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The secret to cambering Bevel Up plane blades
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Wiley Horne
Woodworker


Joined: 11 Oct 2005
Posts: 137
Location: Glendora, CA 91741 USA

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 5:30 am Post subject: Reply with quote

Denis,

I'll write you offline, as I have unwisely jumped into the middle of Derek's story with an explanation--when he is infinitely more qualified than I to explain his results!

Wiley
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Derek Cohen (Perth, Oz)
Master Furnituremaker


Joined: 02 Mar 2005
Posts: 1039
Location: Perth, Australia

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 5:54 am Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Denis

Let me start by saying that your questions are good ones. Even more than good - they are important and must be asked and answered.

The problem centres around the grind (a term I prefer when removing metal rather than polishing it) a significant camber on a bevel up blade. And to take this the important next step, to do so on a BU blade with a high bevel face, such as 50 degrees.

It is contended generally that a BU blade requires a greater camber for the same effect than a BD blade. This is due to the geometry of the bed, 12 degrees for BU and 45 degrees for BD.

It is my contention that there is less metal to remove - which makes the process viable - on a BU blade with a 25 degree primary bevel and a 50 degree secondary (micro) bevel. The foundation for this argument is that a microbevel is .. well, micro .. and a camber on the full face of a 50 degree primary bevel has considerably greater volume.

I would suggest that you try cambering a full face 50 degree bevel by hand and, if you can, do the same with a 50 degree micro secondary bevel on 25 degree primary bevel , and report back your experience.

Keep in mind that we are talking about creating shavings for not just a smoother, but especially for a fore plane - so see the camber profile that is needed to do this. The camber resembles that of a scrub plane with a BD configuration.

Regards from Perth

Derek
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David C
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Joined: 05 Jun 2005
Posts: 938
Location: north devon

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 8:22 am Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy,

Thank you so much for that encouraging story!

David
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AHoman
Woodworker


Joined: 04 Nov 2006
Posts: 102
Location: Vermont, U.S.A.

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 12:17 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

David C wrote:
Andy,

Thank you so much for that encouraging story!


Now we will just have to see what Derek's influence will be on our woodworking program -- will it be bevel-up planes, or will we have the kids make their own dovetail markers? (Or will I have them read Viktor Frankl?)
-A.
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promhandicam
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Joined: 02 Jun 2006
Posts: 833
Location: Surrey

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 1:07 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

dchenard wrote:
Pardon me for being insistent, but the statement that one will remove more steel on a 50 degree bevel than on a 25 degree bevel just plain doesn't work. . . . Cheers, DC-C


Having read through the whole post, I think that, in your own ways both Derek and Denis are correct.

In the initial set up of converting a blade from straight to cambered then yes more steel has to be removed if you are grinding a 25 degree bevel as opposed to a 50 degree bevel. However once the basic shape has been produced, when it comes to sharpening, less steel will be removed if you add a secondary bevel onto a 25 degree primary bevel than if you are trying to hone the whole of a 50 degree face. Perhaps the following will illustrate what I'm trying to say:



The red lines indicate where the iron would be honed to get a 50 degree angle.

I hope this helps,

Steve
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Last edited by promhandicam on Fri Oct 12, 2007 4:50 pm; edited 2 times in total
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ivan
Furniture Maker


Joined: 04 Feb 2006
Posts: 786
Location: Devon

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 2:39 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

I understood Derek to mean "metal removed on the honing stone". If you have a 25 deg primary bevel you don't have to remove much steel to hone it - it's a microbevel, even if honed at 50 deg. If you grind at 50 deg, you then have to remove metal from the whole face of the bevel to hone it (also at 50 deg). This right?
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dchenard
Furniture Maker


Joined: 13 May 2006
Posts: 259
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 3:14 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

promhandicam wrote:


In the initial set up of converting a blade from straight to cambered then yes more steel has to be removed if you are grinding a 25 degree bevel as opposed to a 50 degree bevel. However once the basic shape has been produced, when it comes to sharpening, less steel will be removed if you add a secondary bevel onto a 25 degree primary bevel than if you are trying to hone the whole of a 50 degree face.

I hope this helps,

Steve


Totally agree. Might be the term selection (grinding/sharpening/honing) that created the confusion...

Blame it on a language difference, as neither Derek nor I have English as their first language Laughing

I'll get my coat now Mr. Green

DC-C
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Derek Cohen (Perth, Oz)
Master Furnituremaker


Joined: 02 Mar 2005
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Location: Perth, Australia

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 3:49 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Steve

Thank you for clarifying that point. It is amazing in how many ways the same sentence might be (mis)interpreted.

Here is what I originally wrote:

Quote:
Here it is in a nut-shell … grind the primary bevel on all plane blades to 25 degrees. Don’t try to camber any blade that is greater than this, such as one with a 38- or 50 degree primary bevel


Regards from Perth

Derek (who is indeed bilingual, but admits that he has no excuses as English is his first language)

The DC Club
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dchenard
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Joined: 13 May 2006
Posts: 259
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 4:54 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

promhandicam wrote:
dchenard wrote:
Pardon me for being insistent, but the statement that one will remove more steel on a 50 degree bevel than on a 25 degree bevel just plain doesn't work. . . . Cheers, DC-C


Having read through the hole post, I think that, in your own ways both Derek and Denis are correct.

In the initial set up of converting a blade from straight to cambered then yes more steel has to be removed if you are grinding a 25 degree bevel as opposed to a 50 degree bevel. However once the basic shape has been produced, when it comes to sharpening, less steel will be removed if you add a secondary bevel onto a 25 degree primary bevel than if you are trying to hone the whole of a 50 degree face. Perhaps the following will illustrate what I'm trying to say:



The red lines indicate where the iron would be honed to get a 50 degree angle.

I hope this helps,

Steve


Time for a mea culpa Embarassed

Looks indeed like I did not interpret Derek's statement properly. As exposed here by Steve, I do not have any argument.

Furthermore, and this is where I must admit being red-faced, in my example where one grinds a camber on the whole face of a 25 degree bevel iron versus the same on a 50 degree iron, I've maintained that the 25 degree iron will require more metal being removed in order to form the same camber. Thanks to Wiley, I must admit that I was wrong d'oh!

In fact, no matter what the bevel on the iron, grinding a camber on the whole bevel of an iron will result in the same amount of metal removed, no matter what the bevel angle.

The point that I neglected was that, as the bevel angle goes down, the "effetive thickness" of metal removed to produce a camber goes down at the same time that its length goes up. Think "long and thin" versus "short and fat".

Definitions:

BLT: blade thickness
BET: "effective thickness" of metal removed
BL : bevel length
C : camber of the blade
(theta): bevel angle of the iron

The equations go like this:

BL = BLT / sin (theta)

BET = C sin (theta)

The section of metal removed at any point over the width of the blade is a parallelogram in section, which area can be computed as a rectangle of length BL and thickness BET. Multiplying the two, we get:

Section = BL * BET = BLT * C

Notice that the angle of the equation get cancelled out, or in other words, the bevel angle has no bearing on the amount of metal being removed, only blade thickness and amount of camber matter.

Thanks to Wiley for clarifying this occasion5

DC
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ivan
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Joined: 04 Feb 2006
Posts: 786
Location: Devon

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 5:15 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

PS. I assume there's little advantage in using the JET cambering jig? This one looks a good deal more affordable....
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David C
Furniture Maker


Joined: 05 Jun 2005
Posts: 938
Location: north devon

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 9:23 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Ivan,

I have been using that New Jet jig, (which fits Tormek) and have written about it and camber in general, in the issue of F&C which is out about now.

It does a very good job on gentle and medium camber, may or may not do enough for a scrub plane, didn't have time to find out.

I like it a lot.

David Charlesworth


Last edited by David C on Sun Oct 14, 2007 8:39 am; edited 1 time in total
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ivan
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Joined: 04 Feb 2006
Posts: 786
Location: Devon

Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 10:54 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, David; I'll keep a lookout for the mag. but newsagents are a rare item in these 'ere parts.
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David C
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Joined: 05 Jun 2005
Posts: 938
Location: north devon

Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 8:40 am Post subject: Reply with quote

Ivan,

There is one at the bottom of Bideford high street!

Where are you?

David
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bugbear
Master Cabinetmaker


Joined: 16 Jul 2004
Posts: 3875
Location: North Suffolk

Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 8:53 am Post subject: Re: The secret to cambering Bevel Up plane blades Reply with quote

Derek Cohen (Perth, Oz) wrote:

The result is a cambered 25 degree primary bevel ….




And, yes Bugbear, the camber does indeed match the template! Look …





I never denied that it would; my point was, and remains, that the blade camber is generated by your skill and care, not the template.

None of which is to deny the demonstrable fact that your procedure generates the blade you desire.

BugBear
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Grinding, sharpening and polishing are really very interesting operations.
...William Henry Bragg
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David C
Furniture Maker


Joined: 05 Jun 2005
Posts: 938
Location: north devon

Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 7:49 am Post subject: Reply with quote

BB,

I was going to point out the same thing.

The skill required is to keep the long stick at the same angle.

A support at the top end of the stick would help to maintain consistent angle, would it not?

best wishes,
David
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