Recent content by PhilC

Long story but for my orangery the head height at the eves was at a premium and so was the amount of overall height I could use outside (low upper windows) so to gain every mm oak was used so the rafter depth could be reduced compared with softwood.

Nope as I need more insulation to keep building control happy I need to cover the rafters. blackrod I don't suppose you have a link for the screwfix stainless steel dry wall screws? I can't find them????

Many thanks all, blackrod do you think that the gypsum screws would be ok in green oak as they are zinc plated rather than stainless?

Hi, I have to put up some 37mm (25+12mm) insulated plasterboard and attach it to pitched green oak rafters, anyone know if you can get long stainless steel drywall screws? Or any other ideas? Many thanks.

Many thanks, I'll try a few things but if not I'd be more than happy with your offer.

Many thanks for the reply's. Mmmmm decisions, decisions. Robin, the doors will indeed be multipoint locks so won't take much movement before they become inoperable. I don't suppose you could let me know what the light oak finish you use is? Or, as I have used Microshield Ultra waterproofing...

Hi, I have come across various threads that offer advice on how to finish oak to stop it going grey but I have a new oak frame along with oak French doors which I would like to look natural ie go grey in time but. 1) Does the frame and or the doors require an external finish of some sort to...

Thanks again, I have used the hide in plain sight approach before but this time I don't think it will fit in with the "ye olde" look I was hoping for. Might opt for the mitre cutter and see how some test pieces go (thanks for the tip re the straight edge).

Yup I read that too, what would you consider to be a heavyweight router to be?

I would prefer to have the join on the corner as If I just butt joint them there would be no mistaking that the post wasn't solid.

Hi Pete, maybe as a newbie I'm over engineering but as the cladding is in a conservatory there will be big differences in temperature and over time I wouldn't want the box corners to open. Also On the 4th (open) side there will be my double gazed units pushed and sandwiched against the oak. I...

Hi some of you may have seen my previous posts re wanting to box in some steel columns and how a I may go about it. The columns are approx. 80mm square but 2 meters long. I want to cover them in 32mm oak to give the impression of an oak post on 3 sides. Originally I was going to attempt to do...

Erm yes, it's the end with that big red button on isn't it? I thought if you can do a short spline why not a long one? If things go a bit wrong I don't have to use a 2 meter spline but any will be better than none, no?

Hi Dave, Many thanks for taking the time to help. Sorry my saw tilts the other way from your pics but I get the idea. I managed to adjust the blade by moving the entire motor assembly a little (the ts250 has about 5mm play either way) and then the table top a little towards the blade too, then...

To the left looking from the front