which turning chisels????

[nicko]

Posted this on the tool advice forum, but thought I might get some good advice here too.

Hi, I'm a newbie and this is my first post!
The story so far:
Second hand Charnwood W812 lathe
Rearrange garage to make space!!
Join this forum, read lots, buy Keith Rowley's book (as recommended buy many on here)
Yandles spring show on Friday, home with record power bench grinder and SC3 chuck
Fleabag today, won sorby deluxe sharpening jig.
Now I need some chisels and I'm away (loads of wood as I'm a tree surgeon!)

So what should I buy? Tempted by the sorby starter set, but would like to hear other's thoughts before I buy.

Thanks for looking

Nick

 

[finneyb]

A set gives you things you don't want or need - however HHS tools can be reground to those special tools you may need in the future. The alternative is to buy only what you need now eg a roughing gouge, a skew and a spindle gouge and parting tool - master spindle turning - its safer than bowl turning and then get your bowl gouge(s), scraper etc

Worth looking at Axminster as a comparison if you are going for a set. They do a set for £98 that would do the job http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-hs ... -tools-set

Brian

 

[CHJ]

.....
So what should I buy? Tempted by the sorby starter set, but would like to hear other's thoughts before I buy.

...

There's a short discussion thread on Basic Beginner tool list in the help sticky

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

Axminster "Perform" range are adequate starter tools IMHO. Please don't be tempted by the £5.99 type sets as seen on evilbay. They are worth slightly less than the selling price and, again IMHO, are bordering on dangerous in the wrong hands. I bought one of those sets to start with and managed to snap the spindle roughing gouge with my inept fumblings. Had I read the Rowley book before using them I would likely not have made the same mistake, but apart from that the steel is very soft and barely holds an edge long enough to walk from the grinder to the lathe.

From experience I would say always buy the best you can afford. Buying really cheap often means buying twice. (or thrice)
Annnnddddddd........ there are plenty of good used tools out there too. Some folk are compulsive tool buyers, and buy duplicates of tools to see which they prefer. Oh to have that luxury. People sometimes also buy full collections for one component then sell the rest on.

I've prolly just gone and caused even more confusion..... I'll err.....

 

[marcros]

The problem with used is the proliferation of carbon steel rather than hss. Whilst it would work, IMHO they are not ideal for beginners because they won't hold an edge the same as HSS and much more care needs to be taken when sharpening.

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

The problem with used is the proliferation of carbon steel rather than hss.

Ah, yes. Didn't think of that TBH. Carbon steel tools can be sharpened successfully, and can have a really good edge. The downside of course is they need sharpened much more frequently.
Defo a case of caveat emptor, unless the tools are clearly advertised as HSS

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Don't let Marcross put you off. The ones that really NEED to be HHS are bowl gouges and roughing gouges as they take so much more hammering. As long as you don't burn them grinding them carbon steel skews and spindle gouges can be kept sharper than HSS.
Remember you quench carbon steel, you don't quench HSS - and you quench before it blues, not after.

 

[SPSlick]

I started off with a set of Marples from a car boot fair and struggled a bit especially with sharpening. However I recently bought a set of carbide tools and have improved tremendously. I bought this set which I would recommend but others are available.
http://www.ukwoodcraftandcarbidechisels ... elset.html

 

[CHJ]

I started off with a set of Marples from a car boot fair and struggled a bit especially with sharpening. However I recently bought a set of carbide tools and have improved tremendously. I bought this set which I would recommend but others are available.
http://www.ukwoodcraftandcarbidechisels ... elset.html

Unfortunately these type of tools do not teach you to be a skilled wood turner.

• 
  1. Yes they will remove wood rapidly and in most instances with less risk.
  2. They don't need you to learn the skills of rubbing bevels and depth of cut control.
  3. They only impose very limited requirements on understanding sharpness of edges.
  4. They will never produce the tear free no pulled fibres finish in most woods that is achievable with a fine sharp sliced bevel rubbing cut.
  5. They are in most instances little more than a scraper, albeit a very sharp tough wear resistant scraper.

They are a very valuable addition to a turners arsenal, I use the equivalent to several of the above all the time but they will never teach a new turner to achieve the finesse of fine off the tool finishing in many circumstances and in my opinion are best left until at least basic cutting skills have been mastered so that a new starter knows the difference.

It's a bit like only ever using a machine or powered router and never learning to plane a piece of wood or cut a dovetail by hand, all possible to get away with but nowhere near the satisfaction of learning and knowing the skill difference.

 

[Normancb]

Most of my tools are Ashley Isles, but all of the well known manufacturers produce tools of good quality. When I started, there were no HSS tools around - turners have used high-carbon steel for generations and you just have to be careful in grinding them. I'd still go for HSS now as it takes one variable out.

One way of saving a few pounds is to buy unhandled tools. I started with a parting tool and a roughing gouge bought handled, them made all the handles for the rest of my tools myself. Making handles is good practice in basic spindle turning (bits of copper plumbing piper make excellent ferrules). I use light woods (ash or beech) for gouges, skews etc and dark wood for scrapers. Since all my tools have different handles I can pick the one I need very easily.

If you are mainly interested in spindle turning, a roughing gouge, a parting tool and a spindle gouge will get you a very long way. Add a skew chisel, a medium size bowl gouge and a heavy round-nosed scraper and you'll be well set up for quite a long time.

Turning is a lot like golf - people will always be willing to sell you a new tool (club) but practising with what you've got will give better results.

 

[marcros]

I use light woods (ash or beech) for gouges, skews etc and dark wood for scrapers. Since all my tools have different handles I can pick the one I need very easily.

I like this idea- I might adopt something similar myself.

If you are mainly interested in spindle turning, a roughing gouge, a parting tool and a spindle gouge will get you a very long way. Add a skew chisel, a medium size bowl gouge and a heavy round-nosed scraper and you'll be well set up for quite a long time.

So you may as well buy the starter set you initially suggested and you will be set up for quite a long time.

Turning is a lot like golf - people will always be willing to sell you a new tool (club) but practising with what you've got will give better results.

very true indeed.

 

[CHJ]

.....Turning is a lot like golf - people will always be willing to sell you a new tool (club) but practising with what you've got will give better results.

One of the best quotes this year in my book.

Until you truly understand that any problems are with the tool limitations and not your own understanding or handling proficiency you can only be chasing a never obtainable nirvana.

 

[nicko]

Thanks to all that responded to my question, I take on board all that has been said.
I'd like to get started, so waiting for the right 2nd hand tools to become available might take a while and with that in mind I think I'll order the sorby set from Yandles, unless anyone knows of a cheaper outlet.

I'll let you all know how I get on!

Thanks again. Nick