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Wincanton is just north of the A303 in Somerset. BA9 8JJ

This has been in storage for many years, having only run for less than 10 hours . Type TDC-1241 £25, proceeds to charity . We're near Wincanton John

No 7 could well be Iroko, but there's not much to go on! I'd also plump for Blackwood for 8.

Osma wax-oil will darken the wood to a shade not far off what you want. Two or three coats. Polyurethane just doesn't suit oak in my book.

It may well be the original and genuine mahogany Swietenia mahogani - one of the Swietenia family at any rate. https://www.wood-database.com/cuban-mahogany/ Get your magnifying glass out!

I've become increasingly disillusioned with the performance of eye-brain in any sort of metrological task. The system is primarily designed for keeping you safe and rapid interpretation of the most likely scene. Google Constant Colour for instance. And these particular "images" I still find...

Excellent advice!

1. It's teak 2. I'd leave it as-is and allow it to turn silver. Oils & waxes attract dirt, and other finishes will degrade and flake with time. John

I've never heard of elm veneer?? but it looks like cherry to me too.

The devil is in the detail. 1. The saw, as others have said, will draw several 10's of amps during start-up. 2. A "Type C" MCB rated at 16A should be fine. I can't find a solution using a 13A plug, so, as you're in rented, a couple of options (with landlord approval) - assuming you're in the...

Yes, on the advert it says pretty much what you've said: iron onto substrate with paper, cool, remove paper, iron veneer with brown paper. I just wanted to hear from someone who's actually done it / tips etc and suceeded!

I'm about to attempt to veneer a couple of small speaker cabinets* which have been left unfinshed for nearly five decades! They're made of good quality half-inch birch ply, and I've glued some 1/8th inch thick teak edging onto the front face which surrounds the grill. I've never used EVA glue...

Have you managed to find something?

I suspect your original motor might have had problems for one of two reasons: 1. Centifrugal switch which removes the start winding from circuit might have (intermittently) stuck. This would not be picked up during a rewind. 2. Lack of cooling due to sawdust build-up in the windings and or fan...

It was probably treated with creosote many years ago, hence the smell?

It's amazing that anyone with an interest in technology survived the middle part of the 20th century. I have the "Hobbies New Annual" edited by F J Camm, wherein you can wind your own mains transforrmer (no earth) and plug it into a light fitting, then, (if you've survived that), guild your own...

Sold subject to postage logistics.

Cast iron, weighs about 12.5kg. Adjustable stops at +/-45 degrees. Very sharp! £50 plus post if not collected.

I have a complete Stanley 13-050 if it's of any interest? John

Are you interested in the spec of the motor, speed, foot/flange mount etc?