Search results

I'd agree about the Polyx type finishes that people mainly think of, but- I'd be genuinely interested to hear comments about Osmo Country Colours alongside the linseed paints being tested in this thread. It's veg oil based and coverage and pigment seems absolutely great on the few bits I've...

It does look similar to Sweet Chestnut (as mentioned above) but I don't think it's quite there. if it's quite a recently made bit of cast, the most likely candidate will be some of the Acacia or Robinia species now being used across Europe and Asia as plantation hardwood for outdoor furniture...

I use the smaller sliding Hitachi and the lock is excellent for non standard angles. It draws tight and clamps up nicely, rather than just poking a thread against a stop.

Having a hoard of timber that is always present doesn't seem to help. A friend of mine did a lot of sculptural work with Lebanon Cedar and worked with stacks of it everywhere, he became very sensitised to it, and ended up with his face swelling 'like Rocky Balboa'. I also know a joiner who can't...

If you're desperate to drill HSS, I've had good results with 'locksmith's drills'. They are a fraction of the price of proper engineerium tackle, and have worked well for drilling tool steel and HSS spindle moulder blanks (when using a pillar drill). The price is worth a punt for a one off...

Those 8 sections (if they were 2x2 at 2ft long) work out to 0.44 of a cubic ft. Most small mills would have a UK hardwood for you at between £20 to £40 per cubic ft, so between £8.80 and £13.20 for rough materials would be a baseline to work from. Unsurprisingly, any machining done for you has a...

Sounds like a CBN wheel. (Cubic Boron Nitride?) They are a very hard abrasive and maintain their diameter and flat surface until finally worn out. They are used for sharpening all sorts of hard materials.

If it's a window frame that's catching the weather externally, then you might even find that well air dried stock will be better behaved than kilned Oak that may have been rushed.

Can't help thinking that a decent 12 inch Startrite, Multico or Sedgwick would be a good buy`

Well, they're sort of recycling leftovers.... It's not my side of the timber trade, but I've heard that most of the laminated Oak furniture out there is made from lower grade European logs that are rammed into shipping containers, then go for a trip to China and back. There are huge amounts of...

Pressure treatment is not exactly brilliant these days, all the goodies/ nasties have been taken out. It's now graded in 'Usage Classes', with the 'best' being UC4, rated for constant ground contact. It's still not great. Concrete posts are a sensible way forward, as is having a very heavy...

It's definitely a big issue with cast iron You can set a length of waxed ply or MFC through the machine to stop bed/timber contact when thicknessing. You may still get problems if your final pressure roller is steel rather than rubber covered. Some machines are set up to cope with green...

The tannins are much more mobile in green wood, I don't think there's any less of them. Dry Oak externally doesn't weep so much tannin staining when exposed to rain.

If we exit fully, then presumably VAT will be charged on every business to business sale coming to the UK (or what's physically left of the Union) from EU member countries. As far as I'm aware, it is not charged across European borders but will be if we leave. That percentage would in all...

Logosol sell 1, it can be fitted with different radius bits and can be used for making holes in serving boards for sauce pots as well. I don't think it's online, but give them a ring, it was in their cutter catalogue recently. http://www.logosol.co.uk/

I do quite a bit of milling and machining of locally grown softwoods. I would actually reckon that Larch is harder wearing and more durable than Douglas, it's a denser and tougher timber and it should be a bit cheaper as well. Neither will give you much noticeable trouble if used fresh sawn...

:wink: It doesn't need to be complicated, we like simple.

There are grit blasting attachments for pressure washers that look very good for distressing timber. Otherwise flutter your eyelashes at your local Environment Agency team, they may have grids and weirs that they empty regularly.

If you need to neatly straight edge and tidy up long boards, how about an old style sawmill sliding table/ edging saw? A ladder would be a great starting point. You've got enough blade above the table that you wouldn't miss much depth of cut. this video, about 4mins50 into it...

Howdy Mr Woodburner! No, it's sat in the corner till a couple more structural jobs are finished in the workshop.... Luckily it's been quite tropical!