AJAX 1940s Pillar Drill Restoration

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nhphipps3

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Atherton
Hi everyone,

A couple of years ago I picked up an AJAX pillar drill off Facebook for something silly like £50. It's cast iron, weights an awful lot, and from what I can tell is 1940s - though happy to be corrected! It's as tall as me, and believe it or not I managed to get it home in the back of a 2014 Skoda.

The guy I bought it off had got it from someone else, and they've done a horrible powder coating job on the base and table. I'll remove this off the table, and eventually the rest too - any tips on how best to do this?

The original motor had had it and was dangerous, so I picked up an old 750W lathe motor and had a mount fabricated as it had a different mounting method to the original. I had to rewire this to work in the right direction and with the NVR switch I replaced on the drill rather than the motors own switch.

I've also fabricated my own belt tensioning system for it. This is a steel plate with a slot cut that an M10 coach bolt runs along on it's shoulders so it can't spin. Then a 10mm ID aluminium tube can be clamped down on the plate using the wingnut (which I might change to a normal nut), and a second tube spins on sealed bearings to run against the belt. Needs refining, but it works a treat!

There is a small amount of runout on the spindle which I've been hunting down. I've stripped apart the upper pulley assembly and cleaned and regreased that and the relevant bearings, and I'm happy with that. I'm now looking at where the spindle goes through the section which moves up and down with the lever arm, and I've got this apart to an extent, but am now stuck - no amount of hammering is getting anything out! If anyone has any advice, I'd love it :)

My future plans are to strip down all the paint and redo it, but that's a long way off - we're doing up the house which takes priority! Long term, I'd like to probably get a more powerful motor, and have this mounted in a way that I can tension the belt like you would with a modern pillar drill - but working with what I've got at the moment. I'd love to know more about the history of the machine too.

It's my first time working on something this size, go easy on me! Photos below :)
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Above - my DIY belt tensioning system. I've since added a couple more bolts to secure to the drill, and countersunk them too.
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The assembly where the run out is coming from, pre dissasembly
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Managed to get it out the car with a 2x4 as a lever!
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Excuse the messy workshop...
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Some big bearings in the top assembly!
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The offending part in the vice. The chuck attached on to the left most piece, and the right most piece rotates in the pulleys. Need to get them out and replace bearings, but heat and a hammer aren't helping. The wider non-rotating part might be threaded on to the bit which interfaces with the lever?
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The extent of my info on the machine!
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Original photo from the seller showing the height of the machine better.
 
Interesting renovation, I look forward to seeing how it evolves 👍
Looking on the web I found that the company is still in business, and still manufacturing industrial machinery. Looking on their history page there is a photo of a similar looking machine to yours dated 1946.
 

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Your tensioning system appears to be on the wrong side of the belt.

For a standard right hand twist drill, the side of the belt nearest to us in the photo is pulling. The tensioner should be on the other side to the pulling side.

If it is just the base and table that are powdercoated, fire is a good option for removal. A few old pallets, set alight and place items to be stripped on top. Probably best not to try to cook anything on the fire.
 
Your tensioning system appears to be on the wrong side of the belt.

For a standard right hand twist drill, the side of the belt nearest to us in the photo is pulling. The tensioner should be on the other side to the pulling side.

If it is just the base and table that are powdercoated, fire is a good option for removal. A few old pallets, set alight and place items to be stripped on top. Probably best not to try to cook anything on the fire.
I had no idea about that! I thought it best to set the system up to push the belt inwards so I didn't reduce the contact angle with the pulley, but hadn't considered that. Will it make much of a difference do you think? It's an easy enough fix to implement if so.

Yeah, just the base and table. Think the neighbours might hate me if I do that! I can't see me getting round to it for a while, aside from the table top as I want that back to being functional, and I'm hoping to pick up a cross slide vice for it at some point.
 
It is the way it has been done since all eternity (i.e. arrived at by empirical means and then later tested in a controlled manner). Tensioner on the slack side of the belt. A non-direct pull between motive power source and driven pulley on the tight side of the belt reduces drive efficiency.

There are lots of good books on the Internet Archive about (flat leather) belt and rope drives. They are a good source of information if you wish to gen up on the subject.

If we were to be really picky, vee belts are not supposed to be subjected to reverse curvature as the conta-flexing can shorten their life. AIUI, poly-vee belts and most synchronous (toothed) belts do not have this property.

On an old drill press with light use in a home workshop, it will not matter at all, but it is sometimes useful to know these trivial things.
 
It is the way it has been done since all eternity (i.e. arrived at by empirical means and then later tested in a controlled manner). Tensioner on the slack side of the belt. A non-direct pull between motive power source and driven pulley on the tight side of the belt reduces drive efficiency.

There are lots of good books on the Internet Archive about (flat leather) belt and rope drives. They are a good source of information if you wish to gen up on the subject.

If we were to be really picky, vee belts are not supposed to be subjected to reverse curvature as the conta-flexing can shorten their life. AIUI, poly-vee belts and most synchronous (toothed) belts do not have this property.

On an old drill press with light use in a home workshop, it will not matter at all, but it is sometimes useful to know these trivial things.
Thank you, that's really helpful knowledge to have! I'll get it on the other side - not much effort required at all. Don't suppose you've got any advice on disassembling the part that's giving me trouble?
 
I like the pulley adjustment and as others have said put it on the other side of the belt. Appreciate its job done but if you ever need to rebuild consider a pulley the same as petrol lawnmowers use for belt tightening. The belt will sit better
 
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Managed to finally disassemble the shaft that had been eluding me last night - it came apart in a very unexpected fashion! After much hammering, heating, and swearing a very slight seam appeared, and by hammering a punch at an angle, I managed to undo this cap to remove a housing, which revealed the bearing causing my runout issues! It's a Hoffman LS8, and I've ordered a genuine Hoffman replacement (new old stock) as it is definitely gone. I had to drill out the pin holding the collar on the shaft, so I'll need to replace that too. I'm as yet unsure on how I'll press the new bearing in to place given the length of the shaft, but it's all plainer sailing from here!
 

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