table saw sled 1 or 2 fences

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

smiley65

Established Member
Joined
2 May 2017
Messages
37
Reaction score
0
Location
weston super mare
im looking at making a table saw sled and have watched several vids on youtube on how to make one,the only thing im not to sure about is whether to have front and rear fence or just a rear fence that way i can keep blade gaurd on for the dust extraction any ideas?
 
If your sled runs in both mitre slots, you need a front and back fence to keep the two halves of the sled together (as the blade will cut it in half!).

If you're using only one mitre slot (more of a panel sled) then you only need one fence, usually at the front
 
the reason i was thinking of just one fence ie the one you push through on was to make it possible to keep blade guard on and dust extraction
 
There is another alternative - Mattroberts is correct that the front fence is required to keep it together, but with some ingenuity you could have both.

First you'll need to make the sled long enough to accomodate the blade AND the largest sized cuts you think you'll make REGULARLY, then make the front fence movable.

If it was me I'd use a pin hinge of some kind on one outer edge so the front face swings out the way to allow you to slot it into place on the blade, then swing the front fence back and lock it down.

If you make the fence an L shape with the horizontal at the back you could put some T nuts countersunk into the sled base underneath and use some short bolts (with homemade handles) to go through the flat part of the L and into the T nuts to lock the front fence down. Make sure once they are fully tight to grind off the excess so it doesn't catch the smooth surface.

If you are using a smaller table saw you could add longer stabilizers either side of the tablesaw surface to increase the capacity front to back - either stable hardwood or steel angle. I've seen this done on several smaller tablesaws to allow people to cut sheet material through it.

Either that or take the guard and extraction off the blade and incorporate it into the sled system - hmm... a central flat bar over where the blade cuts, made of perspex for visual clarity, a couple of wood beams attached to stiffen it then add those sort of draft excluder bristle things attched both sides and down to the sled to create a sort of "movable curtain barrier" so wood will slid in and out and they will move as you cut, but will help keep the sawdust inside that area and hook up a vaccum to a port in the perspex.

Won't be 100% but it'll get the worst of it I guess?

what do you think?
 
I see what you mean,i watched a video on youtube by (make something) he makes a sled with just the rear fence which is what i meant in my post sorry if not worded correctly,it seems a really good idea allowing guard and dust extraction to remain in place,although in his vid he doesnt keep those in place. His way of doing it seems good,take a look and see what you think?
 
He doesn't have the blade very high, so if you're not planning on using your max blade height, feel free to go for it. Personally, there have been quite a few occasions I've needed to cut at max height.

You may also find that the back fence hits your blade guard before the cut is complete - depends how far out your guard protrudes.

I still think a single slot sled is your best bet
 

Latest posts

Back
Top