Recent content by johnbb99

Thanks, Tim. Good points.

Not so different to mine then, except that my stiles dovetail into my rails. My joints are tricky (they are certainly challenging me!) but those look even more so. I've been pondering the issue of the glazing, and am considering [deep breath] using acrylic or polycarbonate sheets [approx half...

I'm on a steep learning curve, but making progress. I've learnt that dowelling together pieces cut at an angle of 22.5° and making them fit neatly is beyond my abilities! But biscuits will do. There's a lot of detailed setting up before you can make neat dovetails, even with my Woodrat 600...

Just to complete the 'story', these are what I had originally. 'Timebond' is a useful name for a glue that allows a bit of repositioning (not strictly time, I know). So it's odd to me that they've kept the name, but changed the characteristics, and used it for an 'adhesive that bonds instantly...

This seems to be the current incarnation of what I used so many years ago:- Being thixotropic, you don't get stringing like you do with so many contact adhesives. And it seems they've done away with the very smelly solvent you often find. But the hot melt film option seems like a good one...

I did a bit of this years ago, and feel sure (absolutely certain, in fact) that I used a thixotropic contact adhesive, probably Timebond. As I remember it, although this glue is a contact adhesive, it allowed you to adjust the position of the veneer a little #provided# you hadn't pressed down at...

I'm told you can use a VPN to hide your true location, and I assume, say you are in the UK. Some VPNs are free.

Thanks, good points for me to check. I'm pretty sure the cut end comes back past the blade ok , but I will look again. What I have /just/ done is to reduce the clearance of the bottom bearing guides, and this seems to have improved the accuracy [to square]. I don't have a table saw, and my...

Wow! I'm guessing you spent a lot of money on a machine with a good reputation, and it all went badly. I hope you're feeling better now.

I take it you believe the saw is not set up well. You may be right, but it had been , and still does most cuts just fine, as far as I'm aware. This trimming of a piece of small-sized stock seems so undemanding. I'll experiment to check.

I'm using my record sabre 350 to cut some 50mm x 20mm section pieces of [old] oak to length, and wanting them square. Not much to ask, surely? (The blade isn't new, but it's cutting this stock without any issues. ) The blade guides are no more than about 75mm above the stock. one upper guide...

No, I hadn't considerd using one piece, and it's a good option. But I want to connect top and bottom securely so teh weight on teh bottom is properly supported [remember it's hanging on the wall]. That's why the dovetails, for vertical strength.

The softwood version is complete and was useful for me and client (wife!) . Dimensions have changed slightly as a result to make the sides 200mm, which results in the central door breing about 300 wide. So I plan (as above) a structural horizontal frame top and bottom, linked by the 5...

I'm doing a quick and dirty version in softwood to see how it all will go together. Will update at some point. :)

No Blackswanwood, I hadn't thought things through much at all! :rolleyes: But now I've worked on it, how about this: B is the part of the (bottom) frame with the front i.e. the door over it. I think I will have the sides wider, also. And bottom of drawing below, is a plan view of the join of B...