Working out wood length

[GarethEllis]

Any help would be appriciated. I am new to the wood working scene although i have completed a few projects in the past I have never done one like what i am wanting to undertake. I have bought a set of plans for a toolbox I would like to build but I am struggling to workout the cutting list. (Ill copy and paste below) could anyone explain to me how they worked out the board feet to be what they are please.

Qty Description Thickness Width Length
1 Bottom 3/4 in. 12-1/2 in. 23-1/8 in.
2 Side 3/4 in. 12-1/2 in. 12-1/4 in.
1 Upper panel front 3/4 in. 5-1/2 in. 23-1/8 in.
1 Upper panel rear 3/4 in. 5-3/8 in. 23-1/8 in.
1 Back 3/4 in. 6 in. 22 in.
1 Drawer divider 5/8 in. 11-5/8 in. 22 in.
1 Fixed shelf 5/8 in. 12-1/2 in. 23-1/8 in.
2 Lid stile 3/4 in. 1-3/4 in. 23-1/4 in.
2 Lid rail 3/4 in. 2-5/8 in. 12-5/8 in.
1 Center stile 3/4 in. 1-3/4 in. 9-3/4 in.
2 Panel 1/2 in. 9-3/4 in. 8-3/4 in.
1 Bottom drawer front 3/4 in. 2-3/4 in. 21-1/2 in.
1 Bottom drawer back 1/2 in. 2-1/4 in. 21-1/2 in.
2 Bottom drawer side 1/2 in. 2-3/4 in. 11-5/16 in.
1 Top drawer front 3/4 in. 2-1/4 in. 21-1/2 in.
1 Top drawer back 1/2 in. 1-3/4 in. 21-1/2 in.
2 Top drawer side 1/2 in. 2-1/4 in. 11-5/16 in.
2 Drawer bottom 3/8 in. 11-1/16 in. 21 in.
Drawer divider stock 1/4 in.
Total board feet 19*

 

[nev]

https://hardwoodstore.com/how-calculate-board-footage

 

[Jacob]

"board feet: is an American measure. It's quite handy however. A board foot is one square foot of material one inch thick
What they've probably done is assume all thicknesses are from 1" sawn timber and then simply added the area of 1" material needed and arrived at 19 square feet total. So if you are buying 6"x1" material you will need 19 x 2 linear feet = 38ft length at 6"x1"
So you need to know what widths of 1" are available from your woodyard, and work out what lengths you need to get the 19 square feet, plus a big allowance for waste.

Always buy much more than you think you need - if there's anything left over it goes to the next job.

 

[Chrispy]

Hello Gareth, your plans look/sound like they are American in origin, in which case they measure their timber in board feet IE. 1 square foot of 1" thick wood = 1 board foot so
19 board feet would = about 1.6 cubic feet. nothing to do with length.

as Jacob has beaten me to it!

 

[marcros]

what are you planning to build it from- hard or softwood? they are purchased differently, so rather than talk you through an example on the wrong one, i will wait for your answer.

i wouldnt worry about the board feet too much- in my opinion it is more an (US) cost estimating tool, rather than useful for working out what you need for the project.

 

[Brentingby]

The original tool box was made out of hardwood which is sold by the board foot over in the states. The board foot calculation in this case doesn't include much allowance for waste. It is only given as a reference so the builder can get a rough idea of the cost of materials. It isn't a number that you need to build the toolbox.

Enjoy building it. You'll have a nice toolbox when it is finished.

 

[GarethEllis]

Thankyou.

 

[Jacob]

what are you planning to build it from- hard or softwood? they are purchased differently, so rather than talk you through an example on the wrong one, i will wait for your answer.

i wouldnt worry about the board feet too much- in my opinion it is more an (US) cost estimating tool, rather than useful for working out what you need for the project.

Hard or soft it's made available sawn to inch sizes - occasionally down to 3/4" but always from 1" up with some 1/2" in between.
Which makes the board foot a very convenient measure for ordering.
You may get billed per cubic foot or cubic metre but they'll be able to tell you the price per linear foot for any particular thickness/width

 

[RobinBHM]

You may find it easier to re-write the cutting list in an easier to read form.

for example:

19 x 57
1 @ 640 (541)
2 @ 420 (332)

12 x 45
6 @ 750 (652
2@ 300 (225)

note: section size is finished size, thickness x width. finished cut length is in bracket, first length is for rough cut to length for ordering or for initial planing.

 

[Brentingby]

You may find it easier to re-write the cutting list in an easier to read form.

This might be helpful. The list is given by assembly. The parts for the box are given first, then the lid, and the drawers. Sorting by thickness, then width, and finally by length would be a good way to go but of course you don't want to cut all of the parts to the list before you start to build. For example, if the drawer divider position isn't exactly as the plans show, the heights of the drawers will need to be adjusted to match what you've already built.

 

[Jacob]

..... of course you don't want to cut all of the parts to the list before you start to build......

Oh yes you do.
You should have a rod drawn up and mark all the components from that, all mortices, tenons, rebates, everything, even hinge pockets and machine them all up before you start to join anything. Doing it piecemeal step by step is amateurish and inefficient.
About the only thing you'd do not from the rod, would be striding out DT pinholes with dividers and marking DT pins through the pinholes after you've cut them.

 

[Brentingby]

So Jacob, you would trust the materials list provided in the plan and just go ahead with cutting all the parts to size?

I do know that the dimensions given in that plan are correct, however it's not the case with all plans.

 

[GarethEllis]

what are you planning to build it from- hard or softwood? they are purchased differently, so rather than talk you through an example on the wrong one, i will wait for your answer.

i wouldnt worry about the board feet too much- in my opinion it is more an (US) cost estimating tool, rather than useful for working out what you need for the project.

I want to make it from a hardwood peferably but willing to use something else if price is too high.

 

[Jacob]

So Jacob, you would trust the materials list provided in the plan and just go ahead with cutting all the parts to size?

I do know that the dimensions given in that plan are correct, however it's not the case with all plans.

No.
I would draw up an accurate rod - effectively the final "working drawing", and take all the measurements from that by laying on the components and marking direct. Easy, quick, accurate, reduces errors, can be referred back to, etc etc.
I use lengths of white MFC then you can rub them out and re-use.
It's the brilliant traditional way, but along with a lot of things is probably largely forgotten!

PS not to be confused by the "story stick" which is another (but similar) thing .