How To Best Clean Old Chisels

[Ebzblue]

Hi, I've picked up some decent chisels, new old stock, which have some pitting and rust on them. Any ideas on how to clean them up. Thanks

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Out of many possible approaches I've used over the years for all things rusty and steel, I've recently discovered Garryflex abrasive block.

It's absolutely superb. No mess no meths, no fuss just rub rub rub....job done.

 

[Jacob]

Wipe over with oily rag. Then just sharpen and use. Linseed oil best as it leaves a permanent residue until polished off by use, and is good for wooden handles.
Don't get drawn in to the current obsession for crazy polishing and flattening faces - this is a complete waste of time. A bit of pitting is no problem and with use it'll disappear.

 

[Droogs]

i find vinegar to work really well at getting the rust off of tools, an overnight soak and then a quick rub over with a wahing up pad is all it usually takes

 

[Bigbud78]

i find vinegar to work really well at getting the rust off of tools, an overnight soak and then a quick rub over with a wahing up pad is all it usually takes

I recently picked up some old chisels, used a 2L water bottle and cut the top off. Filled with white vinegar up to the underside of the brass ferrules and left them to soak over night. Lovely and clean after some wire wool. It does change the colour of the steel though which will come up with some light sanding. Depends how you want them to look, I want to use them so just getting the rust off with minimum fuss was all I was bothered about.

 

[DTR]

Wipe over with oily rag. Then just sharpen and use. Linseed oil best as it leaves a permanent residue until polished off by use, and is good for wooden handles.

How well does linseed oil dry on metal surfaces? I've wondered about using it on other tools that don't get handled, my lathe for example.

 

[Racers]

Cillit bang works as well.

Pete

 

[Jacob]

Wipe over with oily rag. Then just sharpen and use. Linseed oil best as it leaves a permanent residue until polished off by use, and is good for wooden handles.

How well does linseed oil dry on metal surfaces? I've wondered about using it on other tools that don't get handled, my lathe for example.

I couldn't quantify but it hardens nicely and if the tool gets used it simply rubs off.
It's good on old rusty hand saws - you just brush it on and it stops all rust. Then as you use the saw the rust and the oil rub off and leave a polished surface (black -not shiny silver).

 

[Ebzblue]

Thanks to everyone that replied, a few ideas around so I better get cleaning.

 

[Corneel]

Wipe over with oily rag. Then just sharpen and use. Linseed oil best as it leaves a permanent residue until polished off by use, and is good for wooden handles.
Don't get drawn in to the current obsession for crazy polishing and flattening faces - this is a complete waste of time. A bit of pitting is no problem and with use it'll disappear.

Here I'm afraid we'll have to disagree. Rust pits at some time will reach the edge. And a pit in the back is a nick in the edge. And the pits are often surprisingly deep. They don't disappear with use. Unless they are very shallow and then it's no bother to remove them before taking the chisel into use. When I have a lot of pits close to the edge, and as usual combined with dubbed corners, I like to just get rid of it and grind the edge back beyond the damaged area, after which I grind the bevel anew.

 

[Jacob]

Wipe over with oily rag. Then just sharpen and use. Linseed oil best as it leaves a permanent residue until polished off by use, and is good for wooden handles.
Don't get drawn in to the current obsession for crazy polishing and flattening faces - this is a complete waste of time. A bit of pitting is no problem and with use it'll disappear.

Here I'm afraid we'll have to disagree. Rust pits at some time will reach the edge. And a pit in the back is a nick in the edge. And the pits are often surprisingly deep. They don't disappear with use. Unless they are very shallow and then it's no bother to remove them before taking the chisel into use. When I have a lot of pits close to the edge, and as usual combined with dubbed corners, I like to just get rid of it and grind the edge back beyond the damaged area, after which I grind the bevel anew.

They may disappear with use it all depends on the pits. If they reach the edge you can often just grind past a bit further, or put up with a nick until routine sharpenings have removed it. If they are so bad that you can't grind past them then perhaps bin the chisel - it'll probably be beyond face flattening by that stage.

 

[Biliphuster]

How well does linseed oil dry on metal surfaces? I've wondered about using it on other tools that don't get handled, my lathe for example.

Slower than on wood, if you are just using a thin coat from a rag it should harden in a week or so. I do clean the tool a bit before oiling the blade though, 2 minutes at most.

 

[Jacob]

..
Slower than on wood, if you are just using a thin coat from a rag it should harden in a week or so. ..

Day or two on wood, less on metal. Has to be thin - too thick and it takes a lot longer.

 

[JimB]

Wipe over with oily rag. Then just sharpen and use. Linseed oil best as it leaves a permanent residue until polished off by use, and is good for wooden handles.
Don't get drawn in to the current obsession for crazy polishing and flattening faces - this is a complete waste of time. A bit of pitting is no problem and with use it'll disappear.

Back in the day every tool had a thin coat of linseed including your hands. With wooden planes and wooden chisel handles it was an inescapable part of life. Probably why so many tools survived.

 

[Vann]

How well does linseed oil dry on metal surfaces? I've wondered about using it on other tools that don't get handled, my lathe for example.

I'm about to try it on an old US style blacksmiths drill (not quite a precision machine like your lathe). I rubbed a test piece with an oil (BLO) soaked rag and left it to dry. I couple of days later it was dry, but a bit too shiney, and probably a bit too thick. I think the idea is to wipe it back before it drys - apply plenty so it gets into all the pits and pores, then wipe it back so the exposed surfaces dry more quickly and don't look varnished.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[Jacob]

I think the idea is to wipe it on and forget about it. Or brush to get it into corners and pits etc. It's not a decorative finish it's just functional.