Internal wall

[johnfarris]

Hi everyone
I would like to separate a large room in my house into 2 single rooms, what size timber would I need to build the wall? I would like to nail the timber together so what type of nail & size of nail would be best? The wall will have a frame & door in it.. What do you do when you come to corners in walls, do you put extra timbers in?

 

[hansonread]

75x50 CLS in suable lengths to suit ceiling height. Spaced at 600mm centres, with noggins 1200mm from the plate. Nailed together with 90mm straight nails, although id suggest using screws (100x5mm) unless you have a plasload nail gun.

Leave 815 x 2015 for door way in frame work for your door liner.

Use 12.5mm straight edge plasterboard if yo are planning on skimming the whole wall if not then use tapered edge if planning on just flush jointing it. 32mm coarse thread drywall screws for attaching plasterboard.

Use 75mm RS45 insulation between studs for sound deadening.

 

[johnfarris]

Thanks for the info
Unfortunately have not got a paslode & would prefer to nail than screw. Been googling for some 90mm nails & I noticed that the paslodes use 90mm x 3.1mm for framing were I can only find 90mm x 4mm wires for hand nailing, wouldn't a 4mm gauge wire split 75x50 CLS?

 

[hansonread]

Ok if you insist on nailing then be warned, splitting, bending and the fact than hand nailing stud makes a lot of noise and if the house is still lived in then it will shake things off of shelves, crack plaster etc. You still have to screw the header and plate to the floor and ceiling which will require buying a box of screws, so by nailing it together you are just adding an expense.

Honestly screwing it together is a lot quicker to if your a novice as re positioning and adjustments can be easily made.

If your really hell bent on nailing it, then 100x4 is fine, but don't say I didn't warn you.

 

[johnfarris]

Thanks for the warnings, but I am still a bit confused. Wouldnt a 100mm x 4mm wire guarentee splits especially when nailing near the ends of the timber. Are you saying that if your nail gun broke down you would screw only?. Before nail guns were around was studwork only screwed? Is screwing not going to take longer than nailing? I was planning on standing on the timber to keep it still while I hit the nails in with a framing hammer a technique you cannot use screwing.

Still not sure what to do when I come to the corner?

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Screwing pretty much took over from nailing as the power of battery operated drivers got to the stage where they were practical in a site situation (where time is money). (Until Paslode arrived that is) The advantage of screws apart from the noise and vibration issues already noted is versatility and precision. There is a fair bit of skill in driving a large nail in the direction you want it to go believe it or not. With modern screws and a half decent 18V driver it's a lot easier to not foul it up.

With nail guns, Paslode being the classic for framing, it's much more analogous to screwing because you can aim fairly carefully and there is no error related to wayward swings not hitting the nail square on. The nails are also ring shanks so have sort of similar holding properties to screws. If I were framing a wall tomorrow my paslode would be the natural first choice for speed and efficiency. Next would be screws and last would be to drag the old Estwing out.

For any weird bits, I would use screws so you have time to think through the fixing, aim carefully and unwind if it starts to go wrong. All of which are much more difficult with a hammer.

 

[hansonread]

I second bob.

To be honest, if my gun was out of action, id go buy another one, you soon recover the money in time saved, if that wasn't an option, id switch to screws, driven with a impact driver if on site and noise isn't an issue, if not a normal 18v cordless. If that wasn't an option, Id put the job off until I could use either of the above options. This coming from a man who has put up miles of stud before cordless nail guns were about by hand, so don't think its a lack of ability thing saying this.

Unless your a secret stud framing ninja with a hammer, in which case I'm sure you wouldn't be asking for advice, id stick to screws or buy a plasload.