Recent content by Prawn_Cracker

Thanks for the advice. Yeah it's nigh on impossible to know what was used at all on the existing tops! I'm wary of handling this badly and ending up with dire results. Previously I've used Liberon/Osmo, which has always worked well. I think my curiosity to use WOCA might be exceeded by falling...

Hi All I'm wondering if anyone has any experience of using this or perhaps just observations from the technical info? http://www.wocadenmark.com/shop/product/worktop-oil I need to replace a section of solid beech worktop and the local supplier here stocks and recommends this WOCA oil as a...

Junckers Strong would be my choice. Waterbased lacquer. Samples available free of charge to try before you buy too. Comes in matt, satin and gloss finish. Bona mega natural just as good though. The only reason I've not used it is that it takes a tiny bit longer to fully cure compared to...

If you want plaster reproduction then try these people http://www.regency-mouldings.com/ I bought from them to replace a large amount of cornice in my property, built around 1870. Quality of product was good and delivered on time. They're based in Bridgwater area so not sure about delivery to...

Atkinson walker in Sheffield are also worth talking to. It's usually Chris I speak with. They're on 0114 2752121 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Beau You're probably all sorted now but in case it helps I bought a Karcher WD3.4D (working off memory!) from the Karcher Outlet store http://www.karcheroutlet.co.uk/products ... GwodJGYAAA It runs my Elu177E okay plus the sliding mitre saw, TS55 etc. It's been really reliable and has...

I bought a selection of zirconia gritted belts for my hitachi sander from here https://bndabrasives.co.uk/?gclid=COHD5 ... Gwod4psLlg Quality belts, pretty quick turnaround. They also don't do mixed packs (or at least didn't when I ordered) so you need to order the minimum of each grit. Sent...

Hi Jacob I like that idea very much and will be easier for me to make up. If the strings are sound I can nail into those. Yeah the holes are for damp I presume too and were hidden by the carpet! Doesn't smell or feel damp as far as I can tell and I think (hope) it's a past issue. Cheers Andy...

Thanks chaps. I'll have to see what timber I have available. It might be that I need to glue up some pieces to achieve the right height. Plenty of off cuts though for wedging up! Best get cracking on it as the new carpet will be here soon. Andy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi All Having pulled up the carpet ready for the new one to go down a split tread has been revealed. It's also sagging in the stringer as at some point the glue block has come adrift. I have full but cramped access to the rear of the stair case. Am I best to replace the tread? If so id be...

I've had excellent results from Junckers strong. It's not immediately obvious from their brochures or trade sellers but they do an extra matt finish. The sheen is extremely low. I sealed with Junckers prelak before the strong. For filling in small gaps and punched in nail heads use lecol resin...

Cheers again for such great advice and A thanks for the kind offer to loan, I'm too far a away [DISAPPOINTED FACE] It's clear that one off hire isn't the way to go so you've saved me money, time and a good deal of frustration with a bunged up planar! Rodders I am in Devon and will check out...

I could indeed! I don't suppose you would notice that it wasn't true tongue and groove either? Cheers for that Peter. If anyone else has recommended links for suppliers that would be great. Cheers Andy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks all for the advice and suggestions, it's really appreciated My description of the task is poor. I basically want to rip and plane boards 16mm x 100mm x 1250mm. Then cut the bead and butt T&G into this. The cladding will be an internal hall. I definitely don't want to re-saw already cut...

Thanks Jacob. That's used far less words than I did to describe the task! So rip and cross cut to required length, width and height (adding dimensions on for losses to planing) then run through the planer to finished dimension. Makes sense about things bending as your releasing any tensions in...