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Thought the title was wrong for a moment, looked more like a trolley jack at first glance :lol:

Ill second th G&J Hall gear, use them a lot for metalworking cutters.

If its decorative, on a decent truck, go with 316, if its a working truck and not wanting to look perfect forever, go with 304. I do a fair bit of stainless work. Bright annealed 316 would be a nice choice, and easy to polish up just taht little bit more...if you really want bright, try and get...

A 5kg anvil isn't much good for forge work, you'd want at least 10x that... unless you are doing very delicate work.

I'm probably a bit late to the party, but sounds like Tek screws could well be they way forward....

Rub a bit of fine scotchbrite over it. Out of interest, is it galvanised or aluminium? If its Galvanised you could just put a bit of cold galv spray over it once clean.

Dormer A108 bits are good for stainless. I steer clear of cobalt bits for using in pistol drill, they hold good edge, but seem to snap easier.

Have you tried dearching for 'Rose Joints' a common trade name for them... Pretty small size, model engineering/radio controlled gear perhaps?

The only time i have ever needed to use 32a 110v is when its been necessary to weld from it, or working a high wattage power tool such as a 9" grinder at the end of a series of long leads. I'd just get another 3.3kva with 2 16a sockets personally... Unless you have any tools with quite large...

Absoloutely, takes seconds... or spend the same on a pack of discs :lol:

Spot on there... a 4.5/5" grinder would happily cut 3mm all day long with a quality disc, and is much easier to control for accurate cuts.

What sort of mild steel is it? hot rolled section, like angle? or from cold rolled or drawn steel? A finish i quite like is to give it a really good going over with a twist knot cup brush mounted in a grinder, this will remove dirt and mill scale, and some areas can be cleaned more to suit how...

If you wanted to eliminte the welding element, you could drill the plate and tap the hole, then cut a short thread on the bar to screw in....

We had them in last year, offering to regind press tooling, shear blades, drill, broaches, the lot. To be fair, the hardening process must have been pretty good, one of his demos was taking chunks out of bits of steel angle with a hatchet :lol:

Have a look at http://www.hobbyweld.co.uk/ Not much use in France i'm afraid W.f.

You might want to check your home insurance- I doubt many cover you for having Acetylene cylinders...

How does the nut help with a blade jam...? 99.9% of blade jams are probably improper use, cutting in a manner that will pinch the disc. For cutting a few slabs, I just run the disc along a length of timber. Surely a tile cutter wont be up to the job? You can get diamond blades to fit in the...

I normally wire brush (in an angle grinder) any rust and paint off, then use a liberal amount Iron paste rubbed in. Makes them look nice, but also functional.

Boa Wrenches work quite well on stubborn keyless chucks, and don't chew up the outsides of the chuck... Ive always found that they tend to go tight after a drill bit has 'bitten'. If you cant grip all that well, might be worth tagging one on to the end of an order.... the small ones cost...

Not sure about BOC, but the other main suppliers use bar coded cylinders, to try and prevent the two bottle shuffle. Not worth the grief to be honest, unless you plan to do brazing/silver soldering... As above, your insurance may well not allow storage of industrial gas cylinders...especially...