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PostPosted: 20 Aug 2014, 09:12 
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Old Tool Revival

Old tool cleaning part 1 - use of wax
Old tool cleaning part 2 - rust removal with abrasives
Old tool cleaning part 3 - paint removal with turps
Old tool cleaning part 4 - general cleaning with reviver

Rust removal with a glass fibre brush

Saw refurbishment
By Bluekingfisher: Comprehensive restoration of two dovetail back saws

By Deema Restoration and re-teething of a 99p saw

Plane restoration
By Sploo: How to make new rear handles/totes for hand planes
A long discussion centred on the conservative restoration of a Stanley No 8 by Memzey: http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/tool-restoration-how-far-should-we-go-t94935.html

Making as new again
By Custard: Cleaning brass when knurled or shaped

Please add a reply for any new hand tool renovation tips or threads posted on this site or elsewhere which you think deserve a place here.

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Last edited by AndyT on 11 Sep 2017, 11:34, edited 8 times in total.

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PostPosted: 30 Mar 2015, 23:08 
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Having seen the success of citric acid and vinegar as rust remover I was eager to try it out. As I'm making a copy of a neglected Mathieson jack plane both the iron and cap iron has rust that needed to be removed. Anyone planning rut removal should think carefully before they start as potentially well meant "restoration" could detract from the tool value. I found the results to be very good. It prevented too much elbow grease and dust. Using stuff you can find in the kitchen cupboards means it's very accessible. Here's how I got on with some before and after photos at the end. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGtgEAEtpxM


Last edited by G S Haydon on 31 Mar 2015, 16:32, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 31 Mar 2015, 06:52 
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G S Haydon wrote:
Andy, not sure if it's worthy but here is how I got on with lemon juice and vinegar as a rust remover https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGtgEAEtpxM


I'm sure it's worthy, but I would like some kind of summary/synopsis before watching a video.

(I also hate the new emphasis on video over text on the BBC news web site, but that's by-the-by)

BugBear

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PostPosted: 31 Mar 2015, 08:05 
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I'm in the middle of restoring a 17 year old Woodfast Lathe. A real beauty too. This had rusty beds and other components. I bought Garryflex blocks for the first time and found them to be absolutely superb for rust removal. No mess, no WD40, no slurry, just rub and go.

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PostPosted: 31 Mar 2015, 10:16 
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No worries BB and a fair comment :D , will add a description later this evening.


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PostPosted: 07 Apr 2015, 14:59 
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I am big believer in molasses for rust removal and unlike electrolysis it does not work harden the metal.

I have used the stuff for many years to derust sometimes extremely rusted tools of all sizes I have even done engine blocks in it, a lathe body and a light truck chassis in a tank made from timber and plastic sheet.

It is not fast though heavily rusted components can take 2 weeks to do but the result is amazing.

It is a bit messy but it washes away in water.

I buy the molasses from a stock feed company it is commonly used as a horse feed supplement do not use the stuff sold in Morrisions etc as they take out the sulphur.

Mixed 1pt molasses to 7 parts water (or weaker if you like) emerse the item in the stuff and leave.

it is cheap gentle and very effective.

Dave


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PostPosted: 07 Apr 2015, 16:01 
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I tried restoring some planes using white vinegar - it worked fantastically (unfortunately partly disolving some aluminium knobs!), and I wiped a bit of 3-in-1 oil over to stop them from rusting. I put them back on the shelf, and now, a few months later, they are more rusty than they were at the start!

Any advice on preventing rust?

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PostPosted: 07 Apr 2015, 20:44 
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kdampney wrote:
I tried restoring some planes using white vinegar - it worked fantastically (unfortunately partly disolving some aluminium knobs!), and I wiped a bit of 3-in-1 oil over to stop them from rusting. I put them back on the shelf, and now, a few months later, they are more rusty than they were at the start!

Any advice on preventing rust?


"A wipe" is not nearly enough fo a treatment with acid, which is what vinegar is (acetic acid).
Immediatly after taking the parts out of the acid you must rinse them with plenty of water and then literally drown them in oil and let them stay so for a couple hours.
In some cases I even warm the de-rusted parts in the kitchen oven - low temperature - before dipping them in oil, to make sure the oil acts more effectively (not my recipe, please note, I learnt that trick from some books on gunsmithing when I was involved in metalworking). Then, if you are not going to use them in the near future, wipe off the oil, dry the pieces, and coat them with neutral vaseline (no need to go to the chemist, the industrial kind used for for protecting lead battery terminals works very well)

I have even de-rusted steel pieces with hydrochloric acid (quite a bit stronger than vinegar) without having had any problems afterwards.
The problem with this method, as with any method involving acids, is the parts always become slightly pitted, or at least dulled to some degree - more with a stronger or undiluted acid, less witha week or diluted acid; time also plays a part. This may render this method inadvisable in some cases.


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PostPosted: 11 Apr 2015, 10:41 
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kdampney, sorry to hear the rust came back! I gave my attempts a good wiping down in baby oil, no rinsing in water. That coupled with use and and a wipe down now and again seems to have everything in check.


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PostPosted: 14 Apr 2015, 09:02 
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Found a great little slide show of a plane resto, very nice work :)

http://www.majorpanic.com/Slide_Show.htm


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PostPosted: 01 Jul 2015, 10:17 
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Has anyone used the Shield Technology on rust removal and prevention? http://www.shieldtechnology.co.uk

I bought their pre-clean and rust remover solution which I've not tried yet, but the reviews seems to be pretty good. Eats the rust and not the good metal etc etc type hype.

Their web site is a bit of a mess (or it was when I was last on it - I did email them to tell them it was a shambles), but their meaning is there and the background to how, what and where etc seems to be excellent.

The rust prevention paste is excellent and after a good buff, goes hard and doesn't attract the dust. My only mistake was to apply it after 'groping my tool' with sweaty or moist fingers! so I ended up with well preserved rusty finger prints a couple of days later.

I'll post some pre and post restoration photos using the Shield Technology as I have a few planes to clean up.

Jonny

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PostPosted: 13 Sep 2015, 21:15 
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JonnyW wrote:
Has anyone used the Shield Technology on rust removal and prevention? http://www.shieldtechnology.co.uk

I bought their pre-clean and rust remover solution which I've not tried yet, but the reviews seems to be pretty good. Eats the rust and not the good metal etc etc type hype.

Their web site is a bit of a mess (or it was when I was last on it - I did email them to tell them it was a shambles), but their meaning is there and the background to how, what and where etc seems to be excellent.

The rust prevention paste is excellent and after a good buff, goes hard and doesn't attract the dust. My only mistake was to apply it after 'groping my tool' with sweaty or moist fingers! so I ended up with well preserved rusty finger prints a couple of days later.

I'll post some pre and post restoration photos using the Shield Technology as I have a few planes to clean up.

Jonny


I inherited a lot of tools when a chum had to give up his workshop when his wife and he moved into a flat. Some he had acquired from somebody else and those were rusted solid.

I left them in Shield Technology's RESTORE for a week or so and all the parts that were rusted solid were freed.

I am very happy with the results.

I have no connection with Shield Technology other than being a satisfied customer

MC Black


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PostPosted: 23 Feb 2016, 18:11 
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I've used their rust removal gel and rest prevention liquid and it seems to work very well. The rust remover really takes rust off quickly and doesn't need very much at all to go a long way. The rust prevention liquid dries clear to the point you wouldn't know it was there but does so very rapidly so you need to get the lid back on the tin quickly! I applied it to the cast iron tables of my drill press and HCM a couple of weeks ago and so far no rust has returned at all. Not a jot. Had I left the tables as was or just applied furniture paste wax (which was my previous practice) I wouldn't have gone 5 days of the recent weather in my damp shed without major rust problems. I guess I'll have to see how well it holds up over time but the signs are promising so far.


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PostPosted: 26 Jan 2017, 19:53 
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GLFaria wrote:
"A wipe" is not nearly enough fo a treatment with acid, which is what vinegar is (acetic acid).
Immediatly after taking the parts out of the acid you must rinse them with plenty of water and then literally drown them in oil and let them stay so for a couple hours.

My father always do this way and has a good result. I'm going to try rust remover whether it works better.


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PostPosted: 17 Mar 2017, 16:06 
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Hi I am new to the site and would like some advise if possible ,I was left a toolbox full of fitted GTL tools they look like they have not been used the chisels still have the paper tip protectors etc but they have been sitting in a very damp basement and are all very rusty ,should I clean them up or should I leave them all dirty and rusty? as some people say cleaning them loses all their value I thought I would ask the experts .PS This is my first post so I hope it is Ok.


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