November Challenge - Submit Entries Here.

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nev

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The 2012 November Challenge is A Gavel and Sounding Block.

Definition of gavel
noun
a small hammer with which an auctioneer, a judge, or the chair of a meeting hits a surface to call for attention or order.


Our Judge for November will be Paul (thank you)

Must be New work for this Challenge

All components are to be lathe turned and should be made from a suitable wood and fit for purpose.

No specific minimum or maximum size but should be an appropriate usable size.

You are allowed to use glue or threads for the assembly of your entry.

Colouring / texturing / burning allowed

Any entry's that are outside the rules and requirements will not be judged

The Judges decision is final ( Any negative comments re judging must be via PM only and not on the open forum )

NO Critique or comments on any work until December Please, After the Judging and results.

Please state wood type if known, dimensions and a little about how you made it and what tools and finish you used ( this helps the judge )

Please post 3 images of your work / entry

1 showing the Gavel and block together ( close up of head on block)
1 showing the Gavel (in profile )
1 showing the Block

Image size please use image size 640 x 480 0.3 mp, same previous months

Entry’s to be uploaded from 10pm on 27th Nov up until 10pm on the 29th Nov. after this time the thread will be locked for Judging

Results will be given on or before 31 Nov


Roundup
 
Well we got into double figures, just :)

warning: long winded :shock:

MY entry for this month, made from sapele (my first choice oak having a secret crack through it!) and really my first bit of proper spindle turning with beads and coves etc.

Gavel size approx 10.5" in length incl, head ( 2.25" x 4") block 5" x .75"

Started with a 2.5" x 5" block between centres, roughed to round and a tenon on one end to fit 2" jaws. fitted in jaws and skewed to size. grooves and beads marked and cut to depth with thin parting tool, then attacked with small spindle gouge to create final shape including convex head/face. face nearest chuck half cut to size and shape. sanded to 600 , red and yellow brillo and waxed. parted off, reversed wrapped in tape and padding, clamped in jaws and 2nd face finished gently .

Large offcut of pine used to create a jam chuck for finished head to sit sideways in (reinforced with the aid of gaffa tape) so that the hole for handle could be drilled on the lathe, and ensure it was central.

Then handle turned between centres incl. 1" spigot to fit in head, using bigger spindle gouge. finished same as head.
A slot cut down length of spigot and a small wedge sat in the end, glue applied and handle inserted into head, the wedge being compressed by depth of hole and never to come out again! so its glued and jammed.

Used a glue chuck for mounting block, underside turned and finished with recess for chuck jaws. reversed, shaped and finished (bowl gouge)

The cove on the block is sized so that the outer edges of the gavel head sit in the groove to stop it sliding off when polished :)
Felt pad to be applied to base to stop it sliding around the desk or judges bench.
The knob on the end of the handle is to have a loop of posh cord attached so it can be hung up.
The vertical 'mark' on the edge of the block is in the grain. Honest 8)
I can confirm it works a treat for waking a dozing missus :twisted:
It'll probably end up sat on the shelf forever but i did enjoy the challenge of making it :) I almost feel like a proper turner now :mrgreen:

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I have made several of this design for some masters of ceremony's and retired chairman this one is made with African blackwood and Robinia

I began buy drilling out the 12mm hole in the head for the handle then turning the head between centers and created a 1/8" cut back in the top of both ends by gripping it in the long flat part of the O Donnell jaws on the flat part in the middle of the head which was protected with masking tape .

The shaft was turned between centers in two parts first I drilled an 8mm hole in one end into which I put the revolving center then I made a a 12mm shank on the end to fit in the head and created the design with a spindle gouge and a parting tool then I mounted the second part of the handle and created a long 8mm spigot on one end and the design in the same manner as the other half I then cut a slot on the spigot that had to fit into the head for a Robinia wedge .

Next I created the Block which was a thin slice of Blackwood which had what looked like a grub hole in it but I had to use it as it was all I had so I gripped it in some home made wooden jaws cleaned up the bottom and cut it to round till i reached the wood jaws I also created a concave to create more sound when it was struck then turned it round again in the wood jaws and finished the top with an undercut to a depth of 1/8" to house the center strike pad of Robinia.

That left 3 disk of Robinia to turn I done these by sticking the disk onto a bit of sacrificial wood with industrial double sided tape and cut them to the correct size and domed the top of them then I had to make the ring in the middle of the handle from a disk of robinia first I stuck it to the sacrificial bit of wood and drilled an 8mm hole in it and rounded it of then cut the wedge to tap into the end of the handle to expand it in the head I then assembled all of the components and fixed all the parts parts with 2 part epoxy resin each part was finished with sanding sealer and polish as I finished making them

I also made a stand with Oak and ebonized it with 000 wire wool and vinegar and I enjoyed every moment of making it thank you
 

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I did this project in 3 woods I picked up in different parts of Canada. Maple head from Quebec, Yew handle from Vancouver Island, and Green ash block from my yard. Head turned in the chuck and then reversed, handle turned between centers, and the block done on a screw in the chuck and then cole jaws to clean up and slightly dome the top. Head was drilled on the drill press and handle glued and fox wedged into it. I used spindle gouge, roughing gouge, skew and bowl gouge. Finished with spray lacquer and then buffed on the ONeway system. Gavel is 10-5/8" by 3-5/8" by 1-7/8" and block is 5" by 1-5/8".
Thanks to everyone involved in the challenge and all the entrants. Double digits!!!
 

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Here is my entry for this month.
Made from ripple sycamore and ebony.
The head has two ebony inserts glued into recesses with epoxy. The striking block and the end of the handle also have ebony inserts fixed likewise. The handle is glued into the head.
The sycamore parts are finished with melamine lacquer, the ebony parts with a light coat of "Organoil", just to bring out the colour.
Dimensions:
Block: 75mm diameter X 45mm tall.
Gavel: Length - 205mm head - 35mm diameter X 80mm tall.

Ian
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My entry for this month is made from Chestnut (block) and an unknown wood which I had laying around and had obviously forgotten to label. having searched for sizes and coming up with numerous variations I decided to go for one that was comfortable in the hand (mine in this instance). The Gavel measures 160mm x 70mm and the block is 110mm x 25mm with a 50mm insert of the same unknown wood.

All parts were finished on the lathe with sanding sealer and melamine and then buffed using the chestnut buffing system.

Tools used were a roughing gouge, 1/4 and 3/8 spindle gouge, 1" skew and a bowl gouge.
 

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Hi all,

Here is my entry. Made from Plane. The head and handle was turned between centers with a roughing gouge, 1/2" & 3/8" spindle gouges. The block was turned on a faceplate with a 1/2" gouge. All sanded 120 - 400. S/S and friction polish finished with a couple of coats of wax from the chestnit system.

Another very interesting challenge, and I think could see some more done as Christmas presents :shock: - Sorry Mum more tat from me :oops:
Good luck too all

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Here is my entry for November’s Challenge – a gavel and block.

I have used three different timbers for the project: sycamore for the head of the gavel, idigbo for the gavel handle and ash for the block.

The gavel parts were turned to a round between centres and then mounted in chuck jaws. The hole in the gavel head was made using a 15mm forstner bit in a drill press.

The block was turned by mounting on a faceplate ring to true up, a recess made at the bottom and the block reversed onto the chuck to turn the upper surfaces.

All parts were sanded from 120 to 400, cellulose sanding sealer applied and re-sanded at 400. The finish to each part is microcrystalline wax. The gavel parts were glued using Titebond II.

Dimensions: gavel head is 120mm by 55mm diameter, the handle is 195mm long. The block is 145mm overall diameter with a “target area” diameter of 90mm. It is 35mm in overall height.

Tools used were 3/8” spindle gouge, 3mm beading tool, thin parting tool, ½” bowl gouge, ½” round scraper.
 

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Not something which I had ever planned to turn so happy to be in the challenge just for a reason to make one...

I have a reasonable supply of Lignum Vitae so decided to go for that as it's hard and dense so suitable for hitting and for my design.
Most turning was done using scrapers and spindle gouges. Anyone who's turned much LV will know that scraping is by far the best method and can give a really smooth finish that hardly needs sanding.
I have a Sorby spiralling tool that hardly ever gets used so I too this as a chance for a play.

Started with the head - turned to outer dimension and then drilled. Spiralled it between centres and removed the edges of the spirals. Mounted it in long nose jaws protected by 2 halves of pvc pipe to turn off the ends.
Handle mounted between centres, turned and spiralled. Then reduced shank for handle insertion. Reversed and mounted in drill chuck so I could turn the end round. Split shank for mounting a wedge.
Block turned round and raised head put on - parallel sides but good enough for reverse turning later to remove chucking point. Reverse and mount in jaws leaving enough clearance to put a spiral on the edge. Then cleaned up the edges of the spiral and reverse mounted to remove chuking point and leave a flat base.
Button is ebony and is glued on to the wedge. Wedge and shaft glued in place after treating the hole and shaft to remove excess oils.

The button is finished with a blend of bees and carnauba wax. The rest has no finish and is just sanded to 1200 and then buffed and a single clean wheel - because of it's high oil content LV gives a good, long lasting shine just from sanding and finishes often don't adhere well.

Block is 105mm diameter x 20mm high
Gavel: head is 45mm diameter x 80mm long
handle is 23mm diameter x 190mm long




 
My effort as follows;

Gavel head and sounding block insert from un-named wood, I think possibly Cherry. Quite dense and takes a nice finish from the tool.
Gavel shaft either Sapele or Mahogany.
Gavel handle from Oak [ex- Bar stool leg]
Sounding block body Oak.

The gavel was turned to a snug fit then assembled with TB3 after finishing. Ditto the sounding block insert.
The sounding block has been hollowed to within 3mm of the striking insert for a better sound.
The shape of the block mirrors the shape of the head.
All finish Cellulose SS, polished between layers.
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