Not registered?? Click HERE to join our community
Sticky Collet...

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    UKworkshop.co.uk Forum Index -> General Woodworking
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
matt
Master Cabinetmaker


Joined: 04 Sep 2005
Posts: 2219
Location: Miles away - totally impractical...

Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 9:09 pm Post subject: Sticky Collet... Reply with quote

Really pleased with my recently purchased CMT router, except for one rather irritating thing... The router bits get stuck fast in the collet and I have to remove the collet completely and bash the end on my workbench before it will (eventually...) release the bit.

I asked Axminster to send me a new 1/4" collet and nut. They sent my JUST a new collet. Tried it tonight and it is the same. Therefore, also tried the 1/2" collet. It too got the bit stuck fast.

Now I'm figuring that it is:
A) The nut that is at fault.
B) I'm overtightening the nut?
c) There is something else that I am doing wrong?

Interested to know whether anyone else has had a similar experience?

Cheers
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
llangatwgnedd
Furniture Maker


Joined: 17 Sep 2002
Posts: 915
Location: Castell Nedd

Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 9:23 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah!
Ron Fox to the rescue

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_1.html
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
matt
Master Cabinetmaker


Joined: 04 Sep 2005
Posts: 2219
Location: Miles away - totally impractical...

Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 10:23 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahaaaaaa... This is my particular problem (Thanks, Sawdust Producer (& Ron)):
Quote:
A secondary problem related to the first is that the 'snap-in' design of collet requires two bites of the spanner to release the cutter. The first bite releases the initial friction of the nut, after which you can take several turns of the nut with your fingers before it tightens up again. What has happened is that the shoulder in the nut has come to bear against the shoulder on the thimble, but cannot pull over the thimble because the cutter shank prevents the thimble compressing. You need to apply the spanner for a second time to pull the collet up out of the tapered motor shaft. The collet nut now, in effect, acts as a miniature hub-puller. This need for two bites of the spanner is my second most frequently asked question.

Although I don't fully understand the described solution... I get the second tighteing and then use the spanner to continue undoing the nut. I then end up with the collet and nut, complete with the bit still jammed in the collet, all in my hand. Smash the damn thing on the bench a few times and it eventually release the bit.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
JFC
Master Cabinetmaker


Joined: 30 Sep 2005
Posts: 2168
Location: London

Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 10:40 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

You need an Xtreme Xtension ! It gets rid of all that messing around with the collet .
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
llangatwgnedd
Furniture Maker


Joined: 17 Sep 2002
Posts: 915
Location: Castell Nedd

Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 10:56 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

I do think it is this paragraph is your problem

Quote:
With these collets, it is absolutely essential that the collet thimble be snapped firmly into the collet nut so that the shoulder on the thimble compresses and clicks under the shoulder in the collet nut. If this is not done, the cutter can be inserted, after a fashion, but will remain with the thimble in the motor shaft when you try to remove it. The trouble is that some routers come with their collets dismantled, and the thimble is never installed properly. In addition users might pull the thimble out of the nut for cleaning and not snap it right back.


When I first had my Freud I also had this problem until the thimble clicked home.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
matt
Master Cabinetmaker


Joined: 04 Sep 2005
Posts: 2219
Location: Miles away - totally impractical...

Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 11:44 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Sawdust Producer wrote:
I do think it is this paragraph is your problem

Quote:
With these collets, it is absolutely essential that the collet thimble be snapped firmly into the collet nut so that the shoulder on the thimble compresses and clicks under the shoulder in the collet nut. If this is not done, the cutter can be inserted, after a fashion, but will remain with the thimble in the motor shaft when you try to remove it. The trouble is that some routers come with their collets dismantled, and the thimble is never installed properly. In addition users might pull the thimble out of the nut for cleaning and not snap it right back.


When I first had my Freud I also had this problem until the thimble clicked home.


My collet thimble is snapped in to place. The router came fitted with the 1/2" collet and, when I changed it to the 1/4" I was aware that it needed to be pushed fully home. It's definately the paragraph that I cited in my previous post that is my problem - it's just the solution that does not actually work in my case . Confused

Cheers
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Chris Knight
Master Cabinetmaker


Joined: 14 Jan 2004
Posts: 6592
Location: SE London - NW Kent

Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 7:50 am Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt,

I thought the CMT was an ELU/DW 625 clone and so I am puzzled by your problem. Nonetheless a possible solution is to do what is needed on many other routers, including my Bosch which has a collet that snaps into the nut but still requires a SMART RAP WITH THE SPANNER after the initial loosening of the nut. I use a fairly heavy dury spanner and whack the nut itselef after it has been undone a turn or so after the initial looosening and before it starts to try and extract the collet- which it won't do without the knock.

This is standard practice for many older, especially USA routers.
_________________
Chris
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
devonwoody
Master Cabinetmaker


Joined: 11 Apr 2004
Posts: 8173
Location: Paignton Devon

Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 8:18 am Post subject: Reply with quote

You forum members need a TRITON router. Smile

No troubles Smile
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Knot Competent
Furniture Maker


Joined: 25 Apr 2004
Posts: 248
Location: North Somerset

Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 8:25 am Post subject: Reply with quote

Well said, DW! Let's try to get them all to see sense, and get a Triton router. The wind-up, wind-down mechanism makes life so easy for me. I thoroughly recommend them!

John
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Les Mahon
Furniture Maker


Joined: 07 Oct 2004
Posts: 366
Location: Cork, Ireland

Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 2:01 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt,

I have exactly the same problem, but only with cheap cutters. If I use Trend or Freud cutters it works fine. I Have just put it down to the no name cutters which I'm replacing bit by bit.

Les
_________________
---------------
The only thing to do with good advice is pass it on. It is never any use to oneself.
Oscar Wilde
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Dave R
Master Cabinetmaker


Joined: 12 Apr 2005
Posts: 2614
Location: Rochester, MN USA

Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 3:52 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

I wonder if the CMT router uses the same collet as the DW625/ Elu. If it does, you might want to consider getting an Eliminator Chuck. See this link: http://www.thecraftsmangallery.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?page=W/CTGY/RC

I had the same problem with the 1/2" collet that came with my DW625. The collet insert was snapped into the nut but it would still not let go of the bit. DeWalt sent me a new collet and nut which took care of it. When the Eliminator became available for the DW625, I bought one and have never put the OEM collet back on.

I have a ball-end, T-handled wrench that makes changing bits a simple thing.

The Xtreme Xtension, which I also have is a possibility if you need the extension, too. I found it a PIA to get it running without a bunch of vibration and for normal use, I dislike having the cutter that far from the lower bearing. The extension causes increased bearing wear due to the increase in side loading on said bearings. I only use an extension when absolutely needed and use slow, gentle feed to reduce wear and tear on the router.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Blog
matt
Master Cabinetmaker


Joined: 04 Sep 2005
Posts: 2219
Location: Miles away - totally impractical...

Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 9:13 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the feedback.

Looks as though I have to be more agressive with my spanner taps in the early stages of removing the bit.

If that fails... I may resort to an extra accessory, altho I'd rather spend the money on something else.

Cheers
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Bob Hutchins, central TX
Guest





Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2005 3:29 am Post subject: Racalcitrant Routers and Bashful Bits Reply with quote

Howdy Matt!

Joining in from across the pond and bit further. My DW625 collets were a might 'resistive' to relinquishing bits at first. I had to make a habit of cleaning the bit shanks with fine steel wool (Is it called something else in the UK?) or Scotchbrite pads before inserting them. After several such cleanings, the sticky bit problem went (mostly) away.

Another point not mentioned (or I missed) is that one must be careful NOT to let the bit shank seat fully into the router shaft. Keep it raised about a 1/16 inch. There's some law of physics (or psychics, can't keep them distinguished ) that doesn't like the combination of friction on both the sides AND ends of the bit shanks.

HTH
BobH
Back to top
devonwoody
Master Cabinetmaker


Joined: 11 Apr 2004
Posts: 8173
Location: Paignton Devon

Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2005 8:00 am Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Bobh for that very useful info, specially the reason for not letting the shank bottom in collet, I previously had always worried about that one. Although I once had a cheapo bit drop and lose profile because of that situation.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    UKworkshop.co.uk Forum Index -> General Woodworking All times are GMT + 1 Hour
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
UK, tools, machinery, woodworking, DIY, wood, drills, saws, power tools, second hand machinery, table saw


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
UKW Terms & Privacy

Follow UKWorkshop on Twitter