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filsgreen Furniture Maker
Joined: 21 Feb 2006 Posts: 573 Location: Scarborough
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| Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 1:41 am Post subject: |
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Listen guys..... your comments are about a gizillion light years beyond me...could you please speak English? Right now I am getting my head around using Hardwood and you are extolling the virtues of... something that I don't understand! The important feature for me is the ability to make "something" out of wood, the cheaper the better. I'm sorry if this upsets the puritans of the MB, but unfortunately I can't afford it any other way I am trying though! Please help a newbie understand the principles of woodwork?  |
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Scrit Master Cabinetmaker
Joined: 17 Sep 2002 Posts: 3887 Location: Woodwork UK Forum Moderator
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| Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 1:48 am Post subject: |
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Hi Phil
Fundamentally American yellow poplar = tulipwood. Poplar is a light, but very strong timber with very mild working characteristics, i.e. it doesn't blunt your tools too rapidly and can be planed and machined easily. When sanded it won't give you the greatest finish, as I said before, but it won't be too bad. It has the advantage of being relatively cheap against oak, ash, beech, etc. I'd say a good first step up from pine.
Does that suffice?
Scrit _________________ Customer Feedback (no stamp required) Have you found this post helpful? Please tick the appropriate box, tear along the dotted line and return to Woodwork UK: Very helpful OK A bit prescriptive Unintelligible Thank You. |
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Colin C Master Cabinetmaker

Joined: 09 Sep 2005 Posts: 2209 Location: North London
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| Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 1:52 am Post subject: |
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| filsgreen wrote: | Listen guys..... your comments are about a gizillion light years beyond me...could you please speak English? Right now I am getting my head around using Hardwood and you are extolling the virtues of... something that I don't understand! The important feature for me is the ability to make "something" out of wood, the cheaper the better. I'm sorry if this upsets the puritans of the MB, but unfortunately I can't afford it any other way I am trying though! Please help a newbie understand the principles of woodwork?  |
With that said, start with softwood until you are completey happy with what you are doing. There is lots of good furniture made with it.
On a side line to Scrit, I do agree with about poplar can some times be a pain to get an consistent finnish with it. I am a maker and Antique restorer myself so I understand what some cumtomers can be like  |
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Steve Maskery Master Cabinetmaker

Joined: 26 Apr 2004 Posts: 4383 Location: Nottingham
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| Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 1:59 am Post subject: |
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| Scrit wrote: | there's not much oak in the North West of England
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I'm a bit surprised at this, Scrit. I visited the Lakes about this time last year, just after Applebee was flooded, and I found a small timberyard. Can't remember its name but it was next to a llama farm. Or was it a Yak farm? Some daft animal anyway. They had LOTS of oak blown down in the storms, some of it very nice pippy oak. If I'd had the space I'd have bought a stack there and then. Beautiful.
| ColinC wrote: | If you go for Oak, go for American as it is much cheaper but it looks just the same
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Sorry Colin, but I couldn't disagree more. Either you have never used good oak, or you have never used bad oak. There is the world of difference between good English oak and generic American oak (and even that is not all bad, by any means). The colour, the figure, the texture is all better in "proper" oak.
One of the things that I find sad is the preponderance of "baltic" oak in a lot of modern, imported, cheap oak furniture. It's not all badly made either. So people think that the economic cost of making a dining table for 6 is 500. They don't appreciate that the wood is not the same and that Latvians can live to the same standard of living of everyone else they know on a dollar a day
I've long since come to the conclusion that we just have to bite the bullet and pay up, if we want the darn stuff, given that we, as a nation, have turned all our forests into shopping arcades and housing estates. Sorry, went to Meadowhall yesterday and haven't quite got over it yet.
It's late, I should be asleep.
G'night all.
S _________________ Please form an orderly queue for my Bandsaw DVDs!
The Ultimate Tablesaw Tenon Jig is here. |
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Colin C Master Cabinetmaker

Joined: 09 Sep 2005 Posts: 2209 Location: North London
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| Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 2:29 am Post subject: |
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| Steve Maskery wrote: | | Scrit wrote: | there's not much oak in the North West of England
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| ColinC wrote: | If you go for Oak, go for American as it is much cheaper but it looks just the same
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Sorry Colin, but I couldn't disagree more. Either you have never used good oak, or you have never used bad oak. There is the world of difference between good English oak and generic American oak (and even that is not all bad, by any means). The colour, the figure, the texture is all better in "proper" oak.
One of the things that I find sad is the pr in aeponderance of "baltic" oak
I've long since come to the conclusion that we just have to bite the bullet and pay up, if we want the darn stuff, given that we, as a nation, have turned all our forests into shopping arcades and housing estates. Sorry, went to Meadowhall yesterday and haven't quite got over it yet.
It's late, I should be asleep.
G'night all.
S |
Hi Steve, When i said looks the same, most poeple will not tell the difference but yes given the chioce I would go for English oak every time.
I have used timbers like Satinwood,Rosewood and proper Tulip ( not what you get in builders merchants, I will try to find the name for it ) and lots more but for the novice it would be a very expensive mistake if got wronge
The Tulipwood I know is called Dalbergia frutescens
I have also used bad Engilsh and American oak |
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Scrit Master Cabinetmaker
Joined: 17 Sep 2002 Posts: 3887 Location: Woodwork UK Forum Moderator
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| Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 2:58 am Post subject: |
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| Steve Maskery wrote: | | Scrit wrote: | | There's not much oak in the North West of England |
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The Lakes are a good 90 miles or so away for me so I haven't seen much of what you'd call quality English oak from that source here. I've got a couple of local suppliers (oak) who are rooting and sawing their own, but their quality makes it only suitable for flooring, beams and joinery - sadly they just don't seem to know how to grade for furniture. In south Lancashire and on the Wirral there isn't much oak growing or felled, either. I believe that Will Tyer(s?) (remember him?) used to work north of Lancaster in the main for oak, for the same reason. I'm always a bit wary of windblown because of the possiblity of thunder shakes. Most of the oak I used last year was French and extremely consistent (pronounced "bland"). But it worked well, was consistently dried - it "polished up" the way the customer wanted, too. I agree with what you say about American, though, even more "consistent" than the French. BTW for quality oak I find I cannot better John Boddy at Boroughbridge and they deliver anywhere
Scrit _________________ Customer Feedback (no stamp required) Have you found this post helpful? Please tick the appropriate box, tear along the dotted line and return to Woodwork UK: Very helpful OK A bit prescriptive Unintelligible Thank You. |
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DomValente Cabinetmaker

Joined: 20 Apr 2005 Posts: 1908 Location: South Hertfordshire
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| Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 6:47 am Post subject: |
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Totally agree Scrit
John Boddy do supply and deliver quality goods.
Yes please, may I have a 1000cubes of that 17.00 stock?????
Dom |
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Philly Master Cabinetmaker

Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 6816 Location: Dorset, England.
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| Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 8:22 am Post subject: |
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Phil
To boil all this down for you-
If you are not yet comfortable with your skills or want to try new techniques without wasting expensive timber then locally available softwoods like pine from B+Q or Jewsons are perfect for getting stuck in.
Hardwoods are more expensive than pine (some are very expensive!!) and also you have to search to find a suitable timber merchants to supply it. My nearest is about 30 miles away.
But hardwoods are a pleasure to work and when you want a project to last forever its worth building it from hardwood. They are more expensive but you will be putting in a lot of time-no point skimping on materials if you spend 100 hours building it
You will also find hardwoods are a real pleasure to work with sharp tools-it becomes addictive
Hope this is of use (and you lot-slow down! )
Philly  _________________ The PhillyBlog! |
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Steve Maskery Master Cabinetmaker

Joined: 26 Apr 2004 Posts: 4383 Location: Nottingham
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| Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 9:06 am Post subject: |
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| Colin C wrote: |
The Tulipwood I know is called Dalbergia frutescens
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Nice isn't it? There are, I believe, other trees also known as Tulipwood, as well as the American Poplar we get here (which I've always known as Canary Whitewood). This is why botanical names are so important. My dad always said that mahogany was made by Heinz, because there were 57 varieties.
BTW, sorry if if I came over a bit severe last night. It was late, and I'd already had two difficult conversations yesterday, requiring every ounce of tact I have. And given that I was at the end of the queue when God was giving out that particular commodity, there wasn't much left
Scrit,
I hadn't thought about the risk of shakes from windblown trees, I'll try to remember that.
Cheers
Steve _________________ Please form an orderly queue for my Bandsaw DVDs!
The Ultimate Tablesaw Tenon Jig is here. |
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filsgreen Furniture Maker
Joined: 21 Feb 2006 Posts: 573 Location: Scarborough
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| Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 10:23 am Post subject: |
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Thanks once again everyone, good solid advice which has clarified a lot of points for me. You've hit the nail on the head, sorry no pun intended, when you say that you have to pay the price if you want to progress. At the moment I'm making a scratch built adirondack style chair out of Pine and the material has cost about 30. If it looks good I will get some Tulip wood and make another, I like the idea of using Tulip wood because it isn't harsh on tools. As you have probably guessed from my work shop pics I am at the lower end of buying tools, having said that they have still cost me a few bob. At the end of the day, what is the point of spending a load of money on tools and then scrimp on the final product? I'll keep you posted with pics of WIP
Phil |
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Alf Hand Tool Goddess

Joined: 22 Oct 2003 Posts: 10937 Location: Up the proverbial creek
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| Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 10:27 am Post subject: |
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| Philly wrote: | | locally available softwoods like pine from B+Q or Jewsons are perfect for getting stuck in. |
Oh dear, I really didn't want to further confuse Phil, but are you sure you mean that, other Phil?
FWIW, my first serious quantity of hardwood was 100ft of Ash from British Hardwoods (they used to have a regular deal on ash and oak like that - wish they still did ) and it was an excellent introduction, IMO. Ash is a reasonably friendly timber that doesn't need staining or whathaveyou to make it acceptable, unlike poplar. Although I've left poplar unstained before now and it's really not that bad, just rather boring. Chris (waterhead37) has a nice finish for poplar IIRC, but he's off living it up downunder at the mo', lucky blighter...
Cheers, Alf _________________ Regularly Musing from the Workbench again: Das Blog |
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gidon Master Cabinetmaker

Joined: 19 Mar 2003 Posts: 2437 Location: West Dartmoor, Devon, UK
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| Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 11:17 am Post subject: |
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Hardwoods are definately worth the price - you'll get a lot more pleasure working with them, they generally look better and are, well, harder so your hard work will last longer - dig your thumbnail into your pine boards and then try the same with some Oak ... Although they are harder on your tools (ie your tools may need more regular sharpening) - hard woods like Ash, Beech, Oak (etc) are very easy to work with - a sharp chisel leaves a nice crisp cut.
Try making a smaller project with some hardwood like Ash or Oak (tends to be cheaper) - you'll be hooked. Wood for a small project needn't cost much and if you use a nice wood a simple oil finish is all you need and you're done.
If you have a woodworking evening class in your area the course tutor may be able to help you with your hardwood supplies.
And Tulipwood (or Yellow Poplar) does have a lot of variation but really isn't that bad - and I can get it almost as cheap as I can get softwood (~13 / cf).
Cheers
Gidon
Last edited by gidon on Thu Feb 23, 2006 11:37 am; edited 1 time in total |
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dennyk Woodworker
Joined: 02 Nov 2005 Posts: 183 Location: Liverpool
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| Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 11:24 am Post subject: |
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Hi Scrit
Just a bit of info wanted
Where do you live? are you in the Liverpool area?
Could you send me a PM, as I would like to meet you
Thanks _________________ Denny |
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Bean Cabinetmaker
Joined: 12 Jan 2004 Posts: 1516 Location: scouting about
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| Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 2:25 pm Post subject: |
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filsgreen
I use a fair amout of reclaimed hardwood, you need to be careful as there may be hidded nails or screws. But it can be as cheap as simply asking for it. I recently picked up a very good oak table from a school, they didnt want it and a fiver got the table. the table frame went to make my bench and the top will be converted into some cabinets soon. If you keep your eye open it does not have to be expensive.
Bean _________________ Bean
Whoooppsssss |
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Colin C Master Cabinetmaker

Joined: 09 Sep 2005 Posts: 2209 Location: North London
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| Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 3:10 pm Post subject: |
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| filsgreen wrote: | As you have probably guessed from my work shop pics I am at the lower end of buying tools, having said that they have still cost me a few bob.
Phil |
I wonder if that will change
Steve, no probs. Just pointing out that I have used lots of other woods ( some I will not get much chance to use now I work for myself ), Satinwood being one of them ( I could it all day if I could aford to ).
It smeels just like the satinwood you put in oil burners, the grain is very wild but with a finnish its very nice.
To all who work fulll time with, may this year bring easy customers  |
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