"Wipe On Poly"

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Brian18741

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What's the UK equivalent of "wipe on poly" the yanks are always using on YouTube?

The few pieces I've made I've just finished with Danish oil but am I right in saying that Danish oil isn't a very durable finish suitable for the likes of a coffee table?

And do you apply a few coats of oil and then a coat of polyurethane on top or just a few coats of polyurethane and be done with it?

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Wipe-on or wiping varnish is just slightly diluted regular varnish Brian. So if you decant a bit into a jar and add some white spirit, you'll have made it yourself for less than you'd pay for it readymade in a tin. Common dilutions are from 25% to 50% although you can thin more or less than this if you like or as needed.

Brian18741":59chaneu said:
The few pieces I've made I've just finished with Danish oil but am I right in saying that Danish oil isn't a very durable finish suitable for the likes of a coffee table?
Poly should be noticeably more water-resistant and durable than any Danish oil but Danish oil can be used on a coffee table and provide the necessary protection.

Whether it's enough depends on a few things: which wood it's made from, whether coasters are used for sweaty glasses or hot mugs, how much knocking about the top might see, how many coats of Danish oil are applied. Also it very much depends on the Danish oil. There's no set formula for it so every make is different and some are much better than others.

Brian18741":59chaneu said:
And do you apply a few coats of oil and then a coat of polyurethane on top or just a few coats of polyurethane and be done with it?
You can oil first and then varnish, that's not uncommon these days. This would be oiling with boiled linseed oil or something like it, not Danish oil which isn't actually an oil but a blended finish (it's generally a mix of oil & varnish & white spirit).

Whether oiling first is worth it depends. On some woods it makes a difference in how much the grain is enhanced, or "popped", but on others there's no noticeable difference so it's very much not something to do all the time unless you don't mind the added day or two in finishing time.
 
Not poly but some years back I made a pine chest and used heavily diluted yacht varnish wiped on and it's been great. The mrs puts her morning tea on it with regular spills and it is still looking good some 20 years on. Cant be sure of the brand but I know I used to use Epithanes a lot. Tough enough for a coffee table IMO opinion but never tested with alcohol spills.
 
You MUST use oil based poly, usually clear gloss but thats to your taste. Water based will not mix.

I measure with a teaspoon into a disposable cup. For a large bandsaw box I use 4 teaspoons of poly to 3 of white spirit to start with. Almost like water. Wipe in well over the entire surface, then using a paper towel, scrub off all the excess and leave it to dry (at least overnight, depends on temperature)
If the surface then shows any imperfections sand again with very fine paper (I use 280 up to 400 grit).

next time reduce the white spirit and do it all over again. Usually I will do three coats, just depends on the wood being used.

This one had three;
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Thanks guys, some great information here! I'd consider myself an intermediate woodworker but I'm definitely still a novice when it comes to finishes and this really helps!

So would something like Ronseal Crystal Clear Varnish do? Just dilute with the desired amount of white spirits and wipe on? How can you tell if it's oil based?

Finally if it's water based (like Rustins, who obligingly tell you it's water based!) can I just cut with water to thin it down and achieve the same result?

I'd like something with a satin finish.

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Brian18741":1rks6kar said:
So would something like Ronseal Crystal Clear Varnish do? Just dilute with the desired amount of white spirits and wipe on? How can you tell if it's oil based?


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Looks like that one is water based. The giveaway is where it says to wash brushes in water.
 
^^^^ see what they tell you to clean brushes with, if it's oil based it'll be white spirit or turps substitute, if water based water. Incidentally if you thin paint or varnish use W.S. not turps substitute. W.S carries a BS number, turps sub doesn't - it can be anything, OK for washing brushes but that's all.
 

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