Help with a design idea/debate

[duggie235]

Hi All,

I'm not sure if this is in the right topic but here goes....

I'm building some industrial-looking tables similar to the attached image. I would like to use 3 lengths of untreated kiln dried c24 (9 x 2) biscuited together for the table top then i plan to age the top and coach screw it to a metal frame I've built from 25 x 50 mild steel rhs. The table top is 1200mm long x the width of the 3 lengths (roughly 675mm). As a finish I'll use some aging effects to rough up and soften the top then use combinations of wood dye and blowtorch for the colouring with some light sanding to fade the colour in places finishing with a hard wearing 2 part polyurethane.

I'm in a 'healthy' debate with my manager, he says c24 will be no good for the table top, I believe it will be spot on to get the attached finish.the budget on these tables is tight and this will keep them way within it but he wants to trail different lumber yards looking someone who will cut us the wood fresh with a rough sawn surface. His argument is that carcass timber quality isn't high enough and that I'll struggle to get straight enough lengths. Is this true?, I've never had problems in the past. He's flat out refusing to use it and I'm not sure why.

I welcome any feedback, thanks in advance!

 

[otter]

Who's budget is it? If it's his, let him get on with it and buy the wood himself. If it's your budget and you can't get c24 within that budget, tell him you can't, let him try and then sit smugly back.

 

[duggie235]

well its my job and his to stay within budget but hes overuling me on this and im not sure why. I want to use c24 because I think it would be spot on and I could get the above finish shown in the image. It would be way cheaper than the road hes going down with it, we've probably spent the money in wages trying to source some rough sawn 9 x 2.

Is c24 carcass timber no good for a table top like the above image??

 

[otter]

Sorry, I meant let him try and get the more expensive 9x2 fresh-cut stuff if he can.

 

[duggie235]

problem is he won't even try the c24, says if we can't get the 9 x 2 then we'll outsource the table top to another company, it's crazy because it seems really straight forward to me but he's adamant that the c24 is no good i wouldn't get the above finish

 

[RobinBHM]

Ive seen tables and benches made from C24 construction timber. They are in fashion in pubs, cafes, coffee bars etc.

There is nothing wrong with using such timber. The C24 you refer to is a stress grade not a type of timber.

Im not sure you should be biscuiting the top together, I would suggest screwing each board separately from underneath and butting the boards up tight. I would orientate each board so that the end grain shows a smiley face, not a scowl! That way when the board cups, which it will, you will get a convex shape not curling up of the board edges.

The timber you have used, is spruce, sometimes known as whitewood. If you choose to use more the more expensive redwood, you are not likely to find it in a local timber merchant in sawn form (its what is usually joinery grade and is usually only available locally planed up).

If you go to a softwood importer then you will find the sort of softwood your manager wants. You can buy 2 x 9 in sawn. For the rustic look you want, fifth grade would be fine or even sixth carcassing, rather than unsorted, which is mixed grades 1 to 4. However, the timber will have splits down the centre, resin pockets, knots and it will still shrink and move like the spruce albeit perhaps less as it may be kilned to a lower mc.

A company like this will have sawn redwood, although you might have to buy a container load!

http://www.servicetimber.com

 

[rafezetter]

This is probably far too late to be an answer for you but just in case, I read on another american forum where someone wanted that "off the mill" look with kerf marks in the wood and it was suggested they re run normal planed timber through their tablesaw, max height, using an older used blade, but put it through at a minimal angle (wider at the back) so that the teeth barely scuff the wood and make sure featherboards keep it tight to the top and guiderail. If possible also try to increase the feed rate.

This apparently will semi mimic that effect left on boards cut at a large mill in days gone by.

Another alternative is get an old non carbide blade, and add a tiny bit of set to just 1 tooth, again faster feed rate, which will scuff a board when it's fed through just barely kissing the blade side without having to add any angle.