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No help to you, but I use T&G chipboard flooring boards. Cheap and easy to fix, and you get a nice flat surface with flush joints. Also if you use them horizontally and off set like bricks, then you don't have to worry about the spacing of your uprights.

Pictures would be helpful.

Once you know the size try D Middleton stainless. They do high quality bolts with smooth heads as in the picture.

Let's hope it is a later add on. What a bodge up !

My daughter, about 5, came into the workshop while I was turning something and wanted to know what the machine was, and what it did. My answer was "a lathe, it's for making round things". This has become a standing joke. Now she's in her 20's, and on the subject of what I will do when I retire...

You really want double braked ones. They stop the wheel going round, and lock the swivel as well.

I which case, depending on how old the car is, they probably do want replacing. That is why most manufacturers specify a mileage or time period for certain replacements. If those pads are say ten years old I certainly wouldn't want to rely on them in an emergency. If the adhesive bonding the...

No filing cabinet required in my house, I can assure you :rolleyes:

Try sending the images to lathes.co.uk, they might be able to identify it.

I am with Yellow Ardvark, used to use Jenolite but modern stuff seems to be a lot weaker recipe. The active ingredient is Phosphoric acid, and you can buy this much cheaper. It will leave a grey deposit behind that you need to clean off. Evaporust is very good, but a bit more expensive.

And you also have to wonder why we install a dpc, if damp can't rise up the wall?

Oh and I used double braked castors from Screwfix, about £12 each at the time .

Same idea on my lathe, weighs about 700kg. The feet can be swapped out for braked castors.

If it's a finned one I would have it straight in the bead blaster, much easier and faster. But evaporust should do it. Try and get it degreased well first. No chemical treatment particularly likes grease or oil.

So if you top it up to normal working pressure, let's say 1bar, then run the heating, when it gets warm it dumps water from the over pressure valve? This sounds very much as though the diaphragm has gone in the expansion vessel. If that is the case then you will have water behind your Schrader...

Phosphoric acid is also very good, and a bit quicker than citric or vinegar. It does smell though, although probably not as much as vinegar. Evaporust would be particularly good for what you are doing as it won't have any effect on the plating. Acid, of any kind, will tend to dull plated areas...

The boiler will generally have its own valves built into the tails before they leave the bottom of the unit. No real reason for the air valve on the expansion vessel to stick apart from corrosion. All that should be around it is air so if it is solid I am guessing it is because the diaphragm has...

+1 for evaporust really good stuff. Simple to use and no nasty smells.

Your boiler will probably have inbuilt isolation valves, so isolate it from the rest of the system first. If water comes out of the valve then you will need a new expansion vessel. Can be a relatively easy DIY job, depending on the design.

Not much use in solving your problem I know, but I use a hydraulic scissor lift. Takes up a lot less room when you are not using it.