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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2015, 16:15 
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A taller vase was mentioned as a requirement by someone who must be obeyed, if this was to be constructed with minimal sections this meant that a set of staves long enough needed cutting on the bandsaw.
The resultant cleanup of adjoining surfaces and reasonable glue up lead to a rather short lived burst of euphoria when the realisation that holding the said assembly for safe machining was not going to be straightforward with existing chuck jaws etc.
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Driving the piece for initial cleanup was achieved by using 4 long studs in the Cole jaws , (can't use 8 studs on a 12 section cylinder if it's to run as true as possible) but the matter of supporting and centralising at the tailstock end needed the construction of a spreader adaptor to use with the rotating tailstock.
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This allows the centralising of the piece at the tailstock end and provides secure pressure against the driving chuck.
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Rough truing of the blank and subsequent forming of a tenon to enable mounting of the blank on a standard chuck for improved concentricity control and secure holding for hollowing.
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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2015, 16:16 
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Because the overhang will be significant whilst hollowing a substantial base fixing ring was turned with a recess to take my largest gripper jaws and a socket turned to take the spigot on the cylinder.
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The cylinder was glued in with cascamite, checking it was running true on the lathe whilst still wet.
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When cured, a small section on the end was rough turned to the neck shape envisioned and end prepared to take a chuck collar that if all goes well will also provide the material for the finishing collar.
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This can be seen being glued on and prepared with small chuck dovetail socket, also note the centre hole provided for support and subsequent alignment aid.
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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2015, 16:16 
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Using the tailstock for support the top neck portion was parted off.
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At this point note the various Crosses and Circles marked on the staves and chuck collar that may be seen in the images, these are to aid in the alignment of the staves in later re-assembly, with all the good will in the world it is most unlikely that all staves will end up exactly the same width. Remember to re-mark as material is removed.
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Then with light cuts the centre is bored out and the outer profile roughed, aiming to match the two profiles. As this is in effect an end grain piece as far as the hollowing is concerned I used a carbide cutter in plain boring mode , note the tape marker on the tool stem to avoid hitting the chuck jaws.
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The top edge prepared with alignment socket for contrasting collar.
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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2015, 16:16 
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And the collar piece prepared with tenon to match and the all important support and alignment centre hole and then glued on.
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Reverse mounting the neck piece on the prepared collar/support, the centre is hollowed out to match the outer profile and the base edge prepared for subsequent re-mounting.
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As said before, all hollowing is basically endgrain with interrupted cuts due to differing woods into the bargain, as a consequence all you get is sawdust not shavings.
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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2015, 16:17 
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Back to the main assembly and the top collar is trued up and socket prepared for the neck and a large holding hole prepared for subsequent reverse mounting for work on the base.
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Note:- I should have opened up collar mounting bore to match neck flare but was fixated on gripper jaw size rather than a custom jaw size, now have a delicate job of removing surplus when assembled.
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The main body was then carefully parted off from the work base.
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Reverse mounted on the collar hole, cleaned up and bore prepared for base fixing tenon.
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Base rough turned and combination tenon-socket formed to take main body.
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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2015, 16:17 
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Trial fit of components.
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And final glue up.
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Start of clean up.
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Open out neck and clean up inner neck joint areas.
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Sand and apply sealer to check for tooling marks.
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Do likewise with the main body.
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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2015, 16:17 
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Sort out some tailstock support to reduce accident risk whilst parting off.
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Part off as far as prudent and snap off.
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Fit wood jaws for reverse mounting to clean up base.
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Clean up base as far as possible and coat with sealer to check for tooling marks.
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Finally remove last centring pip with sanding disc mounted in chuck, and finish sealing.
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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2015, 16:18 
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Then a few minutes attention with the buffing mops and a smidgen of Microcrystalline wax.


Voila! 230mm High.
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Hope that little lot is of interest.

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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2015, 17:38 
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love it, superb grain thanks for the details.

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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2015, 19:03 
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That is lovely Chas and a great WIP to explain the turning =D> =D> =D>

More important did the client like it? :lol:

Regards Keith

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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2015, 19:10 
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Woodchips2 wrote:
...More important did the client like it? ..
It's been deemed worthy of collecting dust so presume it's considered OK.

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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2015, 19:10 
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Thank you for putting the time and effort into posting the process, it is much appreciated. I presume that it is English Walnut that you used with the ash.

What chuck did you use as I was looking at how the wooden jaws are fitted when reverse chucking

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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2015, 19:18 
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Dalboy wrote:
... I presume that it is English Walnut that you used with the ash

Not too sure on that score, it came from a furniture manufacturer as off-cuts and it varies from very pale to almost black dependant upon batch so may not be, the Ash came as sawn plank stock from Yandles.

The chuck with the wooden jaws is and Axy Precision, fitted with small Wood Jaw plates.

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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2015, 19:23 
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Superb Chas =D> =D> =D>


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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2015, 20:22 
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Wow. That's awesome..... Very nice


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