed will actually overhang onto the grass by almost a foot, the space there is roughly 12ft by 6.5ft so that's why i went with 11 x 6ft for maintenance etc Pent means i wouldn't be able to have a good overhang on the back, Apex allows this better, i actually 3d modelled them if that would help? you have to bare with me as i am dyslexic/autistic so pretty rubbish with this typing stuff and explaining myself ha

You could use a 2" angle iron as a lintel coming down over the back side of the door thus having a zero height above the door.

6' is going to be a pretty narrow shed btw.

Whilst she's at the shops ... Take out the middle row of Slabs and put them in front of the existing slabs and fill hole with a couple of bags if hard core ... Yeap the patio was as big as that.. !🤣🤣🤣
 
Ah you see this is the problem i have, i intend on installing a uPVC door, most of which are around 2100mm tall, that would also need to have a brace at the top, including everything thrown in the height soon jumps up, as i wanted to build a unusual apex style it meant I needed to raise the eves up to the doors height, if it was a pent style i wouldn't have an issue, but with a pent style i have the problem that the shed will actually overhang onto the grass by almost a foot, the space there is roughly 12ft by 6.5ft so that's why i went with 11 x 6ft for maintenance etc Pent means i wouldn't be able to have a good overhang on the back, Apex allows this better, i actually 3d modelled them if that would help? you have to bare with me as i am dyslexic/autistic so pretty rubbish with this typing stuff and explaining myself ha
Do you own the wall with the trellis on the top.

If so way not use it as the back wall of the shed.

If the wall is 2.3m high that gives you 200mm for a roof.

Do you own the car parking behind the wall or is just designated for you.
If so you could overhang the parking slightly.
 
You could use a 2" angle iron as a lintel coming down over the back side of the door thus having a zero height above the door.

6' is going to be a pretty narrow shed btw.

Whilst she's at the shops ... Take out the middle row of Slabs and put them in front of the existing slabs and fill hole with a couple of bags if hard core ... Yeap the patio was as big as that.. !🤣🤣🤣
I have seriously thought about doing this to increase the footprint but as i will be only working on one side i dont think i need it to be honest!

Might do it just for the easy access to the back of the shed mind!
Do you own the wall with the trellis on the top.

If so way not use it as the back wall of the shed.

If the wall is 2.3m high that gives you 200mm for a roof.

Do you own the car parking behind the wall or is just designated for you.
If so you could overhang the parking slightly.
We dont outright own our house it is council owned but we do intend on eventually buying, The back wall is part of this house and the parking is considered "private" and has our house numbers on the parking so without looking into it i wouldn't be 100 percent sure if it was considered ours but im pretty sure it is! plus its wired up to our house for electric car charging and lights and we pay a little extra for it to be kept in good shape!

I did think about using the back wall but the problem with that is at the top exactly where i need to place the back beams there is a nib that sits out about 1inch and id rather not destroy it just in case we do decide to buy a different house ha! (mind you im pretty set on this one! convincing the other half not to keep looking is the hardest part! she just cannot help herself!)

So.......yes id love to use the back wall but it does create some issues! leaning toward getting a solid wood door instead of uPVC as this would allow me to adjust it to the size i need etc
 
If it's not your house I'd make sure all panels are not more than 6ft so that you can get them into a van. You can then take it with you if you need to.
 
We dont outright own our house it is council owned but we do intend on eventually buying, The back wall is part of this house and the parking is considered "private" and has our house numbers on the parking so without looking into it i wouldn't be 100 percent sure if it was considered ours but im pretty sure it is! plus its wired up to our house for electric car charging and lights and we pay a little extra for it to be kept in good shape!

I did think about using the back wall but the problem with that is at the top exactly where i need to place the back beams there is a nib that sits out about 1inch and id rather not destroy it just in case we do decide to buy a different house ha! (mind you im pretty set on this one! convincing the other half not to keep looking is the hardest part! she just cannot help herself!)

So.......yes id love to use the back wall but it does create some issues! leaning toward getting a solid wood door instead of uPVC as this would allow me to adjust it to the size i need etc

It is helpful for people give advice and others who may criizes that advice if you try to be exact with you statements. "We dont outright own our house it is council owned but we do intend on eventually buying" is a bit confusing. "We dont outright own it" could mean that you have a mortgage with ten years to go. But "is council owned" adds confusion; do you jointly own with the council and are hoping to get a mortgage to fully own the property or are you renting.
If you are renting you can not fix anything to the wall and most likely would have to take the shed with you or skip it.

I was thinking of sitting the roof on top of the wall not fixing to the face. No fixings into the wall. Then when you do move the shed could be removed by the buyers or you and the wall would be unmarked (apart from shed activities unless you covered it).

The wall could take the vertical load from the snow or people on the roof. You would have to have some timber ties from the roof joists down to the the shed floor to stop the wind trying to lift the roof. The end panels of the shed would have to be able be more substantial to stop racking as the wall side would not help.
 
Put the apex in the long side rather than the short side. I did this on an old shed. You have a better aspect facing the house as well. So not viewing the roof slope. It also gave me some storage in the roof space.
 
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