Pine blotching

[transatlantic]

So I tried the 'Pine Conditioner' approach of giving the wood a coat of sander sealer before the stain to prevent blotching. Whilst it most certainly did stop the blotching, it also gives a very false plasticy look to the piece. No character, too uniform. I also then tried thinning down the mix, with 50/50 and about 20/80. Same effect, it just doesn't look right

What I have found to work well though is to sand down to a very fine grit, like 400. Doesn't remove all the blotching, but makes a big difference. I'm not sure I'm going to go down that route though as I know that I won't be able to get the whole piece to a uniform 400 grit finish. It has lots of curves and routed pieces, which I won't be able to get as smooth and will blotch and stand out a mile, especially the end grain bits.

 

[Cordy]

Hi transatlantic
Do you mean 400 grit and no sealer at all; just stain then presumably a finish ?

I have these redwood boards that I would like to look like mahogany

as a novice wood-worker I'm not sure what route to take
Would something like THIS be OK ?

Also do I need to treat those knots ?

 

[transatlantic]

Yep, sand through to 400, no sealer. Stain and then finish. My only advice would be to do your own tests. You may find that the sealer produces the look you're going for. It just wasn't to my taste.

Not sure about the knots, I guess that's up to you. Id just leave them, but if you want a smooth finish, people usually use a tinted epoxy.

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

 

[transatlantic]

Just wanted to mention that I tried some of the Colron wood dye recently and it's much thicker than the Liberon stuff I was using, so not quite as much blotching. The only downside is that there are far fewer colour choices.

http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pro ... d-wood-dye

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

Have you tried mixing a dye with Danish oil? Colron seen to have stopped making their oil compatible dye, which I have used successfully, but Rustins still make one, and the Danish oil as well. Mix the oil and dye and test on some scrap for colour. The oil stops some dye penetration into end grain, which is what causes some of the blotching. Make as many coats as required to get the depth of colour required, then use plain Danish oil to finish, or let dry and overcoat in oil polyurethane, which Rustins also make. Or wax. Its quite a good solution for blotch prone pine.

Mike.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Hi transatlantic
Do you mean 400 grit and no sealer at all; just stain then presumably a finish ?

I have these redwood boards that I would like to look like mahogany

I always found when trying to work that dramatic a colour change that it paid to dye the wood then use a coloured finish as if there is a bit of wear and tear after manufacture it doesn't show anything like as badly with colour underneath the finish.

 

[transatlantic]

Hello,

Have you tried mixing a dye with Danish oil? Colron seen to have stopped making their oil compatible dye, which I have used successfully, but Rustins still make one, and the Danish oil as well. Mix the oil and dye and test on some scrap for colour. The oil stops some dye penetration into end grain, which is what causes some of the blotching. Make as many coats as required to get the depth of colour required, then use plain Danish oil to finish, or let dry and overcoat in oil polyurethane, which Rustins also make. Or wax. Its quite a good solution for blotch prone pine.

Mike.

I actually already have some coloured oils from Colron and in my experience, the first coat is pretty much the colour you're going to get. Subsequent coasts have a much lighter effect as the first coat of oil I assume is stopping the colour from penetrating. I must admit, I'm not a massive fan of mixing my own colours as there is the risk of not making enough and then you're buggered! I'll give it a shot though!

 

[Droogs]

@ Cordy
As Transatlantic says much better to use dye rather than stain. I am using Rustins Red mahogany dye at the mo for work in my bedroom. Although I'm using Euro White Oak the results have been pretty pleasing. I've been trying to match the mahogany of our "new" bed (1890's brazillian mahogany) and while not perfect it blends in well enough that SWMBO is very happy. If you can wait a day or so I'll try some on some redwood at the workshop and post the picks to let you see.

 

[Cordy]

Cheers Droogs

I will watch this space

 

[Droogs]

Will upload pics on Mon eve or Tues morning, my phone is knackered. Power plug thingy broken and being replaced