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"Do your best and caulk the rest" is the skirting mantra...

Those taper bearings need to have the correct clearance to allow them to float. The surfaces need to be good enough to maintain the oil film.(not damaged) and the oil reservoir needs to deliver the correct grade oil.

It's definitely possible to do without damage because I did it(about 19 years ago)

Have you correctly tightened it up. Just shooting the breeze. No idea how it's done but I did swap a belt on one years ago which involved removing the spindle.

Great stuff. You only need one side to allow movement technically thus halving the work! Let us know how you went on when you manage!

No reason not to. Great idea tbh.

In the eighties and nineties there was a bit of a boom in wood books many very project led. The guild of master craftsmen were ahead of the game in helping craftsmen get published. Unfortuneatly many were rather pulpy. And trying to transfer your design into an understandable format for the...

Please don't be discouraged by anything we suggest. People bring there own prejudices to these posts. I personally love books and hate youtube simply because everyone's a personality but the information presented is equally valid but often in short form. 1275gt linked me to old Jim kingshott...

I'm guessing here but power will be an issue spraying anything thicker than milk(water base)! Primer is particularly thick. Being honest I'd just brush paint. Topcoat can just about be sprayed with a 5 stage hvlp 1.8 needle but you need to buy industrial stuff that hasn't had thickener added...

https://www.makewoodgood.co.uk/product/cpes-clear-penetrating-epoxy-sealer/?gad_source=1

The primeval pleasure of making things usually emerges when someone retires from there lucrative job in IT et al.......

Humanity is making things and it has been that way for thousands of years. It's a bit like the primeval pleasure from a fire. But let's not kid ourselves it's not going to pay.....ever. I think I must have been the oddest child always making things. It's possibly a life skill in emerging...

Bit of a vague question tbh what type of spray gun. What sort of doors? Interior exterior. Water base solvent base.

The only method that lasts a bit longer I'm aware of is preserver, clear penetrating epoxy sealer then le tonkinois et al. Yacht style.even epifanes. This will last longest 100%

Ps I'm not trying to lead you from your ideas just suggesting how they may be conventionalised resulting in that joint being made redundant with four woodscrews and a drill larger than the screws shank.

That really lends itself to fast and accurate making as the eight leg parts will basically be identical and much stronger. Joining those mitres well then becomes the technical tricky bit. I've used that method on panelled blanket chests.

I love making those type of things using mitred corner posts. So the corners end up like L shaped with a single blind mortice in each half.

I started redwood pine ones with par 9 by 1. Maybe 6 or 7m. Preferably 22mm sometimes 8 by 1 as it gives less sapwood. Don't use spruce it's poo. Hardwood ones are from inch boards but they all finish at slightly different thicknesses. But thick (23-23mm) for the arms and structure. Then...

I would also consider how thin the legs are OK for single blind mortices but to thin for intersecting corner mortices. So basically stagger the mortices or beef up the leg.

Ps the whole assembly is not unlike clothes drying racks I make(and sell) Mortice and tenons whilst neat and strong on small frames are really tedious to get really perfect even with machines. Hence my desire to make everything identical as little variations can really slow things down and...