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Paul, I know nothing about the rods but an old pal of mine used to do chemical damp proofing and it was very successful, he did several walls for my daughter in an old farm house - no DPC ! all 100% success. The company who supplied the chemicals was Sovereign Chemicals in Barrow- in-Furness...

Clive I had a similar problem and I too am not "electrical" beyond simple stuff. I needed a twin contactor for reversing a single phase motor, the original had failed [some 50yrs old] After much searching and trying RS & several other wholesalers I made contact with Scheinder Electrical...

I assume the fibre optic cable is already inside a plastic tube laid first from the "box" to your home then the fibres blown through ? This is how our local fibre company do it. So what you are wanting to do is offer protection to the plastic tube ? Why not consider plumbing insulation as...

I agree with Yojevol ---Not sure where your property boundaries are but I would have tried to ensure there was sufficient space all around the building for future maintenance -- wood treatment etc etc. Also ensure the wooden bearers have a DPC under them.

I use Shellac filler sticks available in various colours and you apply with a heated knife/spatula - canny remember where I got mine from but Liberon supply them and probably others if you search around.

Simon, Assuming it is a 90deg turn corner joint I would purchase a router jig and make the correct joint. I have done several now [not a pro fitter] jigs are not so expensive now but you do need a 1/2 router. We are not too far apart feel free to message me if you wish.

I cannot quite visualise what you wish to make -- or is it the clamp lever for the quill ? If so why use Silver Steel ? yes its stronger but BMS should suffice. However heating is not necessary and with SS could be problematic, if its BMS heating will not be a problem and a gas torch will work...

Is it complete with all the cutters, guide, dogs etc etc ? 2 x 1m long Parf sticks 2 x drill guides 3mm drill bit 20mm drill bit with 3mm centre guide 3 x guide pins Guide block 2 x low profile dogs Extractor outlet

Since the machine is Rexon ?? it it almost certain the thread is metric i.e. 16mm x 2mm pitch 16mm = 5/8" [0.629"] and 12.7tpi = 0.o7874 = 2mm pitch [all +/- 0.001" or so] So really an easy task to make a nut !

Its not difficult to send most goods either way if you use one of the major carriers, DHL, UPS etc, they have pre-loaded forms that are very easy to fill in and guide you through the process. However I can understand if the companies margin is very small its not worth their time to even do this...

Why not as Artie says add a temporary support inside and make a couple of cat ladders - roofing lathes are good material for a these -- use one each side to access the area needed. the cat ladders will spread the load as well.

Maybe but more info needed ? --- see your messages

I have remedied this type of situation by using "NoNails" or a similar product, clear any dust from the hole fill it with the adhesive and push in the plug, leave long enough to set -- overnight ? then refit the screws.

Here's another one I made -- in fact I have made several, the first was about 50 years ago but it was taken prisoner !!! The jaw material is 1" x 3/4" tool steel

Here’s the one I have from c1962, pressed into service yesterday to enable me to split a piece of ally too short for the machine vice ! It’s been “hidden” at the back of a cupboard for xxx years and this post reminded me !!

Just for your interest the vice is typical in design to many made as apprentice pieces in college workshops in the 1960’s and beyond, I think I still have one lurking somewhere in my workshop This was at a time trade apprenticeship’s were the order of the day

Niall I think you need to give more detailed information, what tooling were you using, HSS or disposable tipped tools? By a whisker I assume you mean say less than 5 thou ? tipped tooling does not lend itself to small cuts, I would use HSS and for brass a small rad on the cutter plus honed...

Adam, by the arbor I assume you mean the saw spindle? If so where on the spindle are you doing the check? where the blade fits ? what are you using and whats the runout -- dial gauge etc? First thought of runout cause would be defective bearings ?

Get it done ! either cut it into slabs and make it thick enough so the when seasoned you can machine it to useful sizes and keep it reasonably flat. Or as you say use it green for rustic furniture. Number one Grandson has been doing this for some time now and has a good store of Oak, Ash...

Welcome to the forum Way, I was 35 some 44 years ago !! How far West are you, I'm in North Lancs and the border is just up the road. T'old folks came form Yorkshire still had a few rellies there. Your efforts look splendid keep it up -- all things practical are therapeutic - well at least for...