Apple tree slices

[KevM]

A couple of years ago my parents had an apple tree removed from their back garden, the tree had been in their back garden since they bought the place in the late '60s, it was a mature tree when they moved in. In the general run of things many might consider it a daft expenditure of effort, but it's a sentimental thing for my folks, it's where as kids we had our garden swing, hammock, gallows for younger brother...

The largest bits of it are currently sat in my shed awaiting attention, because of many factors it's been untouched since it was taken down and I've only just got hold of it. I'm aware of some of the general advice on painting the ends with PVA, paint etc, but it's maybe too late to be of much benefit?

I've got a couple of lengths ~10" diameter from which I'd like to prepare some 'slices' with my bandsaw, i.e. sections of the trunk in 1" to 2" thickness so that the growth rings are visible. There are visible checks and splits in the cut ends, I've no idea how deep these penetrate.

1. Is there a treatment/preparation that I can use to stop these slices from splitting?
2. Is there a treatment/preparation that I can use to stop these slices from warping?
3. Is there anything that can be done to accentuate the growth rings?
4. I'd also like to try to salvage sufficient to make a couple of small picture frames, so any advice welcome.

Thanks for any tips.

Kev

 

[custard]

Kevin, do you have any longer lengths? "Slices" are just a nightmare to deal with, but there are plenty of lovely items you could make from even quite small lengths.

Apple is a pretty useful timber, it's only the fact that it's hardly ever available in larger dimensions that's prevented it being more widely used. I've got some boards and they're similar to Swiss Pear in having a slightly pink hue, but they're quite a bit harder than Pear or Cherry which is why you occasionally see plane bodies in Apple.

I don't know where in Dorset you are, but I'm just over the border on the coast in Hampshire. I've got a Morso and spindle tooling for picture frame moulding, so if you need a hand send me a PM.

Good luck!

 

[Walney Col]

I cut a lot of my own wood for scroll sawing and there are several things you can to to ensure a decent drying process.
This is a slice of hawthorn around 30mm thick which I deliberately dried in the harshest conditions possible and those (resin-filled) cracks are what you'd get by default if you dry your slices indoors and don't take precautions.

1. Paint the end of the slices the minute you cut them. There's all manner of propriety formulas but anything that restricts the flow of moisture is good. Being a typical yorkshire lad (i.e. a scot with all the generosity squeezed out of him) I personally use left over ordinary vinyl washable emulsion paint and it's always worked for me.
2. Spend as long a time drying them out (indoors in as well ventilated but cool a place as possible) as your patience will stand. To avoid the cracks in the piece in the photo I'd expect to have to wait at least 6 weeks for a slice 30mm thick and quite possibly double that.
3. Get yourself a moisture meter (or a very accurate set of scales) and take readings weekly to determine the speed they're losing moisture and be prepared to move them elsewhere if the drying's going too quick or taking far too long. For items that're going in a place with central heating I like them to be around 8% moisture content before I cut them whereas for outside not-rained-on locations 15% would be plenty.
4. If at all possible leave the slices 1/2" thicker than needed so you can thickness them once they've finished warping.
5. End-grain as already mentioned can be a pipper to work with (dulls almost anything you try to cut it with) but I've also had quite a bit of success making things from home cut boards. The following wall hanging which still features maks left by the chain saw and a rather large "inclusion" is also hawthorn and about 3/8" thick and would have been chucked straight in the scrap bin otherwise.

Personally I'm of the opinion that (for what I make) cracks can actually be a desirable feature if stabilised with clear casting resin which can be coloured to enhance them. Being from the heart shaped trunk of a tree (hawthorn in this case) and very badly cracked I scrolled "Don't worry - I hugged it first" into the slice in the first photo and mounted a clock mechanism and they seem to make very well received gifts. (I don't sell anything I make, but I reckon I could if I was interested.)

Hope that gives you some food for thought. Sourcing your own timber is a fascinating pastime in it's own right and certainly makes for some unusual products.

Col.

 

[KevM]

Thanks for the tips chaps, I like the idea of using the casting resin, and I agree some cracks and splits can add character - I just don't want to produce something that will end up looking like a smashed Pringle!

I only wanted to take a couple of slices, Dad's particularly keen on seeing something with the growth rings in it. I'm hoping I should be able to do some rudimentary planking with some of the wood, for picture frames etc.

And thanks Custard for your very kind offer - I may yet take you up on it after I've planked and dried some of the wood and seen if I have sufficient ! I'm way across the other side of Dorset, proper Dorset where there are more cows than people!

Cheers, Kev