Toggle catches for boxes - what's the right spacing?

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Eric The Viking

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I just bought some of these from Screwfix:
2016-08-08 18.02.14.jpg

They look fine for the job I need them for (rough storage boxes in the workshop), but I was wondering if there is some "official" formula for getting the spacing right. I didn't see anything on the Screwfix web site, but that doesn't mean much (I might just not have noticed).

I can screw both bits to a single scrap of wood to experiment, but if there is a rule to apply, can someone enlighten me please?

TIA,

E.
 

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I would think it depends mostly on the size and shape of the box? If they look good, they're right, kinda thing.
 
I think I know what you mean unlike other replies
I'd experiment starting with the spacing about half a hole greater than the relaxed position.
In fact both the lid piece and the buckle will deform with use just enough to get a good over centre toggle action.
Hth
 
[Myford man - our posts almost crossed - you're right:I did mean that!]

Sorry -- I meant the top part spacing WRT the lower part - to get the clip-over tension correct.

Obviously they need to be a bit further apart than when the bail is just sitting in the hook (or is that a hasp?), but how much by? I don't want to start drilling holes and get it wrong - would be a horrid thing to have to fix.

I'll experiment by screwing both parts to one bit of wood, but there ought to be a better way really.

E.
 
Eric The Viking":2oxssvc3 said:
Sorry -- I meant the top part spacing WRT the lower part - to get the clip-over tension correct.


#-o :lol:
 
Wasn't only you that read it that way, Naz. I couldn't see what the problem was - you just put them where they look right? :lol: By the bye.
I wouldn't think there could be any sort of standard formula, as the design and function of clips is bound to differ from maker to maker. Unless they actually publish instructions it can only be suck it and see?
 
I don't know if this is "recommended" but last time I used some, I fitted the top parts, hung the bottom parts from them, and then marked holes for the bottom part using a sharp awl, aiming at the bottom of the visible hole rather than the centre. It worked for me.
 
I read it wrong, too. :)
Andy's idea sounds good to me. I recently fitted a pair to a box and kinda fudged it, one was good, the other was a bit loose. But I found that I could adjust it a tad with a pair of pliers, by tweaking the shape of the wire loop, rather than re-drilling holes.
 
Thanks.

I'm now the proud owner of twenty sets (long story, possibly to be revealed in due course), so I will experiment by screwing both parts to the same block of wood and see where that gets me. Annoyingly, although the pairs of holes look as if they should be the same distance apart, it isn't so. They're off by around 1/2 mm, which doesn't bode well for making some sort of jig, which I'd hoped to end up with.

We'll see - more news as it comes in...


E.
 
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