Mounting an irrgular hone

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bugbear

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Does anyone have any old book instructions about mounting
an irregular hone more detailed than "excavate a matching
cavity and set in plaster of Paris" ?

BugBear
 
Hello,

I would say that should read, 'either excavate a matching cavity, or set in plaster of paris'

I would do the latter. Make a rectangular box so the hone is suitably proud above the top. Prop up underneath with wedges to level and pour in the Plaster of Paris.

Mike.
 
While I agree with Mike that this sounds simple, I have managed to find some harder instructions, from Cassell's Woodworking, ed Hasluck, 1912.

Make sure you don't use ordinary tub lead and get a hardened stone!

IMG_20170508_091431893_zpseedqj6lw.jpg


IMG_20170508_091950218_zpssbnmwbjv_edit_1494231855067_zpshi4v0rpb.jpg
 
Reading AndyT's quoted material carefully, it appears to recommend excavating to the perimeter shape of the stone,
but to the maximum depth throughout.

That's helpful.

My stone is so irregular, I don't think I'll bother with the routing!

BugBear
 
As an alternative to drilling, you can chisel the bulk of the waste.
 

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Love the article from the book.
Just need to get the following.
Dragon blood and sperm oil.
Nothing on Amazon.
 
I have no book, but have mounted hand cut japanese stones (all of the western-origin oddball stones were already mounted in plaster of paris).

The stones I've gotten, looking vertically down at the stone, the boxes followed the profile of the stone. Under the surface, the cavities were all regular shaped and filled with plaster.
 
Do you have plaster of Paris BB or were you already planning on using a homemade something-or-other in its place?
 
Andrewf":11eqgsm9 said:
Love the article from the book.
Just need to get the following.
Dragon blood and sperm oil.
Nothing on Amazon.
Sperm oil is widely available on the internet. But can I suggest instead thermoplastic pellets?
 
ED65":29r8zkrx said:
Do you have plaster of Paris BB or were you already planning on using a homemade something-or-other in its place?

I do indeed have plaster of Paris; anyone who dabbles in techniques from old books will regularly
find themselves needing animal glue, shellac, linseed oil, plaster or Paris, in various ways.

BugBear
 
Bod":3caxy487 said:
Plaster of Paris, would Polyfiller work?

Bod

Not so much. Plaster of Paris sets very quickly and in thicker sections, is more pourable and easier to fill voids with and sets rock hard. Polyfiller does not like being used in thick sections, you have to layer up, which is not convenient here. It might take an age to set if you tried to. It won't set as hard and won't pour as well. Plaster if Paris is not hard to obtain.

Mike.
 
Beuker":1t8qh60q said:
Get a piece of wood, put a load of caulk on it, put the stone on it, let it dry. Done.

No, no, no!

Expanding foam, use half a can and throw the stone at it!

:shock:

Pete
 
I like a lid on my stone boxes. That keeps the stone clean in a dusty shop. My washita still hasn't got a box, and I always seem to have to clean the stone before use.
 
Corneel":2rgdks3z said:
I like a lid on my stone boxes. That keeps the stone clean in a dusty shop. My washita still hasn't got a box, and I always seem to have to clean the stone before use.

Lay a paper towel over it (unless you've got a ton of fans going). No need to even throw away the paper towel, unless you get in a rush and use it to clean things while you're working.
 
bugbear":9alwa8nv said:
Corneel":9alwa8nv said:
Nice book Andy, but do they really use powdered lead? :shock:
Red Lead and White Lead - not the same!!

Both highly poisonous - the Good Old Days!

BugBear


If you have ever looked at the back panel or the underneath of an antique you'll often have seen a matt black coating, sometimes with patches of very dark red or orange. That's Red Lead that's been exposed to the sulphurous atmosphere of a home heated by an open coal fire. It was standard practise for at least two hundred years to coat all external, unpolished surfaces of quality furniture that way. I've seen some meticulously made, exact copies of antiques that used the same process and it looks pretty smart when first applied, I think it was supposed to guard against rot and woodworm.
 
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