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bodgermatic Woodworker
Joined: 29 Jun 2007 Posts: 186 Location: Leicester
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| Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 8:01 pm Post subject: What would you call this, and how do I do it? |
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I'm not sure what you'd call what I want to do. I'd like to remove the red section in the crude diagram below, using handtools only:
I should add that the section to be removed is ~ 1 cm deep, 60cm long and 10cm wide. So a fair amount of material to remove.
Cheers! |
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Digit Master Cabinetmaker
Joined: 11 Nov 2007 Posts: 6774 Location: Wales
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| Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 8:07 pm Post subject: |
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Saw, rebate plane and chisel?
Roy. _________________ Happiness is a warm toilet seat! |
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nanscombe Woodworker

Joined: 03 Feb 2010 Posts: 54 Location: Kent, UK
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| Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 8:12 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not an expert but ...
If I were doing it, I would:
A) Mark / define the bottom edge with a marking knife (to avoid tearout).
B) Make multiple vertical saw cuts (I believe they are called relief cuts) , about 2cm or so apart (depending on the size of your chisel), in the waste area.
C) Using the marking knife line as a guide, remove each little block with a mallet and chisel.
Well, that's how I've seen something similar done.
As, I say, just a suggestion until someone comes up with something better. _________________ Nigel |
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Digit Master Cabinetmaker
Joined: 11 Nov 2007 Posts: 6774 Location: Wales
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| Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 8:25 pm Post subject: |
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I'd go with you on a, b and c, Nigel but would finish the base with a rebate plane, if available.
Roy. _________________ Happiness is a warm toilet seat! |
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Harbo Cabinetmaker
Joined: 13 Nov 2006 Posts: 1815 Location: Hampshire
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| Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 8:26 pm Post subject: |
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nanscombe - that's the way I was taught.
Rod |
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nanscombe Woodworker

Joined: 03 Feb 2010 Posts: 54 Location: Kent, UK
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| Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 8:32 pm Post subject: |
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Something like this. The relief cuts are exagerated.
 _________________ Nigel |
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matt Master Cabinetmaker

Joined: 04 Sep 2005 Posts: 2191 Location: Miles away - totally impractical...
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| Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 9:11 pm Post subject: |
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| Three pieces of wood. Two short bits with 4 degree angles glued to one long bit. |
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lurker Master Cabinetmaker
Joined: 02 Mar 2007 Posts: 2241 Location: Leicestershire
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| Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 9:45 pm Post subject: |
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| matt wrote: | | Three pieces of wood. Two short bits with 4 degree angles glued to one long bit. |
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bodgermatic Woodworker
Joined: 29 Jun 2007 Posts: 186 Location: Leicester
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| Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:31 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the replies guys. I was worried that 'three bits of wood' might crop up - I thought of that as an easier way to do it, after I'd already started Oh well, I'll keep on bashing. It's made slightly more painful than it might be because these are workbench sleds, so the work is clamped to a workmate that is A) the wrong height, and B) not heavy enough. So I'm chasing it around the shed! |
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bugbear Master Cabinetmaker

Joined: 16 Jul 2004 Posts: 3782 Location: North Suffolk
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| Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:52 am Post subject: |
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| nanscombe wrote: | Something like this. The relief cuts are exagerated.
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Depending on preferences, need for precision, and available tools, you could remove SOME of the waste pieces (defined by the relief cuts in the picture) and use a router plane, referencing the upper surface of the non-removed waste, to make the removed areas perfectly level and accurate, before removing the remaining waste.
The areas tidied by the router plane then make a reference surface to which the remaining area can be worked to.
BugBear _________________ Grinding, sharpening and polishing are really very interesting operations.
...William Henry Bragg |
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Pete Maddex Cabinetmaker

Joined: 22 Apr 2005 Posts: 1954 Location: nottingham
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| Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 10:03 am Post subject: |
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Hi,
Just what is a cm?
I thought it was something taught to kids, because mm where just to small and numerous, its mm and meters in the real world
I would go with 3 bits of wood, or reduce the depth to 5mm (1/2 a cm) to save work.
Pete _________________ Pete, Mad Bad and Dangerous to Know
It doesn't have to scream to cut wood |
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nanscombe Woodworker

Joined: 03 Feb 2010 Posts: 54 Location: Kent, UK
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| Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 10:11 am Post subject: |
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| bodgermatic wrote: | | Oh well, I'll keep on bashing. It's made slightly more painful than it might be because these are workbench sleds, so the work is clamped to a workmate that is A) the wrong height, and B) not heavy enough. So I'm chasing it around the shed! |
I feel your pain as that's how I was working last year.
One thing I did do, to make life a bit easier was to clamp one end of a piece of wood to the Workmate and the other to something solid, In my case a concrete fence post, the bench wasn't going anywhere then. _________________ Nigel |
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xy mosian Furniture Maker
Joined: 21 Feb 2009 Posts: 820 Location: West Yorkshire
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| Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 11:03 am Post subject: |
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| bodgermatic wrote: | | So I'm chasing it around the shed! |
The workmate that is!
Place a longish batten across the rails of the workmate and use a length of suitable studding to bolt it to the floor. I have a Rawbolt type fixing in the garage floor which takes an M6 thread, this keeps everything sturdy for me. Just replace the original bolt when removing the studding to keep the threaded hole clean.
xy |
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AndyT Furniture Maker

Joined: 24 Jul 2007 Posts: 514 Location: Bristol
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| Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 2:47 pm Post subject: |
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You could saw out most of the waste with a turning saw (like a big coping saw). Think of it as the hand tool equivalent of a bandsaw.
It might help to drill a hole in each of the internal corners to give you room to turn the blade.
But having said that, depending on the wood, chisel and mallet can be quicker. Or even an axe (seriously!) _________________ Andy |
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