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You have to remember that we are comparing 3 different specs of lathes here : 16"/20"/24" & their respective bed lengths, so you have to compare like with like (hyphenated for clarity).
APTC 16-28VS, 96kg + legs (about 80kg) ;Killinger 1450, 110kg + legs 70kg
APTC 20-30VS, 280kg ;Maxi 21-37, 231kg
Jet 24-24, 365kg or 42-24, 395kg

One of the reasons the 1628VS is so popular is the shorter bed length. It's not often a hobbyist needs a 36" capacity & even rarer that a longer length couldn't be joined with a spigot.

In my opinion, even though I've not even seen one, the best value lathe looking at the specs is the Record Maxi @ £2000.
 
Hi
thanks to all once again for all the advice.
I am now favouring the maxi 1 but I am just a little concerned that it is only 1.5hp compared to the 2hp of the axi.

Thanks again
 
Turnright":1ku25zti said:
Hi
thanks to all once again for all the advice.
I am now favouring the maxi 1 but I am just a little concerned that it is only 1.5hp compared to the 2hp of the axi.

Thanks again

Hi Turnright
I'm with Robbo with regards to the Maxi1, it has 21" over the bed and 37" between centres, with the option of turning 30" diameter bowls with the out rigger, I wouldn't worry too much about 1/2hp less, for example I have a Jet 14-42 which has a 1hp motor and I have had 16" bowl blanks on it (turning off the bed) and it has never stalled from lack of power. The 16-28 does look a good lathe and has got good reviews, you need to ask yourself what you intend to turn. If it was me I would go for the larger capacity Maxi1
HTH
Andy
 
Turnright":1lqp3qep said:
Hi
thanks to all once again for all the advice.
I am now favouring the maxi 1 but I am just a little concerned that it is only 1.5hp compared to the 2hp of the axi.
Unless you intend to become a professional production turner, I wouldn't worry too much about the power.

I also have a 250w (1/3 HP) mini Draper lathe on which it is very easy to stop the motor, so you learn to temper your cuts to suit the circumstances.
Also the motor has less power the slower it goes so you also learn to work at top speed.
The only thing that it really struggles with is end grain boring with a Forstner bit which has to be done in stages.
 
This (and other threads) make much of quality of bearings. Is there really much difference in the bearings used in lathes > £1k? I can see a debate on plain / roller and std roller vs taper roller but I would think that even with average quality bearings, more difference in overall performance from distance between front / rear bearing in headstock than the actual bearing itself?

Anyone got any info / facts (vs opinion / conjecture!)

S
 
Hi Simon ... re Bearings ...

I'm trying to find facts ...not doing well and not an engineer so its trickier for me than some.

Short answer : I've got nowhere in two months (and research is one of my things)

Longer answer :

Obviously there are different shapes and differing quality of materials used.
I've tried asking a few manufacturers and a couple of retailers. They dont seem to want to say. That may be, possibly moreso with theretailers, because they dont know for sure. With the manufacturers it may be I've not yet spoken to the right folk.
There's good generic info generally available and Steinert are the only folk (so far) who are open about the nature of their bearings in some of their kit...particularly those with strong nose bearings (for specialist chucks)
I'm only looking at currently available machines ..otherwise, looking at the lathes.co.uk site I'd be doing it for the rest of my life!

If I ever make any real progress I'll post it. Dont hold your breath tho!
 

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