WIP first kitchen. Hob/Oven Installation Question

[wcndave]

Whilst I wait for new workshop and can't do the sheet goods I have started on milling drawer parts.

Twelve drawers' worth of sides and backs/fronts are planed one side and edge. Eight bin bags of chips already.

The idea is to take them down to twenty mm thick and leave them in old house for a week.then mill to final size and quickly dovetail join them before they move.

I can't leave to acclimate in new house as they are working on it and the heating and airing systems are not running yet, so not representative.

Hope building drawers before carcasses works!

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[wcndave]

So I found some more pieces cut ready to plane, and counted again, and that made 13 drawers.

But I have 12, so I counted again, and counted the drawers in the plan, multiple times. I am going mad!

So I go through the stack looking at what I've written on the parts and ticking them off...

What're the last pieces at the bottom? Why, they are for a sink pull out, they are 28cm high. which won't go through planer. So I ripped down middle. So I have 13 sets of 4 parts...

](*,) ](*,) ](*,) ](*,) ](*,) ](*,)

(homer) (hammer)

 

[gregmcateer]

That's not a workshop, that's a gaming arcade!!

 

[wcndave]

Ah, yer, that was my project from last year. A real labour of love. From computing and graphics, to electronics, setting up sound responsive LED mood lighting on the back, pull out console (so we can play golf) - it took over a year, and it's still not finished!

Not much chance to play at the moment, and boy is it dusty!

 

[wcndave]

So, I left my half milled maple in bedroom to acclimatize somewhat, and have now got them ready to go.

I did one last test on the woodrat to check I knew what I was doing for the dovetail and I think I am ready to go.

Then I found that with my final planing the snipe was back!
Then my table saw won't cut 90 degrees anymore for the cross cutting.
Then I realised I needed to do the bottoms, which required laminating 8mm and 12mm ply.
Then I realised I needed to finish the insides, before I do the dovetails, as I won't be able to easily once assembled.

So, 2 weeks after I thought I was ready to cut, I was ready to cut!

Here are the boards just drying.

I have just completed a dry run of the glue up, having cut the dovetails on them.

I am going to need that cascamite! as I think it's 30 minutes per drawer for glue up and assembly.

And these are only the first 4 small drawers, another 8 big ones to go yet!

 

[Woodmonkey]

Keep it coming, I'm always interested in kitchen builds as it's on my list of things to do...

 

[wcndave]

A few things I noted then.

I am using blum movento under mount drawer guides. They support the bottom, are invisible, easy to install, four way adjustment to ensure even gap and are basically great. Plus full extension and soft closing.

However you do need to cut away a section of the front and back at the sides.

This I was going to do in a batch before assembly when I realised it would effectively cut off my last dovetail pin.

I will do after assembly but did mean that last pin will be purely decorative and possibly come off at some point.

Also cascamite says to only cost one surface. Most wood workers coat both. And given how it fits together I can't see it makes a difference.

Finally for now, doing drawers first actually makes sense.

I am batching then out with same settings on table saw and wood rat etc so they will be identical depth and width.

However as your shave something off the sides after construction, the exact width may vary from plan.

But I do know that they will all be the same. And the internal size of cabinets must be internal drawer width plus 42mm. Therefore I can cut the sheet goods so the drawers fit exactly.

Finally finally as a hobbyist with decent space and fairly decent tooling, but a full time job, don't underestimate how long it will take!

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[wcndave]

Whilst the first drawer cures (flip side of cascamite is the time to cure), I have three more drawers ready to go. Once you get the wood rat set up right it flies, although not without its flaws. A leigh jig might be better, but I can do other things with this so all good.

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[wcndave]

My sink pullout has high sides, so I needed to rip and rejoin some boards as they were too cupped.

I got these clamp thingies from Axminster a while ago and never really set them up, so I gave them a go. They're actually pretty good.

You do need (as often the case) to remember to put packing tape over your glue lines to prevent the cauls sticking to the glued up board.

I built a storable cutting table based on Tiddles I think, after seeing Steve's on his shop build thread.

Mine's pretty wobbly, but does the job - gave the router a good workout.

I also made all the drawer bottoms, about 2cm oversized for now.

Cardboard on my cutting table means I can use the track saw without damaging the surface (I am using some good plywood at the moment)

Then panels were then ready for glue up.
I also found that cutting the laminate with a track saw worked way better than scoring with knife, or using special shears.

And my custom laminate storage centre, as that stuff is really brittle...

Also got the router table fixed for cutting the drawer bottom groove - so I don't need to keep adjusting settings.

But there is a lot of chips on the floor - I am now about 2" taller in the shop.

Still, as they say, "Let the chips fall where they may"

:roll:

 

[wcndave]

The instruction manual for hob says to remove the transverse element for ventilation. Is it normal to remove the front stretcher (if this is what the manual means), as then the worktop is not supported and must take the weight of the hob. It's only 56 cm but still...

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