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If the drawer parts of the slides are of the type that have to be tilted, or 'hooked', onto the fixed portions, then your proposal won't work.

I've tried it; it works very well! I de-rusted a No. 24 Record vice using this method, and then some boot-fair tool finds. It's the ideal method for complex shapes and heavily pitted simple shapes. I use an old 12v wall-wart power supply: I can never remember anode or cathode, so I change...

I don't mean to be offensive, but I really don't think that there is anything there, apart perhaps from the hammer, that is worth the effort of derusting. One spanner is a British 'Gordon': the rest look like Chinesium (you can see that one is already bent). The screwdrivers, twist bits...

Wow! The heat-shrink worked! The crack wasn't as long as I remembered; only about 50mm, and on the side of the bend. It looks as if the crack was caused by the nozzle being pressed into the spout.

I've had mine for about 20 years, and never knew that! Mind you, I haven't used it for a long time, because the spout has split ALONG its length for about 100mm. I tried to solder it, but it wasn't successful, and it was just as messy with oil dripping down the can, so under the bench it went...

I can vouch for the quality of the Okada blades; some years ago a tool retailer (I can't remember which) was selling NOS at a good discount, so I bought blades for some of my planes. They are far, far superior to Stanley blades in every way.

The sort of work that I'm used to, 13mm is the first pilot!

My old screwdrivers are the ones that are shorter than they were because, early in my 70 years of driving screws(mainly in precision engineering), I learned by experience that a tapered screwdriver tip is a means of making an awkward job difficult, so the tips are regularly dressed. It's far...

Will he?

AS DJ and Stuart have said; the end of a screwdriver should be, at least, parallel, but preferably hollow ground. If the slot is paint-filled, place the corner of the driver tip at the edge of the slot, and tap the driver across the slot to clear it. Tapping the driver vertically can jam the...

I'd have put the drillbit in the lathe chuck, and mounted the bar on the toolholder and advanced the bar onto the drillbit. It's always worked for me!

If the frequency of the 'cheap' increases when the saw is powered up, it indicates that a bearing needs lubrication. HTH!

Junk Every Time?

I used to buy Duckham's 'Duck Oil' by the gallon. It was just as good as Plus Gas, and in bulk, much cheaper.

I've experienced petrol destroying items that were made of, or contained, rubber.

I used 'Galvafroid' many years ago as a first coat after alterations to steelwork. Undercoat and colour coat on top. Over 'bright' steel it is still good; over brushed rusted steel, and over sanded original paint it was a waste of time and money. (the 'bright'steel had the millscale removed...

I've found that my hand-filed-to-rip-form blades cut better than the fancy modern tooth patterns of other blades. Why use a cross-cut blade to rip? And I use the pendulum action!

The pendulum action should be OFF when cutting curves. Blades, and blade holders, will break easily.

I've never taken off the whole valve to only replace the washer. Just take out the split pin, and remove the lever arm. Unscrew the cap on the end of the valve. From underneath the valve, use a nail or small screwdriver to push the piston out. If the piston is brass, the end will screw off...

Nobody ever bothered about moss on roofs until jet washers came on to the DIY market! Back in the early 70s I had a jet washing business. Had an outside vehicle lift; did cars, taxis, coaches, lorries, diggers, boats, driveways, patios, walls, and factory floors, but never a roof.