Pro edge jig setting

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Sheptonphil

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Hi all

Unpacked my new pro edge plus from Yandles today and spent a couple of hours playing. :lol: Re shaped and honed all the gouges and scrapers a treat. They were all done on a wet stone before so had to remove the hollow grind.

Came indoors and read the manual fully :roll: and it said the fingernail jig was factory set for optimum shape! Well, I've moved both settings, rake and depth. Does anyone know what number the jig is originally set at and the distance from the end of the straight shaft the collar was set at?

Can't figure out the settings for the Elsworth yet, even with the long grind jig.

Does everyone use the side belt guard? Everything is superb, but it takes longer to remove the guard and replace it than change the belt. Have left it off at present as I have been swapping between 60 and 120 zirconium re shaping all the gouges.

Skews to have a go at tomorrow.

Phil
 
Sounds like you do what most people do - move, re-set, adjust, then read the manual and realise you should have used a pen and paper first.. I'm sure we've all been there. Now, which way round did that bit go??

K
 
graduate_owner":nercui7w said:
Sounds like you do what most people do - move, re-set, adjust, then read the manual and realise you should have used a pen and paper first.. I'm sure we've all been there. Now, which way round did that bit go??

K
Absolutely! Manuals are for wimps and really a last resort when all else fails.

Phil
 
MMUK":3hvln422 said:
And in English? :lol:
Evidently there are optimum factory settings as supplied, but they don't get left alone when one just has to play. :oops:

Phil
 
Good luck with the skews!! Put the lowest grit belt you have on and make sure its fresh if there's a lot of metal to remove. I had to significantly reshape a skew the other day and it took a long time. It was considerably out of wack mind :)
 
Phil, what details exactly are you after ?
I brought a pro edge plus 10 days ago and have been to busy to open the box yet :)
 
Hi Graham

On the bowl gouge jig, the rake is set by aligning an arrow to a number. The pivot is numbered 1 to 6

The collar secured by an Allen screw is part way up the column.

I would like the number the arrow aligns to and the distance in mm from end of round column to bottom of collar please.

Cheers.

Phil

Ps I have worked out the settings for an Elsworth grind. It's 55mm protrusion, number 4 setting and collar 35mm from column end. Using the outermost hole on the long grind jig.
Thanks to Chas for the Tormek settings ( the sorby jig is identical) but the distances from jig to belt are different to jig to wet wheel, but gave me a start in the right direction.
 
Random Orbital Bob":3glkaoxk said:
Good luck with the skews!! Put the lowest grit belt you have on and make sure its fresh if there's a lot of metal to remove. I had to significantly reshape a skew the other day and it took a long time. It was considerably out of wack mind :)
It certainly took a little re shaping!

Once done though it comes off the 120 grit ready to use. I might try 240 another day, but I just wanted to get on and finish making something for the challenge. Impressed with it so far.

Phil
 
Hi Phil
The arrow is pointing to '3' - i.e., halfway between 2 and 4

stem length below collar is 58mm

Thanks for measurements for Elsworth, I will be wanting those.
 
Sheptonphil":208wlvq6 said:
Random Orbital Bob":208wlvq6 said:
Good luck with the skews!! Put the lowest grit belt you have on and make sure its fresh if there's a lot of metal to remove. I had to significantly reshape a skew the other day and it took a long time. It was considerably out of wack mind :)
It certainly took a little re shaping!

Once done though it comes off the 120 grit ready to use. I might try 240 another day, but I just wanted to get on and finish making something for the challenge. Impressed with it so far.

Phil

I'm a Tormek user and have just got the pro edge myself. I bought it specifically for shaping because that's too slow with the T7. Sharpening is excellent though. My experience is that once you have the shape right, sharpening is actually a doddle. I've done my badly out of true skew now and I've been tickling it with a 120 and it takes literally 2 passes and done. When I get some I will try the highest grit I can get away with because, like I say once the shape is there you only want to just tickle the very edge. Save metal, save time, save money. But getting the shape in the first place, I don't think there's any easy answer for large surface area tools like skews or planer knives.
 

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