Traditional Stopped Chamfer Plane.

[swagman]

Attached are shows photo's of a stopped chamfer plane I am part way through completing.

Some basic measurements. The main body of the plane is 150mmL X 60mmH X 52mmW. The V formed on the sole is 32mmW at its base and is 16mmD.

The iron is 32mm wide and is bedded at 55 degree's.

The wood selected is Merbau.

I will post regular updates on the progress.

Refer to the following post to familiarize yourself with this type of traditional plane. the-woodie-slope-steepens-t60950-15.html

Stewie;

 

[Corneel]

Nice start Stewie

Some comments: Shouldn't there be a wedge somewhere? Mine doesn't have a wedge, the blade is attached with two screws, like you can see in that old thread.

Mine has a steel sole on the box. That's a good idea in fact because it is a fast wearing area.

How would this be helpfull for stopped chamfers? Wouldn't the box be in the way of finishing the stopped chamfer? I've got trouble a little trouble to wrap my head around the concept.

Mine is also bedded at an angle close to 55 degrees. That's very helpfull in fact to prevent tearout on the chamfer, which looks awfull of course.

 

[swagman]

Nice start Stewie

Some comments: Shouldn't there be a wedge somewhere? Mine doesn't have a wedge, the blade is attached with two screws, like you can see in that old thread.

Mine has a steel sole on the box. That's a good idea in fact because it is a fast wearing area.

How would this be helpfull for stopped chamfers? Wouldn't the box be in the way of finishing the stopped chamfer? I've got trouble a little trouble to wrap my head around the concept.

Mine is also bedded at an angle close to 55 degrees. That's very helpfull in fact to prevent tearout on the chamfer, which looks awfull of course.

Hi Corneel. The cavity for the wedge will be cut away on the bed side of the wooden stop. Its a slightly different approach to what you would normally see but it should work fine.

I am going to fit a brass sole to the bottom of the wooden stop. Its not as hard as the steel but it should suffice quite nicely.

I am also considering including a raised curved seat behind the back of the iron to make the plane more comfortable to grip. Will see how things pans out.

The descriptive "stopped chamfer plane" has little bearing on term "stopped chamfer". Its more referencing the adjustable wooden stop that's is used to control the depth of chamfer.

I had a good look at the chamfer plane you have. I like the idea of the slotted blade to blade to lock the blade in place; but I am not so sure on the non inclusion of the wedge. I would be a little concerned that the blade chattering under load.

Thanks for the feedback Corneel. The 1st build is going to be a little slow as I am having to fine tune and record the measurements for use again. I would have liked to own a milling machine to machine the slot on the side plate adjuster. Not to worry. I will have to use a slower alternate method.

 

[Corneel]

Yes I was surprised about my plane too, but it works allright, even in pretty hard wood like oak. Chamfers are quite narrow of course, which reduces the force on the blade.

 

[swagman]

Yes I was surprised about my plane too, but it works allright, even in pretty hard wood like oak. Chamfers are quite narrow of course, which reduces the force on the blade.

I can understand the reasoning behind not including the wedge. The wedge in front would stop immediate access to the tightening screws for the plane iron.

 

[swagman]

Yes I was surprised about my plane too, but it works allright, even in pretty hard wood like oak. Chamfers are quite narrow of course, which reduces the force on the blade.

The slide mortise fit I did for the wooden stop turned out rather good. :mrgreen:

 

[jimi43]

Nice one Stewie and it is refreshing that the old chamfer plane from that ancient thread should be reborn with your natural flare and create a new generation of that type of tool.

If it's anything like the quality and performance of the gorgeous toothing plane from the Swagman stable, then we're onto a winner here for sure! 8)

One suggestion about the stop sole. I thought brass at first and then it came to me that another option would be some lignum vitae inserts. The self lubricating nature of this fine wood would probably solve the problem and be rather classy.

What do you think?

Jimi

 

[Corneel]

I am not so sure about brass. i hear that it isn't very wear resistant. Steel would be better, maybe even wood is better, especially something like LV.

 

[swagman]

Nice one Stewie and it is refreshing that the old chamfer plane from that ancient thread should be reborn with your natural flare and create a new generation of that type of tool.

If it's anything like the quality and performance of the gorgeous toothing plane from the Swagman stable, then we're onto a winner here for sure! 8)

One suggestion about the stop sole. I thought brass at first and then it came to me that another option would be some lignum vitae inserts. The self lubricating nature of this fine wood would probably solve the problem and be rather classy.

What do you think?

Jimi

Hi Jimi. Not a bad idea but Lignum Vitae (Guaiacum officinale) is fairly hard top come by down here. Merbau is actually quite high on the yanka hardness scale at 1925. I could probably get away with leaving the bottom of the stop unchanged, but the brass plate would add a bit of extra visual appeal.

Not a bad idea though Jimi.

Stewie;


http://tinytimbers.com/janka.htm

 

[swagman]

I am not so sure about brass. i hear that it isn't very wear resistant. Steel would be better, maybe even wood is better, especially something like LV.

I have no idea what scale could be used to compare the hardness of brass surface with that of a wood yanka data base.

I would have naturally thought that the brass would have a surface hardness greater than most timbers needing chamfering.

Where's bugbear when you need him. (hammer)

Stewie;

 

[Corneel]

Maybe there is more to it then just hardness. But I'm starting to step way beyond my comfort zone here.

Anyway, steel is the real deal.

 

[jimi43]

Maybe there is more to it then just hardness. But I'm starting to step way beyond my comfort zone here.

Anyway, steel is the real deal.

Oh yes..I think that aesthetics are just as important as functionality here...particularly since we are dealing with bespoke tools which are primarily for working but an art form as a very close second.

I sincerely believe there is a link between emotion and skill when woodworking at this level.

If you are a professional in the true sense of the word then perhaps for day-to-day use then functionality and ease of use are of paramount importance.

But the work created by such wonderful tools are at the fine end of the spectrum and it is my firm belief that fine tools make fine work..all other elements (skill/experience etc.) being equal.

Stewie...if you wanted to go the LV route...and I sincerely think you should...then if you were to send me the rough dimensions of stock you will be needing I'll sort you out a bit and send it to you.

Obviously a bowling ball would cost more in postage than the benefit...but a I'm sure I can manage a few small bit.

Let me know

Cheers

Jimi

 

[swagman]

Maybe there is more to it then just hardness. But I'm starting to step way beyond my comfort zone here.

Anyway, steel is the real deal.

Oh yes..I think that aesthetics are just as important as functionality here...particularly since we are dealing with bespoke tools which are primarily for working but an art form as a very close second.

I sincerely believe there is a link between emotion and skill when woodworking at this level.

If you are a professional in the true sense of the word then perhaps for day-to-day use then functionality and ease of use are of paramount importance.

But the work created by such wonderful tools are at the fine end of the spectrum and it is my firm belief that fine tools make fine work..all other elements (skill/experience etc.) being equal.

Stewie...if you wanted to go the LV route...and I sincerely think you should...then if you were to send me the rough dimensions of stock you will be needing I'll sort you out a bit and send it to you.

Obviously a bowling ball would cost more in postage than the benefit...but a I'm sure I can manage a few small bit.

Let me know

Cheers

Jimi

Thanks Jimi. That's very kind of you to make the offer. I will keep it in mind. I have plenty of brass sheet in my workshop. I think from memory its 1.2mm gauge. I will trial that 1st and see how I go.

From a historical perspective their are a number of casing examples on early woodworking tools where a brass inlay has been used to protect the bare wood from wear abrasion. As an example, top of the line mortise and marking gauges from well respected makers were fitted with brass on the inside block face. Years after use they still look as though they have not suffered any wear.

lets see how things pan out.

regards; Stewie.

 

[bugbear]

I "suspect" Australia has some "quite hard" native woods too.

BugBear

 

[swagman]

I "suspect" Australia has some "quite hard" native woods too.

BugBear

Quite right bugbear. Down under we don't bother using axe heads. We just pick up a branch from the nearest Ironbark tree which is roughly 3- 4 foot in length; 2-3 inches in dia; and sharpen a cutting edge using an angle grinder. :mrgreen:

 

[jimi43]

I "suspect" Australia has some "quite hard" native woods too.

BugBear

Quite right bugbear. Down under we don't bother using axe heads. We just pick up a branch from the nearest Ironbark tree which is roughly 3- 4 foot in length; 2-3 inches in dia; and sharpen a cutting edge using an angle grinder. :mrgreen:

Ah!

But is it self lubricating!?

Jimi

 

[AndyT]

Great link Jim!
Truly an extraordinary material.

 

[swagman]

Made some reasonable progress the last 2 days.











Next up is to dress the sides of the plane body and then make and install the brass slide inlay for the height adjuster.

Stewie;

 

[jimi43]

Brings back some "head scratching" memories mate!

Just pulled out my old user made oak chamfer plane and there are wear marks on the end grain of the stop...

...but they are just that...marks. They are not grooves.

So clearly the supposed damage from use is not likely to be great...if at all.

Judging by the wear on the V part of the sole...this plane has had considerable use so any end grain will be ok....

And just to remind you how well these things work...

Have you thought about using an Australian coin as your washer...

I really liked that idea.

Having first hand experience of your fine work Stewie...I reckon this one is going to be a gem....

I took your toothing plane over to Douglas when we did the infill test...and he was pretty impressed. It's a lovely tool my friend...lovely!

Jimi

 

[swagman]

Thanks Jimi. A fair bit of deep thought went into the shaping of the wedge abutments on the wooden stop to prevent the bottom tangs from being seen from the underside sole of the plane.

From that I was then then able to create a stepped rebate that serves to guide the shavings into the mouth and throat of the plane. But still maintain tight contact between with the inside face of the stop to that of the bottom cutting edge of the iron.

I hear what your saying with the lack of wear pattern at the base of the stop.

Appreciate knowing that Douglas liked the Toothing Plane.

My current plan is to make 6 only of the stopped chamfer planes. ( boxed chamfer plane seems a better description to me.)
After that I will then switch to making some more toothing planes or do a couple of backsaws. Not sure in which order at this stage.

Being able to switch to either keeps me fresh, and pick up new ideas along the way.

I have just purchased some literature on marquetry and inlay work.

Might be a neat idea to add a very small amount of wooden inlay into the final presentation of my traditional planes.

Plenty of time available to broaden my knowledge base with a few more skills.

regards; Stewie.