Aigner spindle moulder fence

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RobinBHM

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I'm thinking about buying a set of Aigner spindle moulder fences.

Ive been searching for reviews, but struggled to find any feedback at really.

If anybody here has used them, I would welcome any thoughts you may have.

The only wood machinist I know that has used them was very negative, saying the fingers were always getting in the way and the fingers often got bent during adjusting height or fence positioning. To me that sounds like poor setting up routine or rushing.

Ive been to see the fences in the fkesh and was impressed by their quality, certainly better than most fences that come with most spindles as standard even without the clever interlocking fingers etc.

As they are seriously expensive, Im reluctant to just buy them in case they turn out to be a gimmick.

Cheers Robin
 
A ply false fence that is broken through is IMP probably the safest way of doing things. The space around the cutters is never fully closed off any other way. The Aiger fence will pay for an awful lot of ply false fences.
 
Hello Robin, I use two Aigner spindle fences, the finger fence you mentioned and also the Aigner ring fence. I've worked in workshops that used a traditional, non-Aigner spindle fence, workshops with the full Aigner set up, and workshops with a hybrid where the Aigner finger fence was mated to a much older spindle moulder's own "sub fence" or chassis (the part that surrounds the cutter).

I was sufficiently impressed with the Aigner to get one for my own workshop, but I don't want to sound like a fan boy, there are definitely a few negatives.

-price, and it's not just the basic Aigner fence price, all the accessories are also pretty expensive for what they are
-weight, even with a dedicated spindle moulder you're frequently swapping between ring fence and the flat/finger fence, and the Aigner's a brute. As well as absolute weight it's also unwieldy, for example the Aigner in-feed and out-feed fences are free to float on the chassis, so they can easily flop down when you're lifting it, the fence tightening knobs just aren't man enough for the job, Aigner should really have fitted heavy Bristol levers.
-sometimes you want a traditional sacrificial fence even with the Aigner finger arrangement. Aigner have a clever dovetail arrangement which means you don't need to screw the sacrificial fence on (in fact you can't screw one on even if you wanted to), but the dovetails require the sacrificial fence to be at least 20mm thick, so all the 18mm MDF or ply scrap you find in every workshop is no good. Plus the resulting sacrificial fence is just a bit on the short side.
-the hybrid arrangement often loses a great deal of functionality, it's not Aigner's fault, but a really modern "chassis" arrangement (locating pins, dial in fence movements reading to 0.1mm, etc) just allows the Aigner finger fence to sing, where as without that it feels like half a solution
-the more open arrangement of the fingers versus a sacrificial fence means you need a beefy extraction set up, although it's no different to a standard sliding fence

On the positive side,

-I have a combination machine and the locating pin arrangement means if necessary I can remove the Aigner spindle fence and subsequently replace it without losing any settings. I hope to schedule work in the first place so that's not necessary, but a few times a year that feature always saves my bacon.
-the fingers work really well, IMO you'd have to be a bit ham fisted to bend them, they genuinely add to safety, quality, and work great with a power feed
-there's a half thickness finger at the base which is really useful, an MDF sacrificial fence can't really provide support in this area as it would just break off, and often you just need a reliable 5mm ledge along the bottom for the workpiece to ride against, for stuff like panelling with an above workpiece cutter block it's excellent
-as well as the fingers there's a little pin that can fold out to give added out-feed support where for example you've machined a rebate away. I've often glued bits of wood onto a traditional sacrificial out-feed fence to do the same job, but that feels very clunky in comparison to the Aigner

If you've got any specific questions or want photos of particular aspects just shout

Good luck!
 
Hi Custard,

Many thanks indeed for your post which is hugely informative.

I think I need to compile a list of what are the most common setups that are used.

Most of the work is joinery setups:

door, sash profiling

window frame profiling

Sash external rebating (stotmproofing)

Cills, windowboards, head drips,

Quite a few setups are using window tooling that are full edge profiling, which the aigner fingers wont be of help.

Some operations, such as fielded panels would certainly benefit from using the bottom slim finger.

The rebate support finger seems good, sometimes we do heritage sashes with glazing bars that need supporting.

Im not concerned about the issue of the fences flopping, as the spindle would not be used for ring fence work.

The point about dial in fences with a chassis type arrangement is interesting as Ive just invested in an SCM machine that has just that with electric fence control.

I suppose one concern I have, is how fool proof the fences are, considering that it will be staff not me using them.

The aigner fence does seem a worthwhile investment. I think it could improve both quality of finish and reduce setup time, Im considering buying the Aigner fence and a variable speed power feed.
 
ColeyS1":3k001tu2 said:
Do you see the thread about the Axminster version?

Coley

I did see the axminster version, certainly worth investigating at 10% of the aigners, but with serious limitations.
 
deema":1kxw9tgi said:
A ply false fence that is broken through is IMP probably the safest way of doing things. The space around the cutters is never fully closed off any other way. The Aiger fence will pay for an awful lot of ply false fences.

Certainly a false fence is the safest method and recommended by the HSE, however, fitting a false fence for each operation in a busy joinery shop is not practical in a modern joinery shop, where 20 or 30 setups may happen in a day. The time taken fitting a false fence each operation would cost a great deal in a week and not possible with a programmabke machine.
 
If my spindle setup caught fire, first thing I would get would be the spindle and roller feed, very shortly followed by the aigner fence. Now I've had chance to use it for many years, I really really wouldn't want to be without it ! The only way the fingers could get broken is if you're a complete numpty. I'll echo the comment about it being a heavy piece of kit, but I think it's weight is more a sign of its quality !!
I can remove the fence on my own for when I need the ring fence (and I've got a bad back) but there is a simple method I use. Flip all the fingers around so the fences are both tied together. Tip the fence unit up so the face of the fences are flat with the table. Then lift/slide onto a trolley that's nearby.
The only noticeable damage I've done to mine, is a small scuff on the front of the fence. I forgot to lock the roller feed once (the bit to angle the wheels tapered to the fence) and the wheels turned and made a small scuff. Cosmetic damage only- otherwise it's as good as the day I bought it [WINKING FACE]
The price will hurt for a while, but I don't think it'd take long for you to start seeing it's benifits!

Coley
 
Hello Coley, when you use a sacrificial fence on the Aigner have you come up with any novel solution for the 20mm+ requirement to fit in the dovetail tracks?
 
I've never really felt the need to use a sacrificial fence since I've had the aigner. The rebate kicker finger type things sort out any chance of the wood tipping.
Do you completely remove the finger section part? Is that the bit you mean ?
The one time I do completely remove the aigner fence is for doing stop champfers on spindles. I only do that, so I can clamp length stops on a long false fence, to start and stop the champfers.


Coley
 
ColeyS1":2mkdzt2x said:
If my spindle setup caught fire, first thing I would get would be the spindle and roller feed, very shortly followed by the aigner fence. Now I've had chance to use it for many years, I really really wouldn't want to be without it ! The only way the fingers could get broken is if you're a complete numpty. I'll echo the comment about it being a heavy piece of kit, but I think it's weight is more a sign of its quality !!
I can remove the fence on my own for when I need the ring fence (and I've got a bad back) but there is a simple method I use. Flip all the fingers around so the fences are both tied together. Tip the fence unit up so the face of the fences are flat with the table. Then lift/slide onto a trolley that's nearby.
The only noticeable damage I've done to mine, is a small scuff on the front of the fence. I forgot to lock the roller feed once (the bit to angle the wheels tapered to the fence) and the wheels turned and made a small scuff. Cosmetic damage only- otherwise it's as good as the day I bought it [WINKING FACE]
The price will hurt for a while, but I don't think it'd take long for you to start seeing it's benifits!

Coley

Hi Coley, thanks for the feedback.

I like the idea that it possible to slide the fences in and out to suit cutter diameter, but the flick over the fingers, which will click in place wherever the outfeed fence is (if I am understanding the fence correctly).
 
ColeyS1":2z3w65bk said:
I've never really felt the need to use a sacrificial fence since I've had the aigner. The rebate kicker finger type things sort out any chance of the wood tipping.
Do you completely remove the finger section part? Is that the bit you mean ?
The one time I do completely remove the aigner fence is for doing stop champfers on spindles. I only do that, so I can clamp length stops on a long false fence, to start and stop the champfers.


Coley

I think Aigner have fence extensions which can do stopped work. Not cheap I imagine!
 
ColeyS1":2od1lgpw said:
Do you completely remove the finger section part? Is that the bit you mean ?
Coley

Yes, that's the bit. You wind up the two finger sections right to the top and they just lift out, leaving the dovetailed tracks at the ends exposed. You can then slot in a pre-cut sacrificial fence with a 15-20 degree bevel on the ends to mate with the dovetail tracks, pull the two halves of the fence together tight to grip the sacrificial fence (I normally stick a Bessey on to make sure they're gripping tight), then lock-off the two fences and you're good to go.

For your stopped chamfer application you could use one of these sacrificial fences as a sub fence, and have a longer sacrificial fence permanently mounted on the front of it, then it would be all set to load onto the Aigner fence at a moment's notice with almost no set-up time.
 
custard":nefwm9bh said:
ColeyS1":nefwm9bh said:
Do you completely remove the finger section part? Is that the bit you mean ?
Coley

Yes, that's the bit. You wind up the two finger sections right to the top and they just lift out, leaving the dovetailed tracks at the ends exposed. You can then slot in a pre-cut sacrificial fence with a 15-20 degree bevel on the ends to mate with the dovetail tracks, pull the two halves of the fence together tight to grip the sacrificial fence (I normally stick a Bessey on to make sure they're gripping tight), then lock-off the two fences and you're good to go.

For your stopped chamfer application you could use one of these sacrificial fences as a sub fence, and have a longer sacrificial fence permanently mounted on the front of it, then it would be all set to load onto the Aigner fence at a moment's notice with almost no set-up time.
Wowsers !!! I like that quickloading idea. Going over the shop now to take the fence to bits- not sure I've ever fully removed the finger section completely. Thanks Custard

Coley
 
I wonder if my fence is slightly different to yours..
2855c0cf1d477960202fe931803ee7e5.jpg

It's looks like the finger section is 18 mm thick.
4608c5ac66da4d54a4074bce1a806d85.jpg

Just need to get a job that'll benifit from a dovetailed insert.
Thanks
Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
Hello Coley,

my bad, the dovetail slide isn't 20mm. Although neither is it 18mm, it's actually 18.5mm. Which seems such an odd dimension that I checked in the manual which confirmed it.

That got me thinking. I'd originally assumed that Aigner thought 18mm MDF wasn't thick enough to be held tight without bowing, so by using a dimension of 18.5mm they were forcing the operator to use 25mm MDF or Ply. But giving it some more thought after your comments I realise I was wrong. What Aigner are actually doing is saying you can use any of the following,

1. 25mm MDF or Ply as a fairly short sacrificial fence
2. !8mm MDF or Ply as a sub sacrificial fence, with a longer secondary sacrificial fence attached to that
3. A longer sacrificial fence of almost any thickness with 18mm "cleats" attached (with the 15-20mm bevel worked into these cleats), the Aigner fence then grips these cleats in the dovetail slides.

It's obvious now, but I've spent four or five years cursing Aigner every time I had to specially order 25mm MDF!
 
I think I may have tried removing the fingers before- didn't realise it just pulled off when at maximum height lol.
Sounds like a cereal box might be just enough to be able to use 18 mm mdf ? Damp course is probably a bit thick ?
Any other tips for the fence [WINKING FACE]

Coley
 
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