Recent content by RichD1

Thanks everyone for your input. I think I will get a piece of plate glass and try that method. It does sound quite easy to achieve. Using the drag method I always found that you could set one side and when you set the other side the other side moved.

So you're saying go back to the old straight edge across the blade and onto the outfeed table and measure the movement. My planer/trhicknesser is a Scheppach 260.

I'm thinking on buying a set of these magnetic height adjuster. I've watched several YouTube vids but am confused. They only show the setting of the height in the cutter block but not in relation to the outfeed table which surely is the key height. Am I missing something?

I rang Devon Timber last year and they wont let you visit and select plus a big delivery charge to Weymouth. Went back to Yandles and was surprised with how reasonable the prices were. Bought three large sawn Sapele boards about 250mm to 300mm wide by 50mm by 3 metres for about £60 a board.

Just checked the Repaircare stuff out and you can get a standard gun size tube from Amazon for £33 which is quite expensive for such a small repair. I was thinking about putting a couple of 6mm dowels through the joint to stabilise first and then filling with the good old Ronseal 2 pack...

I’m restoring my bay window. On previous threads I’ve discussed making new hardwood opening and fixed sashes. But the fanlights contain the original staine glass from the 1920‘s which I want to retain. They are both largely in good condition apart from the mortise and tenon joints at the...

I'm going to use the solvent based Dulux Weathershield products for finishing some sapele windows I'm making. I'm also going to prime using Dulux aluminium primer. I can remember when I used aluminium primer many years ago it was quite thick and produced draggy blobs. Should I thin the first...

Thanks for all the advice guys. I decided to stick with 'through' as I've never tried a 'stop' before. Also used Lumberjack poly for the first time so hopefully will provide a bit more joint protection. Richard

Would the use of a stop end mortice be better in a an opening window casement to protect the end from water ingress over the years. Richard

As it says, I've jointed everything up ready for gluing but the horns out of the vertical rails prevent the Bessey clamps being positioned central to the horizontal rail. If I do put them above the horn it does not pull the joint out of square. I had thought about making some slips of wood...

I should have added that I have used 1-2-3 in the past and found it lacking outside. I also used Cover Stain for an outside window sill and then some Dulus Weathershield undercoat on top and it started to blister after a couple of weeks. Fl;aked off right back to the sanded wood underneath.

Making replacement casements for my bay window. What is the best primer and should I use a preservative first including the tenons before they are glued together. Richard

Just tried some trial mortises in some scrap Sapele and it goes through fine. As I've got 20 mortisers to cut I've bought a new Japanese style chisel. Bit expensive but if it's as good as the reviews then it will be worth it. One reviewer had a similar small mortiser similar to mine and this...

Ahh, thats a good idea. Richard

I've cut the tenons for my sapele double glazed casements. So ready to cut the mortises. The mortses will be 35mm deep and using a 12mm chisel. The mortise machine is the small JET/Axminster 1/2hp one which I don't think is available now. The chisel is sharp as it has not been used before. Do...