Spraying lacquer recommendation

[deema]

Having just started to 'play' with my secondhand Fuji Q4 HVLP spray gun after only having had it for a year, I would appreciate any suggestions for the best spraying lacquer? Only mention the gun as I understand that the number of stages the compressor has determines what you can spray.

I must admit, I've been very apprehensive about using the spray gun, and as a consequence it's been sat on a shelf and I've always found an excuse why I should either roller or brush paint / finishes on.

Well yesterday I ran out of excuses, and plucked up the courage to give it a go. I got paint on to the item, but I've a lot to learn as my first effort wasn't very good. Terrible would be a better definition! It will be a while before I feel confident enough to spray a real job, but I'm now determined to persist with it.

 

[MikeJhn]

I also have the Fuji 4 HVLP and use Morrells pre-cat lacquer un thinned, can't remember the needle number at the moment will go into the workshop and have a look for you and post back on here.

Meanwhile this may be of interest: hvlp-investigation-t97331.html

And this: http://www.fujispray.com/FUJI%20Quick%2 ... 130822.pdf

Mike

EDIT: to add needle size, its a 1.5 or 4H for the older gun and a sort of gold colour.

 

[deema]

Brilliant
Thanks Mike

 

[RobinBHM]

Try doing some sprayouts on something flat and its best if the the surface is vertical

Ive found that a faced hardboard or melamine faced chipboard is great, the smooth surface allows you to see the quality of the wet coating.

A cheap practice set up is a roll of lining paper held so that you can wind a new section into view a bit like pulling down a roller blind.

as a starting set up, a 1.4 to 1.6 size tip should give you a decent finish for a clear interior lacquer.

if you get the tip size and lacquer viscocity right, that should get you close to a good fan pattern.

If the gun tip and airway is clean, then it should be possible to achieve a nice even fan pattern with the gun held 8" away from the surface.

Approach spraying methodically, ideally keep notes of your set up. use measuring cups and if you thin the paint do it be measuring, not just another 'dollop'

I would suggest as a novice to set up and practice spraying in the following order:

1. set the gun up, mix some paint maybe with 5% thinners, try some sprayouts just triggering the gun without moving it, so you can test to see if you get a nice even pattern

2. if you get a nice pattern, then try just spraying a horizontal stripe, keeping gun at 8" and moving steadily sideways.

See what the coating looks like, it should be an even wet coating. If its a dry mist, heavy orange peel or starting to run, adjust your settings or thin the paint as required.

Once you get something close to a good coating, keep an eye on it as it flashes off and see how it looks once dry -if its rough, orange peel etc adjust as required.

Im sure it wont be long before you can achieve a finish like a professional, the Fuji is certainly capable of achieving a great finish.

spraying can be a bit frustrating I must admit, its messy but high precision at the same time, with lots of variables.

 

[MikeJhn]

deema

Your welcome, Its a bit experimental with the settings of the gun, but if I can be of any further help let me know and I will try to help.

Just a thought, what gun do you have is it an XPT or XT or T7?

Mike

 

[MikeJhn]

deema

Spayed some more wardrobe doors today:

The Morrells Primer/Lacquer was three years old, but still managed to spray the Primer un-thinned, but the Lacquer had to be thinned by 20% to get a decent finish, still with the 1.5 needle, the air cap level with the nozzle and the paint control open six quarter turns, air valve on the hose open fully.

Mike

Forgot to mention the solids in the primer had settled to the bottom of the can, so it needed a really good stir, for good measure I gave the lacquer a good stir as well.

 

[deema]

Hi Mike

Thanks for the info, really appreciate it. I have a 1.5 needle, and will give up a go. I'm using gun wash to clean up the gun afterwards, and for me it seems rather more effort than uTube would suggest. I seem to need to take the entire gun apart every time to get it clean. Spraying through gun wash doesn't seem to clean it properly. Am I doing something wrong or just being too pedantic about cleanliness?

 

[MikeJhn]

You can't be to pedantic about internal gun cleanliness, I use second grade Thinners to whatever I am spraying to clean out the gun, if I am spraying on consecutive days, I don't clean it out, just close off the air valves so air can't get to the paint/pot, when eventually cleaning up, after spraying thinners through (into a waste sack) until its clear, I take out the needle and nozzle and lube them, clean the outside and then put the gun away until the next time.

Have to add cleaning the gun etc is the worst part of spraying, I tend to save up all that I want to spray so I have as much as I can in one hit, because I am spraying fairly large items there is an overnight waiting time before you can turn them over, therefore its days before I need to clean the gun.

And don't forget to filter the paint and thinners, filter into a measuring pot and then filter into the spray pot.

Mike