Glynne
Established Member
Ok guys see if this makes sense starting with the lid...
Straightforward, just use what ever dimensions you think fits the wood. I used 10mm thick by 20mm wide for the surround and the blackwood was 2mm - so the surrounds came out as 2 of 98 x 22 x10 and 2 of 114 x 22 x10. although I made them slightly oversize so as I could adjust to the assembled box. I prepared the main surround (hornbeam in this case) and then glued the blackwood to it using normal Titebond 1. Once it is dried then you can finally dimension the blackwood as you'll have something to grip in the vice.
HINT - try and align the grain of the blackwood with that of the main surround so as you can clean up with a plane. Doing it with abrasive and blackwood is a mess (DAMHIK). Also make extra (as above) just in case....
I then routed a groove for the insert, obviously you choose the bit to suit the thickness of your insert. I think I used 4mm to allow for 2mm MDF + 2 veneer thickness ( ~ 0.7mm) and the glue. The insert certainly wasn't tight before I glued it.
The groove needs to be stopped at one end (the non joint end) so as it can't be seen. I'm happier leading onto a router bit rather than "dropping" the workpiece on so I have a stop block at the end. It doesn't matter which way you have the pattern on your design, you can just reference either from the front or back of your surround pieces.
I then drilled holes in the end of one piece and the side of the next.
. Obviously reference off the same point to make sure the holes align. I just use a very simple jig to hold the wood vertically against a stop and you can use that for the other piece. Lid assembled with dowels, I used 4mm but anything would do and insert glued in place again with Titebond 1.
Body - just 2 sets of contrasting timber. For this box it was 2 of 125 x 90 x 10 (sides) and 2 of 136 x 75 x 10 (front & back).
Assembled with cut down no. 0 biscuits, recesses cut on a router table. For the end grain I had a 4mm groover bit (Wealdens) and used the stops as a guide.
. For the other half of the joint you can use a straight / spiral bit with the workpiece flat on the table or a jig as I have (made on Peter Sefton's routing course).
. Thereafter it's just a groove in the bottom of the pieces (stopped for the sides) for the base. Box is assembled and glued so as the lid can be fitted to the box.
In terms of the position of the pivot, I've tried to attach some notes but please shout if these don't make sense.
. The difficult position is in relation to the back of the box as the pivot is "behind the back" as it were.
Hope this helps but home drawn plans available if needed.
Straightforward, just use what ever dimensions you think fits the wood. I used 10mm thick by 20mm wide for the surround and the blackwood was 2mm - so the surrounds came out as 2 of 98 x 22 x10 and 2 of 114 x 22 x10. although I made them slightly oversize so as I could adjust to the assembled box. I prepared the main surround (hornbeam in this case) and then glued the blackwood to it using normal Titebond 1. Once it is dried then you can finally dimension the blackwood as you'll have something to grip in the vice.
HINT - try and align the grain of the blackwood with that of the main surround so as you can clean up with a plane. Doing it with abrasive and blackwood is a mess (DAMHIK). Also make extra (as above) just in case....
I then routed a groove for the insert, obviously you choose the bit to suit the thickness of your insert. I think I used 4mm to allow for 2mm MDF + 2 veneer thickness ( ~ 0.7mm) and the glue. The insert certainly wasn't tight before I glued it.
Body - just 2 sets of contrasting timber. For this box it was 2 of 125 x 90 x 10 (sides) and 2 of 136 x 75 x 10 (front & back).
Assembled with cut down no. 0 biscuits, recesses cut on a router table. For the end grain I had a 4mm groover bit (Wealdens) and used the stops as a guide.
In terms of the position of the pivot, I've tried to attach some notes but please shout if these don't make sense.
Hope this helps but home drawn plans available if needed.
